Install trailing arm bolt
11-10-2008, 10:44 PM
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Falls Church Virginia
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dburgjohn, make sure TA hole is lined up use a punch from the outside. Push through bolt with needle nose (or the fishing line thing) inboard through TA. If it binds use a crowbar the angled end agains the bolt head and a hammer to tap it through. This is what I did but I will not mention my mistake with the shims. Hope this helps.
sgm
sgm
11-10-2008, 11:27 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
It usually takes 6 hands, both feet and quite a few bad words. the hole in the t/a can be off in 4 directions and the shims off in 6 more. And then on top of that, you can't get to the bolt to push it thru.
I used a long punch that I bent so it'd fit from the outside, got the outer shims and t/a sort of lined up, then put the inner shims in and got the bolt started thru them, then shook the beejeebers out of the whole thing and the bolt slid right in. I had painted everthing in sight with anti-seize too so it was really slick and gooey. I got both sides done- from my elbow to my hand I could have passed for the Tinman from OZ.
I used a long punch that I bent so it'd fit from the outside, got the outer shims and t/a sort of lined up, then put the inner shims in and got the bolt started thru them, then shook the beejeebers out of the whole thing and the bolt slid right in. I had painted everthing in sight with anti-seize too so it was really slick and gooey. I got both sides done- from my elbow to my hand I could have passed for the Tinman from OZ.
11-10-2008, 11:59 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-11-2008, 12:33 AM
#6
Race Director
I had a new trailing arm bolt that was too large in diameter to make it though the hole. I discovered this after spending an hour trying to push it through with the trailing arm in the car. I finally took the trailing arm out and tried to push the bolt through, and it took a tremendous amount of force to get it in. I tried the other new bolt and it was like butter. I used long handled needle nose pliers and my skinny then 17 year old step son. This method took about five minutes.
11-11-2008, 02:01 AM
#7
now that i think about it, i think i did that at the very end after i got the bolts in half way. if i remember correctly, i think i took the biggest vice grips i could find and clamped down on the head of the bolt, then snaked the whole thing up there and started it through the whole that way. i was still able to hit the vice grips to help force the bolt into the hole.
11-12-2008, 05:50 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
1st part
I now believe the driver's side TA bolt to be the first part that went on the assembly line. Everything else was put on on top of it. 
11-21-2008, 09:51 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2008
Location: Naperville Illinois
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I just started pulling apart my rear suspension, but I've read about what a pain the T/A bolt can be. After looking at the bolt, I bought a pair of these 15" locking pliers from my local Harbor Freight store. They sell 20-inchers on line. For 9 bucks, it's worth a shot...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97609
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97609
11-21-2008, 10:41 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
11-21-2008, 10:48 AM
#14
Race Director
It's been awhile since I did this but I was able to get the tip of the bolt started in the hole at an angle with my fingers. I then used a long screwdriver to push on the head until it lined up and would push through. This wouldn't have worked if I didn't have the trailing arm supported on a jack and pretty well lined up in advance. I used my other hand to keep the trailing arm stable on the jack because it wanted to twist. I made small adjustments in height and angle with the jack until the bolt slid into place. I did this solo and it actually worked very well. Good luck. 
11-21-2008, 12:38 PM
#15
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Droshki: you can do a search on the fishing line thing to read the 'how to', if you haven't already.
The method Les used to line up and draw the bolt through is what worked for me too. I had a pair of the stainless steel reproduction bolt kits and as TimAT suggested, painted liberally with anti-seize to help keep the steel bushing insert in the TA from rusting.
The stainless alone should avoid what most of us encounter when performing the disassembly of the TA from the frame with the hardened steel bolt GM used. I don't think I'm alone describing what a PIA they are/were to remove once rusted in.
Unless you have the convenience of a frame off restore, this job is not for the faint of heart, just one of perseverance. Good luck.
The method Les used to line up and draw the bolt through is what worked for me too. I had a pair of the stainless steel reproduction bolt kits and as TimAT suggested, painted liberally with anti-seize to help keep the steel bushing insert in the TA from rusting.
The stainless alone should avoid what most of us encounter when performing the disassembly of the TA from the frame with the hardened steel bolt GM used. I don't think I'm alone describing what a PIA they are/were to remove once rusted in.
Unless you have the convenience of a frame off restore, this job is not for the faint of heart, just one of perseverance. Good luck.