GM C3 Alignment specs vs Performance specs
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
GM C3 Alignment specs vs Performance specs
I thought this would be an interesting post and maybe a good resource for people ready for alignments:
I got burned by not having a performance alignment specsheet with me on my last alignment and got a front positive camber set-up (like GM OEM.)
I'll remember next time I go in to bring the performacnce alignment specs with me.
GM specs datasheet at Autozone of all places:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
Compared to Performance listings at:
Guldstrand:
http://www.guldstrand.com/alignment.asp
Van Steel -download catalog pg
http://www.vansteel.com/
VBP
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm
I got burned by not having a performance alignment specsheet with me on my last alignment and got a front positive camber set-up (like GM OEM.)
I'll remember next time I go in to bring the performacnce alignment specs with me.
GM specs datasheet at Autozone of all places:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
Compared to Performance listings at:
Guldstrand:
http://www.guldstrand.com/alignment.asp
Van Steel -download catalog pg
http://www.vansteel.com/
VBP
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm
#2
Le Mans Master
Excellent topic. Alignment has such an impact on the driving experience. However many bits one may install in the name of improved handling, if the alignment isn't setup accurately with appropriate settings then optimum performance simply cannot be achieved.
IMHO, alignment should be treated as a precision process, so make certain that's understood before anyone touches your Vette's suspension. Always take a written copy of the exacting specs you believe are correct for you and don't be afraid to be a PITA over verifying the work is done to those specs. Also, it's a real good idea to make sure the mech doing the actual work understands how to adjust your camber struts (stock or aftermarket), rear toe (if necessary), spreader bar (if present) and the like, as suspension work is nowhere to have Bubba devising his own methods. If a shop has a problem with any of this, without question you ought best to go somewhere else.
Whatever set of specs you select, by keeping an eye on tire wear (a pyrometer will give indications before anything becomes visible) you will get a fairly good idea if there are any tweaks you should make which might better suit you.
Last, but not least, you don't have to have a bunch of fancy (read, "expensive") equipment to yield professional results, making DIY alignment an entirely feasible concept.
IMHO, alignment should be treated as a precision process, so make certain that's understood before anyone touches your Vette's suspension. Always take a written copy of the exacting specs you believe are correct for you and don't be afraid to be a PITA over verifying the work is done to those specs. Also, it's a real good idea to make sure the mech doing the actual work understands how to adjust your camber struts (stock or aftermarket), rear toe (if necessary), spreader bar (if present) and the like, as suspension work is nowhere to have Bubba devising his own methods. If a shop has a problem with any of this, without question you ought best to go somewhere else.
Whatever set of specs you select, by keeping an eye on tire wear (a pyrometer will give indications before anything becomes visible) you will get a fairly good idea if there are any tweaks you should make which might better suit you.
Last, but not least, you don't have to have a bunch of fancy (read, "expensive") equipment to yield professional results, making DIY alignment an entirely feasible concept.
#3
Drifting
Does tire width affect any of the specs listed?
I assume I would be using the VBP sheet, seeing as that is the suspension package I have.
However, my wheels are not stock. i am running 11.5 inch wide wheels in the rear, and 9.5 inch wide wheels in the front.
Would that affect my camber adjustments?
I assume I would be using the VBP sheet, seeing as that is the suspension package I have.
However, my wheels are not stock. i am running 11.5 inch wide wheels in the rear, and 9.5 inch wide wheels in the front.
Would that affect my camber adjustments?
#4
Safety Car
Tire and wheel width is a factor in the alignment settings, but really a minimal one.
The newer tires seem to like negative camber, but you don't need a lot of negative camber for the street. I always try to get as much caster as possible into the car and make sure that both sides are equal. That gives me straight line stability.
Richard Newton
How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982
Wheel and Tire Performance Handbook
The newer tires seem to like negative camber, but you don't need a lot of negative camber for the street. I always try to get as much caster as possible into the car and make sure that both sides are equal. That gives me straight line stability.
Richard Newton
How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982
Wheel and Tire Performance Handbook
#5
Team Owner
Does tire width affect any of the specs listed?
I assume I would be using the VBP sheet, seeing as that is the suspension package I have.
However, my wheels are not stock. i am running 11.5 inch wide wheels in the rear, and 9.5 inch wide wheels in the front.
Would that affect my camber adjustments?
I assume I would be using the VBP sheet, seeing as that is the suspension package I have.
However, my wheels are not stock. i am running 11.5 inch wide wheels in the rear, and 9.5 inch wide wheels in the front.
Would that affect my camber adjustments?
#6
If you do your own alignment it's not such an issue - you can change it at will. Takes me less than an hour to do the front and that's at piddling pace and tripple checking everything.
The back is a PITA when the toe needs to be adjusted.
You can get alignment tools at summit/jegs or pretty much any race shop. Expect to spend $150-$200.
The back is a PITA when the toe needs to be adjusted.
You can get alignment tools at summit/jegs or pretty much any race shop. Expect to spend $150-$200.
#7
Drifting
If you do your own alignment it's not such an issue - you can change it at will. Takes me less than an hour to do the front and that's at piddling pace and tripple checking everything.
The back is a PITA when the toe needs to be adjusted.
You can get alignment tools at summit/jegs or pretty much any race shop. Expect to spend $150-$200.
The back is a PITA when the toe needs to be adjusted.
You can get alignment tools at summit/jegs or pretty much any race shop. Expect to spend $150-$200.
Kinda dumb question....but what all tools would I need? I assume some sort of micro measuring device, or something?
#8
Melting Slicks
I have a tool called 'SmartCamber' purchased from Summit a couple years ago that I use to check camber, caster, and toe. I had to fabricate a 'toe bar' to attach to the opposing wheel which was a simple affair. There are other devices out there that all do basically the same thing. Aligning any car is basically simple geometry, and once you have tools for taking measurements such as the one I just mentioned all you need is a LEVEL surface and you can do an acceptable job at home as long as you have thoroughly familiarized yourself with how to make the various adjustments. The front end of a C3 Vette is standard GM with nothing fancy while the rear is of course unique to the Corvette and moderately tricky to get aligned properly, mostly because of the difficulty involved in changing shims on either side of the trailing arm front attachments. Of course you can rationalize that it's easier to pay someone to do it for you (and maybe even cheaper) but once you have the tools you can do it YOURSELF, FOREVER. AND you might even get so good at it that you can charge people to do it for THEM! I don't know how many alignments I've paid people to do for me over the years but I think I can honestly say that I've only truly managed to get one done right. For some reason properly setting alignment is a task that seems to evade the capabilities of most modern repair shops these daze, and "set the toe and let it go!" is the mantra that most of them live by. BTW, I think a SmartCamber with the toe attachments goes for about $200.00 these days- money well spent IMHO.
#9
There are also magnetic ones, but that won't do you much good if you have aluminum wheels.
I have a laser set for the karts we race and it is SWEET. Can do complete toe/caster/camber adjustment on both sides in 10 minutes. But it won't work on a car
#10
Drifting
I have this model with the toe kit. But have recently upgraded to 18" wheels so expect I will need a new one. There is a different model of the same for 17-22 inch wheels.
There are also magnetic ones, but that won't do you much good if you have aluminum wheels.
I have a laser set for the karts we race and it is SWEET. Can do complete toe/caster/camber adjustment on both sides in 10 minutes. But it won't work on a car
There are also magnetic ones, but that won't do you much good if you have aluminum wheels.
I have a laser set for the karts we race and it is SWEET. Can do complete toe/caster/camber adjustment on both sides in 10 minutes. But it won't work on a car
Changing the camber is easy in the front and back, with the smart struts. Toe is another story, of course...but I figure, it's not like I'll be changing that a lot, even if I track it. At least, not on the rear tires. I figure it'll cost me 200.00 bucks to get a decent alignment done anyway so.....I mean, seriously?
Why pay that, when I can get my aligment done by me, AND have a cool tool to boot?
#12
#14
#16
Melting Slicks
When Shoping for an alignment shop You should be looking for somebody who dose Track Days himself. If You go to a local Autocross or Track Day and ask around You will hear from those who know. What ever You do You should't start price shoping for a good deal You should find out what the Hourly rate is and pay it. If You go threw all your suspension Ajustments and have then Free and working before You take it in it will be money saved. Be sure to take some Vette Trailing arm Shims with You as You can't exspect them to stock them for a 30 Year old Car.