MIKER

I have not completely re-assembled it because I am waiting on a part but I think that the worst of it is done.
It will be a while before I can test them out because my transmission may not be ready until late December or early January. I'm thinking about going through my rear wheel bearings "while-I'm-at-it".

I used the following parts:
Rear end rebuild kit 80-82 PN# 5542 ($89) www.bairs.com
SPICER DANA ring and pinion, 3.73:1 ($141) www.tomsdifferentials.com
4 - GM gear lube PN#1052271 ($5.10 each)
1 - GM additive PN#1052358 ($5.03)
1 - GM Gear Marking Compound PN#1052351 ($3.38)
1 - 12 pack of beer ($10.00)

I used the following reference material:
- GM Shop Manual for 1980 Corvette ST364-80 Section 4B "Rear Axle".
- SPICER DANA Ring Gear and Pinion Tooth Pattern Interpretation (included with gear set).
- Yukon Gear & Axle Installation Kit Instructions.http://www.ring-pinion.com/yukon-instructions.pdf
- Randy's Ring & Pinion "Tech Library" http://www.ring-pinion.com/home.html

I used the following tools:
1- 10-40 in/lb. Torque wrench
1- 16-80 ft/lb. Torque wrench
1- 50-250 ft/lb. Torque wrench
1- 1" Micrometer
1- Bearing puller
1- 12 pack of beer
1- GM gear marking compound PN# 1052351
1- 18" Pipe wrench (for holding yoke while tightening pinion nut)
1- Bearing race installer (home made)
1- Big hammer
1- Differential housing holding fixture (home made for use with engine stand)
Obviously quite a few other tools were used but this is a list of the essentials.



My final specifications vs. reference specifications:
Pinion Pre-load - The GM manual called for 15 to 35 in/lb. and the Yukon guide called for 14-19 in/lb. My actual results were 18 1/2 in/lb.
Back Lash- The GM manual states "Backlash tolerance is 0.005" to 0.009" and cannot vary more than 0.003" between points checked. The Yukon guide showed 0.006 to 0.010". My actual results based on the four locations that I checked were .007, .006, .006, and .005 .
Pinion depth / Gear contact pattern- The GM manual specifies the use of Pinion Depth Gauge Tool but the DANA SPICER instruction says to use the GEAR CONTACT PATTERN METHOD and not to use the gauges. Below are pictures of the contact pattern on my gears along with comparison charts. The pictures are not real clear but let me know if any of you see a problem with the pattern on my gears vs. the reference guides. I was fortunate in that I started out with the original shim pack values and the contact pattern looks just fine to me. The only real trouble I had was trying to find an acceptable shim pack combination for the pinion pre-load but at least that bearing is not pressed on!




Due to wear on the differential shaft from the inner yoke shafts, I have ordered a new one. This will delay completion until it arrives via UPS. Combined, the wear on both sides of this shaft was equal to .025". Replacing this shaft should eliminate a considerable amount of the .014" (left side) and .015" (right side) inner shaft yoke play that I had in the beginning.
I have decided to just clean up the ends of my yoke shafts and re-use them as they are. I was going to test the hardness on the ends of the shafts but the guy who runs that particular lab at work was off all last week. I'm also not replacing my clutch pack because it still works fine, I'm too darned cheap and I don't have the required tools.





[Modified by MIKER, 3:39 PM 12/2/2001]

0Mike69@ECS

Cant answer your q about the pattern... but nice job! and great post! :cool: :cool:

Gordonm

Mine is almost done also. I like your bracket for the engine stand. I was able to mount mine on the engine stand also but it does not look as good as yours.

81vette

Miker,

Was the Dana 44 the stock unit for an 80-82 Corvette, or did you install this from another year car?

gkull

All I can say is

When I did the calc. for max MPH with a given tire dia. I had to have 4.11 for Nevada open road racing. Speed gun tested at 174 @6500 Now I went for the 7500 rpm motor and bigger dia. The best thing is 3.90. I drive my car. Once you get up around 7000 rpm your going fast. 700R4's impress the passenger when you shift at to fourth at 130 mph.

390 is the best comp. I'm going to to do it.

Stingy74

GKull, if you can really hit 7500 in OD with the 3.90 that will be over 200mph! Let me know when you're gonna be goin that fast so I can come watch!! :crazy:

MIKER

Yes, the Dana 44 is the stock unit for 80-82.

gkull,
I would have gone with the 3.90s too but it requires changing the carrier to use it with the DANA 44. 3.90 would be a great gear to have!




[Modified by MIKER, 5:46 AM 12/3/2001]

MIKER

I received my new differential case shaft from Bair's and completed assembly. After installing the inner yoke shafts, I have no endplay at all. NADA, ZERO, ZILCH. I have no idea how that occured???
As I said at the top of this thread, I had .014 on one side and .015 on the other before I started tearing it down. The carrier shaft had worn on two sides a total of .025. That explains all but .004 of the combined end play. Where did the rest of it go?
I had no problem reinstalling the snap rings onto the yoke shafts.
I'm not going to worry too much about it.
I even drilled and tapped a hole into the bottom of the differential case to make future oil changes easier.

Last night I tore down the passenger side rear wheel bearing / spindle assembly. To inspect/rebuild. The drivers side was done 5 or 6 years ago. I will probably go ahead and rebuild all of the calipers while waiting for the transmission to be rebuilt.

bence13_33

Miker:
Nicely Done! Rebuilding a differential is definitely WAY out of my league right now. Nice post and pictures. :cheers:

gkull

All I can say is the beer was to much! Today i had friends over for football and BS. I picked up Bud, Coors, miller for $8.99 18 packs and one corona 12 pack for $7.99 :cheers:

What you doin to the tranny?

MIKER

gkull, no doubt, I paid WAY too much for the beer at a local convienience store!!!
My 700R4 is getting a rebuild / upgrade. When it is done it's performance should be more in line with what I am looking for. Firm shifts and extreme durability.
Here is a partial list of what it will have in it.
>Replace the 2000-2200 stall converter with a 2500-2700 converter. (Any of you guys need a 2000-2200 stall converter with only 1700 miles on it?)
>Return to using the existing OEM torque converter lock up control system (vac. switched) that was used with the previously installed TH-350C. Currently, lockup is based on line pressure.
>3-4 WOT up-shift kit
>Corvette servo
>Upgrade the pump rotor with a custom made hardened steel one.
>Increase overall line pressure significantly.
>Modify the shift points.
The transmission builder has a large list of modifications planned. I know so little about it that much of the terminology is over my head but I feel like he under$tand$ what I am looking for and I know that he is capable of delivering it.
I'm not asking for much, I just want it to shift hard and last FOREVER! :lol:

Mike69, Gordonm, and Bence,
Thanks for the compliments! :) I just hope that this information will be usefull to someone in the future.
Bence, I seriously doubt that rebuilding a differential is "WAY out of your league". You may lack the proper tools but I'm sure that you could do it if you wanted to.
:cheers:

zwede

Mike,

congrats on a job well done. I have set up a few ring & pinions, and as long as you get a quality set, I found the stock pinion shims will work. The exception is richmond gears. They seem to make noise no matter what.

As for your pattern, it looks excellent. Notice how it is centered in the up/down dimension. You may think it should also be centered in the in/out dimension, but mine have always come out off-setted slightly outwards, like yours.

Strike3

Hay Miker!!
I'll probably use your string, here, as a bible when I get that far. I'm going the same route and may use your trans builder if he's agreeable. Keep us advised as to cost and satisfaction, and thanks for the great entry!

ZD75blue

Gkull think of what you could do with a gear vendors overdrive at that speed... talk about fast, and your car would be idle at the same 174... steps back and says dang gotta get me one a those, adding to list

ZD :jester

gkull

Over the years I have all kinds of variations of 700R4's. Full manual with manual lockup in all gears. auto with lockup in all gears. As much as 3800 stall converters. But now I've settled on what I think is the best. Manual lockup (toggle switch) auto with two set of govenors. so for everyday driving I have the 5000 rpm auto shifter and the race day 6800. With a 9.5 inch 3000 stall 3 clutch lockup.

Before you button up the 700 ask about 1/2 line lockup selinoid. I have had to replace TC just because the lockup clutch blows out. So the 1/2 (stock is 3/8th)smashes the plates together with more force - saving the clutch or clutches

The reason I have gone to 3 clutch (5&7 are available) is because. OEM and low end converters have @ 19 sq inches of clutch holding surface. higher end singles have about 24 sq inches. 3 clutch has 38 sq inches and I run the tranny with 80-100 pounds over stock psi.