AWilson

I was thinking of something like that too. I'll give it a try.

vettedan

Here's some of my 68 frame off. I hope to have the body back on by this winter.
before:

After: I even clear coated the pumpkin.






LS1 Trial fit with body:


http://www.vetteworksonline.com/frame.htm

72LS1Vette

I bought a really nice 73 auto trans frame. It cleaned up nicely and the removeable crossmember is ideal for the T56 install.




BTW, I saved a lot of weight by going to the all-wood rear suspension.

The original frame is going into the shed with the other original parts that I'm mothballing in case a future owner wants to return the car to stock form.



Rick B.

brs6482

I had my frame acid dipped and fixed any thin spots. Then had it primed and painted. It turned out ok.

Ron R

Are you doing a "back to factory specs" type of restoration?

If not, and you do need to go with a new frame, you should consider the SR-III frame over a factory one:


http://www.sriiimotorsports.com/196382corvette.html

68 NJConv 454

I used a 3" and 4" wire wheel and drill to get my frame down to metal, then ruffed it up and used POR-15. The POR-15 went on great and I followed every steup but I am noticing when I lift the car up by a floor jack the paint will peel on the frame at the point of contact.
I have no problem with it chipping but it should come off as a peel.

If I could do it over again, I would have spent the money on powder coating. BUT I don't beleive they powder coat the inside of the frame. Power coating process uses a gun like a spray gun and the powdercoating media attaches to the outside of the metal then is baked. I don't know how they would get that media inside the frame.
Most times people will paint the outisde then take their frame to a lube shop where they insert grease or special rust preventative into the inside of the frame rails. Painting the inside is not recommended as it can trap rust, oxygen and water against the metal. Just my .02
I think you may have some of the dates on your pictures messed up.
You pulled the body in December of 2007 but you disassembled your rolling chasis in January of 2007?

Ron R

Try putting a couple of shop towels on the floor jack - that way the hard (and probably a little jagged) points on the jack aren't directly touching the metal. It will still have plenty of friction and won't go anywhere, just kind of softens the impact a little bit.

ltone72

Here's mine.

ENG40

I have to agree with Steve, my frame would not stand up to the hammer and screwdriver test either so I replaced it.
Your frame has been rusting from the inside as well as the outside and if you are going to keep it you should do what ever you can to preserve whats left of it.
AWilson mentioned the alkaline emersion process which will coat the frame all around and stop any further degradation. It might cost you more today but down the road you will be glad you did.
This is a picture of my 68 when I replaced the frame back in 87 which cost a little over $1,000 for a new GM replacement. (now it's $4,000)
Sorry for the picture quality as they are scanned photos.
I coated the new frame with Rustlok steel primer which is as good now as the day I put it on.

AWilson

Your right, anything saying January was actually December. So in reality it all happened pretty quickly. Not over a year,,,,and in reverse order!!!

Thanks!

LeMans Pete

Where did you get your frame acid dipped??? If you don't mind could you tell me how much $$$? Maybe in a PM.

68 NJConv 454

I was doing that but I kept having issues with my SpeedDirect clutch linkage so I kept having to jack the car up in the same spot to gain access, I think the repeated friction on that spot just started to peel the paint.

I'm not pulling my frame again just to powdercoat it so I plan on finding a nice rubber mat that I can cut and keep on the tongue of the floor jack to protect the frame.

stinger12

I had the same problm with my por15. I used it on my control arms and followed every damn step in the instructions. I waited 5 days for it to dry and said screw it and took it to the powdercoater...best choice I ever made. I recently did a por15 test with some scrap metal...I let it fully dry and I still had the same problem with it...it scratched down to bare metyal very easily. I still have all the materials sitting on a shelf. I'm sure it is a great product, maybe I just got a bad batch or something. I powdercoated absolutely everything on my frame, and I couldn't be any happier with its durability and looks

cardo0

That frame looks a little rusty and in good shape. Don't see enough reason why u would do a frame off. Its easy to catch the while i'm at it itice bug. Man that a ton of work but alot of Sharks have rot just in the lower side rails where the body mounts connect the body to frame. How does the bird cage look?

cardo0

AWilson

Yea, it was one of the harder decisions. But I figured it would be easier to do all the work underneath. I just want it done and it's a hobby. I never took a car apart like this so I just wanted to do it. I guess thats a great reason all by itself! In no way is the amount of work really a concern for me. I have done much bigger tougher jobs. But it is definitely a project.
The base of the bird cage, down in the foot area looks very good. I haven't taken out the windshield and all the trim yet to see what that looks like. That too has to be done because the windshield is broken anyway.

Jud Chapin

Boy, you guys are doing some really nice work here.

Rich72

Any more updates

international blue

On the contrary, I see every reason to do a frame off on your car Alan, because the car that came down the line before it really needed one and was in similar condition!

1272, the car before Allen's getting fitted with the L88 Richmond setup

Zychron

Is the original posters car #1271? If so, why does it have frame reinforcements in the rear kickups (see them in the body lift shots)? If your car is #1272, I assume you added yours?

vettedan

Fuel Pump is ready to feed the the LS1.