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Head recommendations for my 383?

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Old 09-14-2008, 03:44 PM
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neuroclast
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Default Head recommendations for my 383?

Heyo. Looking to buy some new heads for the 383. Well, new or used I don't care I just need different ones than are on my car now. I have 62cc Trick Flow 23* Street heads, which is putting my compression with the smaller duration cam I have too high (I calculate ~11.75). I can't run even 93 with horribly retarded timing without pinging.

I'm looking for something with a bigger combustion chamber than 62cc, as I want to actually be able to run 36* timing without worrying about my engine blowing up.

My current combo on race gas should be putting out around 455 at the crank. I'd like to have somewhere near that with my current 230/236 490/490 cam and the new heads. Not looking to spend more than $2k, like I said I don't care if they are new or used just looking for recommendations.

383, Edelbrock Performer Intake, 795 CFM Q-Jet
Old 09-14-2008, 04:08 PM
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C3 Stroker
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How about Trick Flow 72cc Street heads?....good bang for the buck...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Old 09-14-2008, 04:24 PM
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neuroclast
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I was looking at AFR 75cc chambers actually. Either would drop my compression down to about 10, which is good with me, but they are the same price. I've heard AFRs flow better than TFS so since they cost the same I'd probably get the AFRs. (Unless you have a reason for suggesting otherwise)
Old 09-14-2008, 04:42 PM
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C3 Stroker
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
I was looking at AFR 75cc chambers actually. Either would drop my compression down to about 10, which is good with me, but they are the same price. I've heard AFRs flow better than TFS so since they cost the same I'd probably get the AFRs. (Unless you have a reason for suggesting otherwise)
By all means, go with the AFRs. I was unaware the prices were the same. I used both Trick Flow 195s and AFR 195s on my previous 383, and while both worked great, the AFRs gave me about 30+ horsepower more than the TFs....you really feel it on the top end.
Old 09-14-2008, 06:32 PM
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neuroclast
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I'll probably go with AFRs unless I can talk myself into buying pistons. It seems stupid to buy heads when pistons are only $300, but I've never completely rebuilt an engine before.
Old 09-14-2008, 06:44 PM
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You have horrible mismatch of parts. An intake made for 600 cfm carbs and sub 5000 rpm in a 383. Way to big carb and compression, wimpy cam, and you need to understand that modern fast burn aluminum chambers only require 32 or less degrees.

The fix would be a higher rpm dual plane or a smaller port single plane that used the same gasket size as your heads. Then buy a roller cam of about 240/248 degrees with a 112 lc

By chance are those heads the older Trick flows that are limited to .500 lift?
Old 09-14-2008, 06:54 PM
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Dart pro 1 200s 72cc chambers with straight plugs and an edlebrock RPM for a Q-Jet.

Last edited by Guru_4_hire; 09-14-2008 at 07:02 PM.
Old 09-14-2008, 06:59 PM
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neuroclast
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I agree, it's pretty messed up. I didn't build the engine, I just got it with the car and I'm trying to fix it on a low grade military budget.

I'm not sure exactly what the heads are, I even contacted TFS and they didn't know for certain. I'm pretty sure though they are limited to .520 lift on the standard springs.

Also, you think buying a new intake manifold and a higher duration cam would fix my pinging issues? When I'm well over 11:1? I've been warned against going that big on the cam because I might lose vacuum, which I need for my brakes of course :] What is your suggestion for carb/intake/cam/heads keeping the -7cc pistons I have now?

Last edited by neuroclast; 09-14-2008 at 07:33 PM.
Old 09-14-2008, 07:38 PM
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Money is always a problem. I have a flat top piston 383 also. With 64 cc heads. I originally had a 232/240 roller cam and it had detonation problems. My only change was to go up to a 236/242 112 It runs fine on our local California 91 octane
Old 09-14-2008, 07:41 PM
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neuroclast
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Originally Posted by gkull
Money is always a problem. I have a flat top piston 383 also. With 64 cc heads. I originally had a 232/240 roller cam and it had detonation problems. My only change was to go up to a 236/242 112 It runs fine on our local California 91 octane
What kind of compression were you running? Was it as high as mine? I don't mind changing the cam because that's pretty cheap, but I don't want to do it and then still have the exact same issue. And then on top of that, how's your vacuum with the longer duration?
Old 09-14-2008, 08:23 PM
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gkull
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
What kind of compression were you running? Was it as high as mine? I don't mind changing the cam because that's pretty cheap, but I don't want to do it and then still have the exact same issue. And then on top of that, how's your vacuum with the longer duration?
Cranes makes a 240/248 street roller in both h-roller and S-roller It would cure your problem because we were only a couple of cc difference in head size. My 236/242 is a special cam ground retarded.

You can change the springs to match the cam without removing the heads. I never had a problem with vacuum brakes or head lights. I have over 12 inches at the 850-900 idle. I could floor it in OD at 50mph and just take off
Old 09-14-2008, 09:13 PM
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neuroclast
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Wouldnt happen to have a link to that cam do you? I looked around and can't find it.
Old 09-14-2008, 11:55 PM
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http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
Old 09-15-2008, 07:53 AM
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Hrm. I looked at the hydraulic one, and that doesn't seem matched to my usage. I have a 2800 stall converter, which isn't a huge deal because I can change that later, but those specs don't make it look like a streetable cam at all. I still want something I can drive around daily and be happy with. I also want a hydraulic and not a solid, so maybe I'll have to keep looking.

Last edited by neuroclast; 09-15-2008 at 08:09 AM.
Old 09-15-2008, 11:59 PM
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Cam write ups are usually for run of the mill 350 ci. So when it says stall speed and rpm it is for wimpy motors not 383+ ci motors.

Also the less head flow you have the larger the cam you need to make power. Some guys on this forum have 250+ intake duration on 383 ci and drive them around. I've always believed that big heads and just enough cam to get by the higher compression is the best
Old 09-16-2008, 05:50 AM
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Default AFRs

I have a set of 66 cc angle plug L98 195s for sale. They have the upgraded springs for hyd roller cams and come with a set of summit roller rockers. They have literally less than 500 miles on them. When the new Eliminator heads came out I upgraded. Email me at tbaitis@***.net if you are interested.
Thanks
Todd
Old 09-16-2008, 05:55 AM
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neuroclast, let me know if you decide to get rid of the TF's, I might be interested.

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Old 09-16-2008, 07:30 AM
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63mako
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If it runs good now other than the ping I would go with AFR 195's eliminators 75 CC and keep all as is. Then you can time properly and run Premium with no issues. Still over 10 to 1 comp and very streetable. Will work with your existing cam, intake and torque convertor and still pull 450 HP or better with a lot of low to midrange torque. Sell your Trick flows and your not out much.
Old 09-16-2008, 07:38 AM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2043253
Old 09-16-2008, 08:57 AM
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TedH
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Good flow and reasonable price:

DART Iron Eagle 200cc intake port, 72cc comb chamber.

I run the 180cc version of this head on my mildly modified '80 350.

From DART:
Iron Eagle 200cc 64/72cc 2.02/1.60" Street performance & restricted oval track:6,000 rpm, 327/350ci

Iron Eagle 215cc 64/72cc 2.05/1.60" Serious street performance, oval track, & bracket racing: 7,000 rpm, 383/400ci


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