UPDATE: Hooker sidepipe removal
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
UPDATE: Hooker sidepipe removal
Well, I've soaked it in penetrant for a couple of days, whacked the bracket with wood and hammers, and it still hasn't budged. I'll squirt it a couple more times today, give it some more hits, and go back to trying the heat tomorrow. I'll keep the fire extinguisher handy!
If anyone has any more ideas, please chime in.
If anyone has any more ideas, please chime in.
#3
Burning Brakes
I saw a thread a few years ago that I did not keep. It showed how a guy took threaded rod along with some hose clamps. He used rubber to protect the pipes and clamped the hose clamps on to the side pipes and headers. The threaded rods were used to expand/remove the pipes.
He had a picture, Hopefully I haven't confused you.
He had a picture, Hopefully I haven't confused you.
#5
Instructor
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Part breakage is just weakness leaving my Stingray
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Here is what I did with the same issue. This won't be easy to explain but I'll try.
I bought two of the 4" rubber couplers that are used for plumbing. These come with two hose clamps attached. I also bought a device that is used to tighten wires. I don't know what these are called but they have two treaded eye bolts that screw into a center piece. When the center piece is turned the eyebolts get closer together or further appart depending upon which way they are turned.
I removed the hose clamps from the coupling and cut the rubber on one side. This allowed me to wrap the rubber around the pipe and the collector. One coupler on the pipe and one on the collector. I then attached the hose clamps, but I ran the two inner hose clamps through the eye bolt on the wire tensioner device. Once all the clamps were tight, I began to twist the tensioner which puts steady pressure on the pipe/collector joint. I alternated between taps on the wooden block and twists on the tensioner. No heat needed for this one man job, just the right tools.
I know that won't be easy to understand, but hopefully will give you a starting point for further questions.
I bought two of the 4" rubber couplers that are used for plumbing. These come with two hose clamps attached. I also bought a device that is used to tighten wires. I don't know what these are called but they have two treaded eye bolts that screw into a center piece. When the center piece is turned the eyebolts get closer together or further appart depending upon which way they are turned.
I removed the hose clamps from the coupling and cut the rubber on one side. This allowed me to wrap the rubber around the pipe and the collector. One coupler on the pipe and one on the collector. I then attached the hose clamps, but I ran the two inner hose clamps through the eye bolt on the wire tensioner device. Once all the clamps were tight, I began to twist the tensioner which puts steady pressure on the pipe/collector joint. I alternated between taps on the wooden block and twists on the tensioner. No heat needed for this one man job, just the right tools.
I know that won't be easy to understand, but hopefully will give you a starting point for further questions.
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: Wichita, KS
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I saved a copy of the instructions for making a removal tool. Send an e-mail to smericle@***.net and I'll send you a copy.
#8
Melting Slicks
Try this...
Unbolt the sidetube hardware that clamps them to the collectors and to the frame rails. Then, soak the header collector/side tube joint generously with PB Blaster over night. Wrap the sidetube ends in rags to protect your paint and, with the header portions still bolted to the heads, move the sidetubes around in small circles and rocking them up and down while pulling them toward the rear of the car. They should come off with a little work.
If you plan to reinstall them, make sure you coat the joint with hi-temp antisieze before reassembly.
If you plan to reinstall them, make sure you coat the joint with hi-temp antisieze before reassembly.
Last edited by Marks69BB; 05-28-2007 at 03:08 AM.