ImBatman

Here is the solid flat tappet cam I have been running to give you an idea where I am now.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=11-678-5

My setup is as follows:
454 +.030
Edelbrock Performer RPM 110cc heads
10:1 speedpro pistons.
Performer RPM air gap intake.
850 Mighty Demon carb.
Full MSD ignition
M20 4 speed
3:70 rear gears
275\40\17 rear tires.

I want something that operates somewhere in the 2000-6000 rpms. A good rough idle and lots of low end torque. This is a 2 day a week car at most not a daily driver. I have looked at several cams but I am not real good at decyphering the meanings of the cams profiles. Advice, suggestions and first hand expereince recommendations are greatly appreciated.... Also desktop dyno info on my setup with a roller would be great if someone doesn't mind running the #'s....

Thanks
Wade

Gordonm

If your not going to spin the motor over 6000 rpm then a hyd. roller will do. Something in the 230 to 235 @ .050 with a lift of around .600 to .625 would provide stump pulling torque with that setup. With that setup you will incinerate the tires in the first 3 gears.

427Hotrod

I finally got around to answering the PM. Sorry!

JIM

69 N.O.X. RATT

I ran almost the exact same combination:
Same heads and intake
850 Holley
10.5 to 1

I ran the Comp XR280R .646 .653 on a 110 242/ and I think 248 at .050. It was an excellent street cam, throttle response was awesome. Pulled like crazy to 7000 rpms. I would highly reccomend it for your combination.....made 450 rwhp on a stingy chassis dyno and had a very agressive sounding idle also.

ImBatman

Thanks for the input guys! I am new to the roller stuff and at the cost I don't want to make a mistake. I am not set on a hyd roller as I have always preferred solid cams but I need to make sure I know what I am looking at before making a decision. Although my top end I beleive is pretty stout I am limited in rpm range with the bottom. I have a 2blt block SCAT 9000 cast crank and 3/8 rods with arp bolts so high rpms arent really an option.

Is there a consensus on which roller cam maker is the best or most desirable?

Thanks
Wade

tshort

I've been the solid flat tappett and solid roller route and from my experience and your setup it doesn't make much sense to go solid roller. As mentioned before, if you aren't or can't spin the motor above 6K then going solid roller is not the best choice. Especially if you plan on keeping the car on the street. Idleing EATS solid rollers. You can spend more on the newer rollers with the EDM oiling hole but so far real world tests haven't proved the EDM to provide much more life on the street. Even if the right conditions exist you will still have to go on the "once a year rebuild plan". Maybe you don't mind pulling the intake off and sending the lifters in once a year for rebuilding and maybe money isn't an issue either but from a performance standpoint it still doesn't make much sense with your bottom end.

OK Jim, set him straight with a good cam.

Good luck with whatever you decide and great looking ride!

Gordonm

I'm looking into a solid roller for mine in the future. I do have the bottom end so 7000+ rpm is not a problem. I am looking into a duration of 235 to about 240 @ .050 and a lift of around .580 to .600. This is for my 385 so a 454 will be a little different. The higher the duration the higher the rpm band will be.

ImBatman

Nope to both.....I have pulled the intake way to much lately and with 2 kids and a wife money definately is an issue.... Thanks this is definately the kind of information I am looking for. Jim sent me a PM last night and I just got a chance to respond asking him for some recommendations also. I kinda thought with the solid rollers that I had looked at that most if not all were way out of my rpm range.

Wade

69 N.O.X. RATT

I agree a flat tappet would be better for your parameters.....I added the info on the roller because you asked for roller info.

ImBatman

So sticking with my current flat tappet solid is a better option for me???

Les

Blackrat,
If you check my sig you'll see that our cams are very similar. Given that cost is a factor for you & that your current cam is a stout street cam already, unless there's some kind of problem you haven't mentioned, I'd stick w/ your current combo. You certainly could pick up some torque & a bit more HP w/ a hydraulic roller (while giving up some RPMs at the top) but I had to go to Nitto Drag Radials because I already couldn't put the power to the ground in the first 2 gears.

If you were one of those lucky guys who had plenty of money to play w/ it'd be no big deal to try different cams until you found the combo that made you the happiest. I envy those guys- they're the ones who have the best 1st hand knowledge. In any case, that's my 2 cents worth. Good luck w/ whatever you decide to do.

Ironcross

Yep, unless you want to install a Rev kit to keep those heavy roller lifters against the cam at high RPM`s. {7000+} One of those 600 lift ZL1, L88, or a LS7 cams is more than enough for any street engine and uses all stock parts such as springs, push rods, lifters, rocker arms, and retainers that could potentially give you over 500 HP with the right components and adjustments. And if your interested in sound, it cant get any better than this.

Plus the SOB works...

AutoX-Z06

Would the same rebuild process of once a year apply to SBC's, with solid rollers, also?

ImBatman

Hmmmmm....... Y'all have me doubting my decision to change cams now. I do like my cam that I have now I just thought that there would be a major power gain with a roller. But if I am not going to gain much it is hardly worth it.

Wade

TheSkunkWorks

You'll indeed pick up performance with a well selected roller, as the increased rates mean more lift area under the curve for a given duration, but it isn't the best choice if budget is a higher priority than power. As the old saying goes, "How fast do you want to go? How much do you want to spend?"

Should you go roller, I agree there's no point to installing a solid if you aren't going to spin it past 6K. And, in that event, CompCams XFI series of intake and exhaust HR profiles shouldn't be overlooked.

tshort

Pretty much. I mean, you can run them until you start seeing lash increasing and you might get a few years out of the lifters before one or more starts going. With that method you have to be extremely **** about checking valve lash, keep a diary, and probably not be doing many high mile cruises. The real 'problem' is that when a roller starts to go it can go VERY quickly. I just lost a roller last month and it was about 40 miles from my house when I started seeing symptoms. Instead of immediately stopping and having the vette towed I pulled over,tightened the valve lash on the one that was going, (didn't know the exact problem at the time) and w/in a few blocks the roller was completely destroyed. Along with some nasty gauling of the cam lobe. Luckily I quickly pulled over and ended up having it towed to my house. So $150 to tow it, a new lifter, rebuild the others, and have the cam reground, and new bearings and gaskets and it'll be back on the road. See how this can start getting expensive? Murphey's law always takes over too. This stuff never seems to happen when you're at the track and have a trailer or when you're a block from your house.

But I've digressed, the answer is no you don't HAVE to do the yearly lifter rebuild but in the long run it's most likely the cheaper thing to do.

C6-CYa

Hope I'm not hijacking Wade's thread, however it seems his questions have been answered. Reading the feedback though, I'm wondering about the cam I have in my 427, and whether it's appropriate?

I have a Comp Cams CB XE 2744-10, with the following specs...

Gross Valve Lift: 0.552 Intake, .555 Exhaust
Duration at .006: 274 Intake, 286 Exhaust

Valve timing at .006: 31 Intake Open, 63 Intake Close
77 Exhauist Open, 29 exhaust Close

Duration at 0.05: 230 Intake, 236 Exhaust
Lobe Lift: .325 Intake, .327 Exhaust

It has Pro Mag rockers, forged pistons, and is .030 over. This motor was in the '69 when I bought it.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Steve

BADDD

How do the late model rollers hold up so well? because there Hyd?

tshort

Yes. Hydraulic rollers are limited more on rpm so the higher spring rates aren't needed. Solid rollers are typically going to have more aggressive lobes, operate at higher rpm, and much higher spring rates. It's the low rpm, little to no oil, high spring rate that kills the solid rollers.