The Fusible Link Thread [merged]
05-09-2007, 03:18 PM
#61
Instructor
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Thanks for the info.....I got it to work with the link wire I bought at N.A.P.A.. It was the Mother of all wiring jobs, that's for sure. How do I go about putting the relays in for the headlights,...I sure don't want to do this again!!!! Regards and Thanks, Larry
05-09-2007, 03:49 PM
#62
Team Owner
You cut out the link? Or you cut out and replaced the link? If you just cut it out, your work with the wiring probably "made" a ground where the problem really existed. I never heard of cutting out part of a wire and fixing something else.??
On the other hand, if you overloaded the circuit by cranking a lot under heavy load (very cold oil is very thick) [rather than trying with several short bursts], you might have fried a link. I'm just not quite sure what you are indicating.
On the other hand, if you overloaded the circuit by cranking a lot under heavy load (very cold oil is very thick) [rather than trying with several short bursts], you might have fried a link. I'm just not quite sure what you are indicating.
05-09-2007, 03:53 PM
#63
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I cut the wire on either side of the link and spliced it together. I really doubt that cold oil was a problem because it was a really old car with bad rings. My point being that ther are no absolutes in life.
Back to original posters question. I don't know if they are commercially available but we used to build seat motors for cars and they had a thermally activated contactors. This would prevent motor burn up/fire because it trips by temperature, not current draw. They would also automatically reset.
Back to original posters question. I don't know if they are commercially available but we used to build seat motors for cars and they had a thermally activated contactors. This would prevent motor burn up/fire because it trips by temperature, not current draw. They would also automatically reset.
Last edited by Freepop; 05-09-2007 at 03:59 PM.
05-09-2007, 04:18 PM
#64
check out this site for some very good info . . . http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
you can buy relays at NAPA and other stores pretty cheap (about $5), or you can spend more (about $20) and get some that are weather sealed, your choice. there is a forum post somewhere showing a headlight switch that caught fire! basically use the old current carrying headlight wires to switch the relays. run the power wire from the junction block thru the relay to the lights. don't forget to upgrade the grounds!
you can buy relays at NAPA and other stores pretty cheap (about $5), or you can spend more (about $20) and get some that are weather sealed, your choice. there is a forum post somewhere showing a headlight switch that caught fire! basically use the old current carrying headlight wires to switch the relays. run the power wire from the junction block thru the relay to the lights. don't forget to upgrade the grounds!
05-09-2007, 10:28 PM
#70
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St. Jude Donor '07
Hey Batman;
Just an opinion here, but this is what I would do.
An optima is a good idea, but I would not swap it if your battery is good.
Make sure your lead from the alternator to the battery is in good shape and large enough to carry the current for the amps and battery charge current, that will be 20amps + the amps, probably a 14 or maybe a 12 ga wire. Put a fuse link from the term block to the battery and tie the amps to the term block, they should be fuse protected.
Run another 12 ga from the alt to the battery cable on the starter and protect it with a fuse link or a CB.
What that willl do is split the load from the alternator between the 2 circuits and shorten the current path for everything else in the car. I asume you already have done the relay conversion for the lights, fans etc, if not you should do that too.
I'll dig up the drawing I am going to use for mine, more or less the same thing as above. Its still under construction, but I'll post it tonight,
Just an opinion here, but this is what I would do.
An optima is a good idea, but I would not swap it if your battery is good.
Make sure your lead from the alternator to the battery is in good shape and large enough to carry the current for the amps and battery charge current, that will be 20amps + the amps, probably a 14 or maybe a 12 ga wire. Put a fuse link from the term block to the battery and tie the amps to the term block, they should be fuse protected.
Run another 12 ga from the alt to the battery cable on the starter and protect it with a fuse link or a CB.
What that willl do is split the load from the alternator between the 2 circuits and shorten the current path for everything else in the car. I asume you already have done the relay conversion for the lights, fans etc, if not you should do that too.
I'll dig up the drawing I am going to use for mine, more or less the same thing as above. Its still under construction, but I'll post it tonight,
Mid 90s Cadillac. Make sure you get one with two wires going to the plug - one large wire and one wire going to the middle terminal. Z-man has a good page on the upgrade. http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zma...ternator01.htm
That plastic fan is a piece of crap. I replaced mine with a two-piece steel fan and disc set from a CS130.
They should all be 140. It's stamped on the case in small letters. Some are clocked differently than others.
05-10-2007, 11:18 AM
#71
Melting Slicks
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Here's a simple way of accomplishing what you're trying to do. It uses a
supplementary terminal block from Jeg's. It should work well if you're not running a huge amp(s). If you are then we'll need to revise the drawing.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...58462_-1_10409
supplementary terminal block from Jeg's. It should work well if you're not running a huge amp(s). If you are then we'll need to revise the drawing.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...58462_-1_10409
05-10-2007, 01:28 PM
#72
Le Mans Master
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I'm gonna have to see that diagram...I'm not visualizing this well. The starter-battery cable and battery-ground cables are brand new, so they're more than up to the task of carrying the power, and my new top-mount battery terminals have set screws for hooking up additional wires. I just want to make sure that the alternator-battery connection is up to snuff, and my wiring is in a rather decayed condition. I have a bunch of high-quality power wire around in several different gages - I was thinking 4 gage from the battery to the starter should be sufficient.
Mid 90s Cadillac. Make sure you get one with two wires going to the plug - one large wire and one wire going to the middle terminal. Z-man has a good page on the upgrade. http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zma...ternator01.htm
That plastic fan is a piece of crap. I replaced mine with a two-piece steel fan and disc set from a CS130.
They should all be 140. It's stamped on the case in small letters. Some are clocked differently than others.
Mid 90s Cadillac. Make sure you get one with two wires going to the plug - one large wire and one wire going to the middle terminal. Z-man has a good page on the upgrade. http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zma...ternator01.htm
That plastic fan is a piece of crap. I replaced mine with a two-piece steel fan and disc set from a CS130.
They should all be 140. It's stamped on the case in small letters. Some are clocked differently than others.
OK, this is a work in progress and all this laptop has on it is Paint.
This will be a metal panel about 6" x 8" or so. What it does is replace the fuse links, rerout the power distribution for the whole car, adds relays for headlights and a dc control for the fans. I also added a relay for switched 12v for whatever and another relay for spare as long as I am in there.
The DC control input is protected with a circuit breaker, same thing for the headlights.
The fuse links are replaced by resetable circuit breakers, I am taking the wires from the main harness and connecting them thru this instead of from the fuse links, all the power stays under the hood instead of getting routed to the back of the car then back up front.
I also like to have a remote start switch under there so I put one in and there is a kill switch for safety.
This thing is going to mount in the fender in front of the skirt on the drivers side.
The alternator will have 1 #6 wire going to the Term Post. The existing battery wire from the alternator to the battery wil be moved over to the term post.
The other term post is connected to the switched 12v relay for convinience
Everything except the battery, Alternator and Temp sensor go thru the terminal strips on each end.
I have had this rolling around in my head for a while, BJ's gizmo on his car gave me the idea for the format and someone else has these circuit breakers, Photovette I think so Thanks Guys and I used the headlight relay idea all over the place in here.
So, use it if you want, got better ideas let me know, I have all the parts but not assembled yet.
05-10-2007, 06:06 PM
#73
Drifting
From reading through this thread I get the impression that there are some here that consider the fusible link to be a liability. This is in error. The fusible link is designed to protect the rest of the electrical system and ultimately the vehicle from overload and fire. It is really not a good idea to replace a fusible link with a fuse or circuit breaker.
The hot side terminal connection of a fuse block can degrade over time and built up resistance. This connection then heats up and melts the fuse housing, possibly causing a fire. The fuse can not protect this circuit. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
Under gross overload conditions circuit breakers have been known to weld their internals together before they could trip open. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
When installed properly fusible links CAN NOT fail to perform their function. In sacrificing themselves they keep your car from, possible, burning to the pavement.
IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO BYPASS FUSIBLE LINKS!
BigBlockk
Later.....
The hot side terminal connection of a fuse block can degrade over time and built up resistance. This connection then heats up and melts the fuse housing, possibly causing a fire. The fuse can not protect this circuit. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
Under gross overload conditions circuit breakers have been known to weld their internals together before they could trip open. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
When installed properly fusible links CAN NOT fail to perform their function. In sacrificing themselves they keep your car from, possible, burning to the pavement.
IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO BYPASS FUSIBLE LINKS!
BigBlockk
Later.....
05-10-2007, 11:52 PM
#74
Le Mans Master
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From reading through this thread I get the impression that there are some here that consider the fusible link to be a liability. This is in error. The fusible link is designed to protect the rest of the electrical system and ultimately the vehicle from overload and fire. It is really not a good idea to replace a fusible link with a fuse or circuit breaker.
The hot side terminal connection of a fuse block can degrade over time and built up resistance. This connection then heats up and melts the fuse housing, possibly causing a fire. The fuse can not protect this circuit. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
Under gross overload conditions circuit breakers have been known to weld their internals together before they could trip open. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
When installed properly fusible links CAN NOT fail to perform their function. In sacrificing themselves they keep your car from, possible, burning to the pavement.
IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO BYPASS FUSIBLE LINKS!
BigBlockk
Later.....
The hot side terminal connection of a fuse block can degrade over time and built up resistance. This connection then heats up and melts the fuse housing, possibly causing a fire. The fuse can not protect this circuit. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
Under gross overload conditions circuit breakers have been known to weld their internals together before they could trip open. Your car, possibly, burns to the pavement.
When installed properly fusible links CAN NOT fail to perform their function. In sacrificing themselves they keep your car from, possible, burning to the pavement.
IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO BYPASS FUSIBLE LINKS!
BigBlockk
Later.....
that said, a properly soldered and or crimped connection to the hot side should NEVER fail, if it does it is because someone did something wrong or some other catastrophic failure has ocured, chemical exposure, heat exposure more than what was designed for, impact damage, whatever. GM does NOT have the lock on electrical design, it is a cost/mechanical compromise. I think the $40 CBs I am useing are a better design than the $6 fuse links, JMO. But then again I don't have to deal with the same compromises GM did, those guys are way smarter than I am.
The fuse links are there for gross overload protection only, not the ocasional hight current incident. In 36 yrs I have only run into a shorted circuit breaker once that I recall.
My panel is what I am doing and I concider it a better, but more expensive design than GMs.
The fuse links in my opinion are not a liability, they are originals in my 26 yr old car. They are just not the best choice IMO for electrical design.
For instance: if you accidentally short your timing light on the alternator on a sunday evening...burned fuse link...your done til monday am sometime depending on where you live.
With a CB....OOPS! I guess I got to reset the breaker and drive my car towork monday am.
OK, off my soapbox, Capt Morgan is back in the box...
05-11-2007, 10:36 AM
#77
Drifting
I guess I should have been clearer on this. The connection I am talking about on the fuse block is between the fuse and it's terminal. When the fuse is in there for years and years the connection can get rotten causing the terminal to overheat.
General Motors simply tried to make a simple system that could not fail. I think they did a pretty good job.
BigBlockk
Later.....
General Motors simply tried to make a simple system that could not fail. I think they did a pretty good job.
BigBlockk
Later.....
05-11-2007, 10:52 AM
#78
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Looking at my 81, wires look melted etc. One fuse link on a red/white. One fuse link on two wires, red and a red/black. If I were to replace with fuses, what size. If replaced with circuit breakers, what size (part #) Also in this harness, there are two wires that have been cut, a blue and a black. Where are they supposed to go? Can anyone send me a wiring diagram for an 81 or tell me where one is on some web site etc. Anyway, headed off to the parts house shortly. Thanks!!!
05-11-2007, 12:43 PM
#80
Le Mans Master
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Ahh, ok, I agree. They did a pretty good job, 99% of these things last for decades as long as you don't jack with the connector.
Since jack is my middle name I am improving on their design.
Since jack is my middle name I am improving on their design.
I guess I should have been clearer on this. The connection I am talking about on the fuse block is between the fuse and it's terminal. When the fuse is in there for years and years the connection can get rotten causing the terminal to overheat.
General Motors simply tried to make a simple system that could not fail. I think they did a pretty good job.
BigBlockk
Later.....
General Motors simply tried to make a simple system that could not fail. I think they did a pretty good job.
BigBlockk
Later.....