frank24

Not happy w rubber/poly.
Anyone ever use spherical bushings in your trailing arms??
If so, where did you get them and did you alter the factory t arm?

Belgian1979vette

As far as I know of only VSE had them (Herb Adams). They were distributed by Moroso, but not anymore. They can't be had anymore unfortunatly.

1mpalss

Maybe try Twin Turbo's solution and use the Johnny Joints?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=johnny

Or this thread, page 3

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=johnny

I wonder what the benefit of the spherical/Johnny joint would have on your ability to control toe a little better, particularly if you adapt a 6 link to the setup?

Belgian1979vette

not much, the toe problem is mainly design related.

1mpalss

I wonder what this setup looks like when modeled like FLEXUSMARK did in this post:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=6+lin k

I wonder if we can manipulate our rear toe without adding dual control arms like a C4? Maybe:
raise the differential .5 to 1 inch in the chassis, lower the stock lower control arm mount .5 to 1.5 inches or so (with a spacer block or Smart Struts), add Norval's upper camber rod and remove the c-clips (like the 6 link), replace the front trailing arm bushings with spherical or Johnny Joints (instead of having to construct and mount new trailing arms), and then build some sort of toe-control rod (like Stroker). It would combine better geometry (from the Chevy Power Manual) with the precise camber control of the 6 link (eliminating the half shafts from their suspension duties) and real toe control from a toe rod (aided by the Johnny Joints' better articulation). I think FLEXUSMARKS' plans nearly eliminated the in and out movement of the halfshafts, making specially contructed slip-joints unnecessary. Heck, add an outer half-shaft safety loop and you'd be legal to run faster on NHRA drag strips. I just don't have the engineering/CAD expertise to determine if this could give some degree of toe control without binding up. It certainly couldn't eliminate toe change, unless you could also hinge the hub area of the trailing arm - then a toe rod, or dual lower strut rods, would offer real toe control.
I've only been thinking of this type of arrangement to simplify an improved C3 rear suspension and, possibly, keep it legal for most racing sanctioning bodies.

Scott Marzahl

Guldstrand has probably what you are after, most of this stuff is designed for track cars though. Use the toe adjusting rods and the metal trailing arm bushings, bottom of page, center.

http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/pr...?idCategory=41

73339

I would not recommend those on the street or anything that gets driven a lot.

Redvetracr said they get sloppy after awhile

Lightweight 001

We build them and they will soon be on the website. They sell for $250 powdercoated per side. If you have any questions please call me at Duntov Motor Company 972-243-3838.

Edward

TheSkunkWorks

Mind sharing here with what type bushing/bearing? Johnny's??

1mpalss

Well, here goes. Cut out the old rubber bushings with a plasma cutter:


The Johnny joints are 2" from Currie Enterprise and the sleeve has to be welded into the arm. Silver tube was added to mount a grease zerk that would be accessible when arms are installed:


I'm obviously not a welder by trade. Gas Millermatic makes it about as easy as it gets though:


That's all I've got for now. These Johnny joints should give a little better control than rubber without going all-out with spherical bearings.

TODD C

a company called Global West Performance sells trailing arms with spherical bearings. they are a little bit pricey, but look to be very well constructed from the pictures on their website.

Dagious

Has anyone found and installed spherical bearings in the standard Trailing Arms? If so, by who and what is the size.

Metalhead140

I'm using the Global West arms with spherical joints and apart from needing to shorten the handbrake cable, they work great and are super solidly built.

Dagious

Which cable did you shorten? The front cable or the rear that hooks up to the drums? I’ve read that with the relocation of the cable mounts to the inside, there is an issue.

reno stallion

Took my Van Steel offset TAs cut out the poly ends and put in johnnys

lionelhutz

From the post 2 above where yours was posted are pictures of the work and this info - Johnny joints are 2" from Currie Enterprise

reno stallion

I got mine from Currie

Metalhead140

The rear cable. For now I've just cut it and used cable clamps, and that has worked fine.

73C34me

I used a hole saw and removed the bushing area of the t-arms and welded in jonnie joints. Pretty straight forward.