dburgjohn

align shop said shims rusted so I got kit with shims and bolts. Do I need to unhook spring from trialing arm before removing / replacing bolt? Or can I just support it with jack stands / jack?

spedaleden

If bolts and shms are that rusted I'd be looking at other parts like T/A/ T/A bushing etc.

But the answer to your questions is you can replace the shims and bolt without removong any of the othere suspension parts. Just get the car on Jackstands and place a jack under the T/A and jack it up So T/A is level and not hanging down.

dburgjohn

They said the TA and other parts seem to be OK but the shims are rusted together. Since kit has bolts as well as shims thought I would replace them all.

sgm2004

Interresting I never knew you could. Thanks

sgm

thegazman

You're in for a difficult job. Be pateint and persistent. After you get the trailing arms lose, clean the rust out of the area in the boby where arms fit and treat with a rust neutralizing procedure. Be sure and use stainless parts for replacement of old shims, bolt, and pin.

...Roger...

Depending on where the car spent most of its life the bolt might have to be cut out.This whole trailing arm shim thing can open a real can of worms.If the toe in (thats what the shims are for) is close then you have time to work on freeing up the rusty shims and possibly getting the bolt out in 1 piece.Using a good penetrate soak down the shims,then take a small piece of cotton cloth and stuff in on top of the shims and soak it.Then every couple days give the cloth a shot of penetrate,the cloth will hold the penetrate and it will leach out into the shims.Some guys just put a big gob of grease on top of the shims but I would think that would take longer.

Paul L

Apparently this type of blade can make a world of difference.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2161705

SwedeAWACS

After all the fussing with my rusted shims and trailing arm bolt, I decided to replace everything with stainless. Figured I wouldn't have to "talk to Jesus so much" if I ever had to do it again.

I used stainless everything EXCEPT the trailing arm bolt. On the advice of some forum guys, I used the bolt with the original recommended Hardness scale vs the Stainless steel bolt. Folks told me that would be the stronger bolt.

just a thought

Swede

kdf1986

I would think that you could install the TA shims without unhooking the spring. It would be reasonable to think that the TA assembly is supported by the shock, spring and control arm, and the trailing arm bolt only needs to be loose enough to move shims in and out of position as needed for alignment.

kdf

dburgjohn

I got new bolts with the kit. How in the world do you get to the back side to remove the bolt? I see the nut and large cotter key but I can't get my hand on the head of the bolt nor figure how to remove the bolt after the nut is removed.

Anyone done this already have some words of wisdom?

TimAT

Sounds like a really good way to get hurt. If something slips even a little that spring is going to yank pretty hard on the T/A. and with that much stored energy anything is possible. And behind that, the odds of everything staying in EXACTLY the same place while you remove/install the T/A bolts and shims are way out there. Either way, you're going to be twisting and pushing on the T/A to get the new bolt in.

Why not pop the spring bolt? One bolt that could potentially save you from getting hurt is NOT that big of a deal.

I did this last winter- mine were NOT rusted, I used a long brass drift and drove them out. Even with everything removed, shocks, sway bar, halfshafts, and brake lines, it was still a PITA to get the new bolts back in.

spedaleden

I would take a few pics and post it. Shims maybe rusted but still be fine. You may have to do nothing. Again if shims and bolt is bad I would figure other parts must be bad also.

dburgjohn

when I got new tires, I took it to align shop. Toe-in off on driver's rear. Shop said shims rusted and in need of replacement. That is where this all started. The bolt (well the end with the nut) seems in good condition, but since I had a new one....


how do you get around the back to get the old one out / new one in?

SwedeAWACS

My trailing arm bolts were rusted in so I had to cut them with a sawzall on each side of the trailing arm and removed the whole trailing arm.

Getting the new ones in was a tight fit. I used the fishing line trick and threaded it through with the cotter pin and pulled the bolt through with the line.

...Roger...

How much was the toe-in off?
Can you post the results of the alignment check?
How were your other rear tires wearing?
How does the car handle?
Did the tire shop give you an estimate to replace the shims and align the car?
This job of cutting the arm out doesnt sound like a job your looking forward to.
I question whether this job is absolutely necessary in your case.
If your toe in is off just slightly you might be better off just accepting your going to have a little tire wear.

dburgjohn

Align already done except for this. Car drives good. Shop did not say how much it was off. Quote 'match the shims on each side then move one large shim from inside to outside and bring back for us to check'. They said I would start to notice tire wear at about 3k miles if I do not correct it.

arctic74vette

Personally mine were rusted and i changed mine about a year ago. my DS spindle locked up so i had to get the whole trailing arm out to set clearance on the new spindle. IMO its a HARD job and if u are impatient/get pissed off pretty easily (myself included) its a real PITA. I would rather pay the align company a couple hundred dollars and let them do it, atleast thats what will happen next time. On regards to the bolt coming out i used a opened end wrench to lock the nut in place and turned the head of the bolt with another. I might add that when i got the nut off the bolt was locked in place so i got out the trust acetelyne(sp?) torch and cut that sucker in half.

IF i can do it, trust me, anybody can do it as im just a teenager
Best of luck to you.
Plan to spend hours JUST getting the shims removed.

dburgjohn

Ok, got the outboard shims out, but the inboard is fighting. I can move them up and down with a screwdriver. The bolt moves with them. The nut is backed off but I can't turn the bolt with a wrench on the bolt head.

I had changed my mind about replacing the bolt was just going to do the shims for alignment.

Any wisdom out there on getting the shims loose?

thanks

sgm2004

dburgjohn, soak the crap out of them with a penatrating fluid (BLAST) or even WD. Can you pivot the front of the shims up and out of the frame? If so take a punch put it through the holes in the shims and try to pry them out. Also will the T/A slide out on the bolt to give you room? If it not its going to be a fight . Thanks

sgm2004

dburgjohn

who in their right mind thought of this design for a TA? Man that was a pain to get out. Found out a flex-head ratchet box wrench was the only thing I could get on the bolt head to move it. Lots of spray oil, banging, sweating and some prayer. When it came out enough to have the hole clear of the frame I put one of those screw together chain link through the hole and put my pry bar though. Tight all the way out. I think the worst is the tight spot inside the frame. There should have been clearance or a hatch to reach this.

I was a GM mechanic back in the early 80s and still do most of my own work. This sure gave me a work out. Glad to say I did it but I sure would not want to do it again.