Trailering a C3
#2
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '08
when I brought mine home on the trailer I did a 4 point tiedown off the frame under the doors. There were some holes in the bottom of the frame that are slotted, I slid the hook of the chains into these and then chained to trailer. Had to chain to the front and rear of the trailer otherwise the chain was rubbing on the tires.
#3
Melting Slicks
I am by far no expert but both times I have had to trailer mine the guys have always said use a four point tie down and never strap it from the frame. Use over the axles or sway bar or something like that but don't strap down the frame b/c this doesn't allow the springs and shocks to work during the ride which can cause damage or too much vibration.... hope that makes sense... sounds right to me....
HTH,
Sully
HTH,
Sully
#4
Racer
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I use straps around the lower front A arms and around the half shafts against the diff by crossing them. Puts a bit of a load on the diff bearing but not more than they get when driving. I've been told the best way to tie a car down is with wheel straps. I don't like to see the car bouncing around on the trailer.
#5
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Traikering
L82 if I understand you correctly, you ran your hooks into the slots on the frame and then ran your chains between the tires to the front and rear of the trailer and then cinched it down from there. Is that correct?
The front I can go around the A-arms but was really concerned about the back with the leaf springs and shorty axles.
The front I can go around the A-arms but was really concerned about the back with the leaf springs and shorty axles.
#6
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St. Jude Donor '09
Picked up my first vette on Saturday and trailered it home. Did a lot of research before hand. You DON'T want to tie to any of the suspension parts as the movement can cause damage. The frame is the best way.
She hauled as smooth as silk, especially over bumps.
This site was very helpful to include the T-hooks info. I got 4 but only used 2 on the front.
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/d...r3.html#Buying
Hope this helps.
She hauled as smooth as silk, especially over bumps.
This site was very helpful to include the T-hooks info. I got 4 but only used 2 on the front.
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/d...r3.html#Buying
Hope this helps.
Last edited by BTAL; 01-15-2008 at 11:27 AM.
#8
Pro
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Picked up my first vette on Saturday and trailered it home. Did a lot of research before hand. You DON'T want to tie to any of the suspension parts as the movement can cause damage. The frame is the best way.
She hauled as smooth as silk, especially over bumps.
This site was very helpful to include the T-hooks info. I got 4 but only used 2 on the front.
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/d...r3.html#Buying
Hope this helps.
She hauled as smooth as silk, especially over bumps.
This site was very helpful to include the T-hooks info. I got 4 but only used 2 on the front.
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/d...r3.html#Buying
Hope this helps.
#9
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '08
With the front spoiler I had to loop just inside of the front tire to avoid the chains rubbing on the suspension, same on the back. I was leery of tieing to anything that wasnt solid on the car, (halfshafts, A arms). If it had been a solid axle car it wouldnt have bothered me to tie to it. I had to position the car on the trailer in just the right place for the chains and straps to connect without rubbing. The trailer has springs so I wasnt worried about the car itself. I drug it over 300 miles of bouncy backwoods road and interstate under repair with no problems and zero damage.
I would post pics but Uncle Sam has blocked photobucket, if I can find another site I will post to there.
I would post pics but Uncle Sam has blocked photobucket, if I can find another site I will post to there.
#10
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '08
This post explains the best way to tiedown a C3. The t-hook slots were installed by GM for a reason. I have towed my 71 to Ohio and back to Florida twice already using the factory slots with no problems. I load the car with the front wheels just forward of the inner fenderwell. I carry a tool cart and some other stuff in the front of the trailer so I set my tongue weight to 650 pounds. The front tiedowns are so far forward in my trailer (24') that I had to install two extra floor tiedowns about where the front bumper sits to keep the straps from hitting the front air dam. I also removed the short straps from the ratcheting end and attached the ratchets directly to the trailer tiedowns. I didn't really need to but I also installed two additional tiedown hooks in the rear of the trailer right behind where the beaver tail begins. I now strap the rear straight back and also a X pattern. Works very well. The important thing is to get the car positioned correctly. If you have ever had too much tail end weight and have the trailer try to wag the truck at 70MPH it will get your attention. Wish I had pictures but I don't.
#11
Le Mans Master
There's a lot of good info provided above regarding tying down your Corvette. Here's one other little tip that can help, especially for lowered cars. Place a couple of 2X10's about 24" long on the floor where the front tires will sit. It's amazing what a difference 1 & 3/4 inches can make when it comes to getting under the car and providing clearance for front spoilers.
I haul my C2, C3, C4, C5 and my son's C6 in this trailer and use the frame tie down points on each one. The "J" hooks make this very easy. I also carry my Miata auto-crosser in the trailer and with the factory provided tie downs loops, it's the easiest one of all to strap down. The 2X10's however are used for each of them.
Good luck... GUSTO
I haul my C2, C3, C4, C5 and my son's C6 in this trailer and use the frame tie down points on each one. The "J" hooks make this very easy. I also carry my Miata auto-crosser in the trailer and with the factory provided tie downs loops, it's the easiest one of all to strap down. The 2X10's however are used for each of them.
Good luck... GUSTO
Last edited by GUSTO14; 01-15-2008 at 06:33 PM.
#13
Melting Slicks
#14
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '08
always try and cross. I learned that from loading M1 tanks onto rail cars!!!
the 2x10s are a good idea too for those with smaller trailers, will help your door clear the obnoxious occasional fender when you go to get out.
the 2x10s are a good idea too for those with smaller trailers, will help your door clear the obnoxious occasional fender when you go to get out.
#18
Melting Slicks
#19
Team Owner
In front, I hook up my lower a-arms and in the rear, I hook the tie downs to slots in the frame (just before the gas-tank crossmember)