handling
03-02-2008, 10:43 PM
#3
Instructor
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just over all. do i need f41 coil spring or mono leaf on front . anda mono leaf on back with swaybar .what would should i do to make it handle better ? i put a 93 lt1 motor and i was told it was lighter then my old motor if that matters.
03-03-2008, 02:01 PM
#4
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2007
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What's your end goal, highway driver, autocrosser, etc.? Most things you do will sacrifice some "ride quality". Yeah, I know, C-3 and ride quality may be an oxymoron. What's your budget?
Poly bushings all around, higher rate springs, bigger front swaybar, performance shocks, Bigger diameter wheels with lower profile tires, and a really good alignment...I've built an extremely well handling C-3 that can keep up with the new stuff without going to front monsprings, coilovers, rack and pinion steering, etc....It all gets back to what you want to spend to achieve what level of performance.
Poly bushings all around, higher rate springs, bigger front swaybar, performance shocks, Bigger diameter wheels with lower profile tires, and a really good alignment...I've built an extremely well handling C-3 that can keep up with the new stuff without going to front monsprings, coilovers, rack and pinion steering, etc....It all gets back to what you want to spend to achieve what level of performance.
03-03-2008, 06:16 PM
#5
Racer
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The first thing you should do is make sure you have a good shock on the car. I put bilsteins on mine and as soon as it got to 15mph, I could tell the difference. There was an immediate improvement. MY speed around the local cloverleaf improved; I then put bilsteins on my 74 chevy 1 ton 4x4 and my 90 jeep cherokee and they too rode incredibly better.
03-03-2008, 06:34 PM
#6
Racer
First you have to be shure that any part related to the suspensions (bushings, ball joint and so on....) is in perfect conditions.
Then you must check the steering system (specially the idler-arm....) and restore it's perfect condition.
After that, you can spend in some performance part:
Bilstein shocks
Stiffer springs
...and the most cost effective special part (for my esperience)...
Smart-Strut-Rods from VB&P...... very good part reducing the worst aspect of the rear IRS of the C3....
THE JACKING !
Then you must check the steering system (specially the idler-arm....) and restore it's perfect condition.
After that, you can spend in some performance part:
Bilstein shocks
Stiffer springs
...and the most cost effective special part (for my esperience)...
Smart-Strut-Rods from VB&P...... very good part reducing the worst aspect of the rear IRS of the C3....
THE JACKING !
03-03-2008, 09:34 PM
#8
Drifting
If you have studied the history of Corvettes you would know that Zora, who was Chief Engineer for Corvette, made sure that all Corvettes had suspension that was safe and handled well at any speed the car could attain. So if you follow the recommendations above about getting your suspension and steering up to what it was when new, your car will handle safely and competently up to about 130mph or so. If you need more than that, then you can begin your upgrades. Or combine your upgrades with getting it up to new condition.
Cheers,
Pete
Cheers,
Pete
03-03-2008, 11:00 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
In addition to replacing any other worn components (idler, *****, TA bushings...), Phase One ought to go something like this: install the best wheel tire combo you can afford (with the tread not wider than your wheels); get some new, high-quality shocks; change out all of the rubber for poly in the front suspension, and install heim-jointed rear camber struts w/o eccentrics (I'm not a fan of poly here, or eccentrics); don't forget to make sure your steering box is in top condition and optimum adjustment; and have your shark properly aligned by a competent shop (using VB&P or Guldstrand specs).
If that's not enough to satisfy you, only then do I suggest upping your spring rates to ~F41 or higher specs and consideration to lower your ride heights towards or to (but not below) Chevy Power Book recommendations. There are other incidentals, such as a solid diff cross-member locating kit, but that's the big picture. If ride comfort remains somewhat of a priority, then you may wish to leave your ride height up so you can run with softer springs and not bottom out, but bear in mind that you will leave a good chunk of handling performance on the table. I don't suggest lowering w/o stiffer springs.
Notice I didn't recommend bars. IMHO larger bars are too often used as a crutch against excessive roll (particularly in under-sprung cars) without consideration of the fact that they increase lateral weight transfer (stiffer springs don't) which, in turn, reduces available traction at the end of the car on which they are applied. Thus, bars would best be considered as secondary fine tuning devices, noting that a rear bar is not always required to balance a well setup C3.
Finally, don't go too far in reducing/eliminating rear negative camber gain in your suspension geometry. While a good idea for the strip, that's a counter-productive move for cornering.
If that's not enough to satisfy you, only then do I suggest upping your spring rates to ~F41 or higher specs and consideration to lower your ride heights towards or to (but not below) Chevy Power Book recommendations. There are other incidentals, such as a solid diff cross-member locating kit, but that's the big picture. If ride comfort remains somewhat of a priority, then you may wish to leave your ride height up so you can run with softer springs and not bottom out, but bear in mind that you will leave a good chunk of handling performance on the table. I don't suggest lowering w/o stiffer springs.
Notice I didn't recommend bars. IMHO larger bars are too often used as a crutch against excessive roll (particularly in under-sprung cars) without consideration of the fact that they increase lateral weight transfer (stiffer springs don't) which, in turn, reduces available traction at the end of the car on which they are applied. Thus, bars would best be considered as secondary fine tuning devices, noting that a rear bar is not always required to balance a well setup C3.
Finally, don't go too far in reducing/eliminating rear negative camber gain in your suspension geometry. While a good idea for the strip, that's a counter-productive move for cornering.
03-04-2008, 12:11 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
Quick fix for the steet, get some F-41 big block front/rear sway bars and Bilstein shocks. Use quality tires, lighter wheels and you'll be happy. For serious use, I just dropped $1000 with Koni North America re-doing my "new" shocks for this comming season of autocrossing (set of double adjustables that were shortened-all 4 shocks.) The re-work was NOT CHEAP! but, if Koni does it I know I'm not getting JUNK back and I am pretty SICK of all the shock "experts" out there that can't machine shock bodies (they only know how to change shims/oil and run dyno runs on their machines.) How fast do you want to go? it only costs $$$$
03-04-2008, 02:35 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
At that speed, aero will have become a 1st order consideration in handling.
BTW, bars are a crutch and should be done last to finish tuning balance, not to establish it, using the least necessary to check undesired roll...
BTW, bars are a crutch and should be done last to finish tuning balance, not to establish it, using the least necessary to check undesired roll...
03-04-2008, 02:44 PM
#14
buy a brand new Z06.
The C3 is a soggy frame by todays standards. The brakes, suspension, steering is all based on 1960's technology. While proven & effective, probably not a good idea to take a "backwoods C3" up to 200+ mph.
I've had my C3 on fast tracks like PIR and various autoX, it's NOT going to keep up with modern cars. Again, buy a brand new Z06.
The C3 is a soggy frame by todays standards. The brakes, suspension, steering is all based on 1960's technology. While proven & effective, probably not a good idea to take a "backwoods C3" up to 200+ mph.
I've had my C3 on fast tracks like PIR and various autoX, it's NOT going to keep up with modern cars. Again, buy a brand new Z06.
Last edited by OregonVette80; 03-04-2008 at 02:47 PM.
03-04-2008, 03:06 PM
#16
550# front coil springs= $79 (cut the coils if you still want the car lower)
360# rear mono-spring= $279 (get the 10 inch lowering bolts.)
buy Bilstein Sport shocks all the way around.
The car will handle 100% better than it did when you bought it.
Even with a new idler arm, steering box rebuild, rag joint, bushings etc...These older cars will have a bit of slop (comparatively to a new car) which is inherent to the design & age of the car.
Talk to guys like Gary GTR1000 and Jim Shea, they know their stuff on this board.
03-05-2008, 01:25 AM
#19
Race Director
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buy a brand new Z06.
The C3 is a soggy frame by todays standards. The brakes, suspension, steering is all based on 1960's technology. While proven & effective, probably not a good idea to take a "backwoods C3" up to 200+ mph.
I've had my C3 on fast tracks like PIR and various autoX, it's NOT going to keep up with modern cars. Again, buy a brand new Z06.
The C3 is a soggy frame by todays standards. The brakes, suspension, steering is all based on 1960's technology. While proven & effective, probably not a good idea to take a "backwoods C3" up to 200+ mph.
I've had my C3 on fast tracks like PIR and various autoX, it's NOT going to keep up with modern cars. Again, buy a brand new Z06.
Auctionman - If you want to take the easy way out, just get a full front and rear suspension kit from one of the vendors here. I got the VB&P Performance Plus System along with new wheels and tires. The difference in handling is night and day.
Last edited by Z-man; 03-05-2008 at 01:28 AM.