FLYNRYN

Well,

Moving right along with my 1969's upgrade to VB and P's Performance Plus Package. The front suspension came out easily; Lars' article was a big help. Now its time to remove the Upper control arms, and I have to decide whether to pull the radiator shroud, or to remove the studs. I was hoping to get feedback on 2 questions.

1. How difficult is it to remove the shroud? Mine is new (installed a year ago) and doesn't look tough, but I've heard it can be a nightmare.

2. Has anyone removed studs before? I can't seem to get a clamp in there...but I think I can wrench 'em out. Are they expensive to replace? Easy to reinstall?

Any info. would be appreciated. Thanks!

Durango_Boy

I have never removed the studs before so I can just relay my experience with removing a fan shroud. Not fun. It was a pain in the butt and I got lots of fun cuts and scrapes.

If someone thinks studs would be easier then I would tend to believe them.

lars

The radiator and shroud is not fun to pull. I've always been able to push the studs out using a socket and a clamp. If you can't get a clamp in there to press them out in this fashion, you can do something that's a little bit "Bubba", but it works:
The studs are knurled and pressed into the frame bracket. If you take a 1/2" drive impact gun to the head of the studs, you can carefully (using very short "bursts" of the impact gun) rock the studs back and forth ("in" and "out" on the impact gun direction) until the studs loosen up. You don't want to hit them so hard that thay actually turn and spin - just "zap" them with short bursts in each direction a few times, and they will loosen up. You can then simply slip them out. This will mess up the knurling a little on the studs, but if you install them "clocked" off a little, they will press back in. Or, you can replace them. Works every time, and very easy to do (quick).
Lars

Van Steel

Remove the studs. I think original replacement studs are like $18 for all 4 with new locking nuts.

big_G

My preferred method is to use a slide hammer with a 90* hook attachment. Put a nut on the threads to protect them. Position the slide hammer under the upper a-arm. A few good pops and the stud is free, and reusable.

Van Steel

Thats what we use when we do them here.

FLYNRYN

AH, thanks for the replies. Now I'm beginning to understand. So, the studs have a rough surface on the shank, and they are installed by pressing them into the frame.....Why not just use a bolt and nut? Are the replacement studs installed the same way? Also, using Lars' method, what is the worst case scenario? Say.....I get too trigger happy with the impact gun....is there anything I should worry about?

big_G

Only draw-back to the impact method is you lose the knurled feature, making tightening the nuts a problem for you and the alignment shop. You will need a socket and extension on the bolt, tough to do with the wheel on the car.

SanDiegoPaul

Mine were fine when I did the front end a couple summers ago. Splines didn't get hurt at all when I pulled the studs out.

AzMotorhead

To answer a above question. The studs are knurled to the fram to keep them from spinning so when the alignment is done all that you need to do is wrench the nuts. If you had to try to hold the bolt head it would be very tough because the A arm lays over the top of the heads.
My .02 buy new studs and knock the old ones out using a BFH should only take 1 or 2 hits. draw the new studs in with a free running nut

TJ76

How about doing what I do, Put a sacraficial nut on the end of the bolt and tap in straight out. No knurling damage at all! Works great for me!
TJ

vettfixr

There's a very simple way of removing the studs that I've used in the past with success. All you need is a deep socket and a c clamp. Put the socket over the head of the stud and mount the c clamp so it forces the stud into the socket as you tighten it. You should put a nut over the end of the stud to protect the threads. Make sure you have a sturdy c clamp that won't bend as you use it and make sure it has a long enough handle so you can get a reasonable amount of torque on it. Once the stud breaks and starts to move it becomes easier to get out.

SARASOTA SAM

You can JUST get a 6" to 8" ring spanner on them from the top,tends to be in one position though.The crank of the ring needs to be about 1/2" and about 80-90 degrees just to slip into the crack and locate on the head of the bolt.Its a bit fiddly but it works-ive been doing this daily for last 3-weeks(dont ask!)once i found the correct ring.
Have a look at Loctite.com the commercial stuff for metal and spline repair (not thread lock) that stuff works but hard to break if studs need removing again (it will though at about 100lbs sq inch if you dont use too much otherwise you might have to warm em up a bit first.

I'm Batman

I had one get loose so that it wouldn't grab in the frame hole, even with a new stud. I wrapped a bit of brass shim stock around the splines and drove the bolt in with a big hammer and brass drift. It tightened up nicely.

lars

The problem is, you can't get a direct hit on the studs due to the fan shroud - it's not possible to whack them out like that on a C3 on the passenger side.


This is the method I recommend in my front end paper, but he's saying he can't get a C-clamp in there with a socket as I outline in the paper... the reason for his post.


If you spin the stud and destroy the knurling feature, the stud will come out, but the new ones will not stay in there tight and can rotate when you try tightening/loosening the nut. This will make it a real bear for the alignment shop when they try loosening the nuts. If this happens, you can install the new studs and then put 2 tack welds to secure the stud heads to the frame. This will prevent them from rotating, and the welds can be cut if you ever need to pull the studs again.

SmokinBBC

Well then damn, call me Bubba...did this now on 2 vets without a problem and reused the studs with no issues....

ed_in_pa

Anyone have a picture of the C-clamp setup. I can't see how that would work.

rafalc

I would remove the shroud. Remove the fan and clutch, remove all bolts that hold the shroud in place. Cant remember if you also have to remove the bottom radiator hose which would mean you have to drain it. Pull up on the shroud then rotate it so it is side up. This may give you enough room. You may also have to remove the alt belt and move the alt out of the way to make things easier.

doctorgene

Yes Sir; I just installed new upper A-arms in a 1977, I just unhooked the upper hose, & unbolted the shroud, I did not remove it. I was able, to just get the A-arms out without removing the A-arm bolts. On My 1982 I did the same thing, but I did remove the front A-arm bolt on the drivers side, because I was told I had to. I did not remove the one on the riders side. I did remove the Alt. & the A/C compressor. I left the A/C compressor off, so that the frame shop could reset my caster & camber easier on the front end. Have a great day. Gene

ed_in_pa

Would you mind giving me an idea of how many bolts and there locations?

Thanks