SuprJames

Hey guys, need some ideas here. Put the body back on the '72 frame and still in the stages of identifying issues. One I haven't figured out yet is how am I going to get the filter, MAF sensor, and cold air ducting in this car. I have 4.75" between the core support and 90mm (about 4.5") throttlebody. Complicating things, the dip in the hood is right in front of the throttlebody.





Tick mark towrds back on hood is where throttlebody is when hood is closed.



I'm thinking a 90 degree bend straight down with a MAF at the end and then a "Y" pipe going to each fender for cold air. Not sure all that will fit by the time the radiator, fans, and all are put in. Any ideas would be helpful. Want to kinda get a plan together before I order the new core support. Also, no hood pins. I want to be able to open the hood normally.



Some background (more pics added to this thread in a few)

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2+LS1+Magnuson

74batmobile

that sound like the best plan maybe keep each fillament next/behind the left and right grills......justmake sure the tubing after the Y doesnt move around alot....so when ever u want to change the fliters just pull out the grills or something like that ..........goodluck bad *** engine

Eddie 70

Someone on here cut a notch right in the center of the radiator support, notched the radiator and ran the intake right up the center. The end result is similiar to the C5 intake. I just can't remember who it was. Maybe they will chime in.

By the way, you are going over the top and I love it. It is going to be one nice hot rod when you get it done. I look forward to watching this one come along.

7T1vette

Try this one on for size.... Cut two rectangular holes in the sloped, leading edge of the L-88 riser on the hood [one on either side of the center]. Put a frame with some stainless steel mesh on them to keep big stuff out of the air inlet. Construct something like a plenum on the underside of the hood in that area which will house a filter for incoming air. Then put a 90 deg. 'snout' on the MAF inlet which will seal to the bottom of the plenum. That should make for a BAD looking hood and a functional one too. You wouldn't want to drive it in the rain...it would soak and block the filter. But you're not going to drive it in the rain, anyway....ARE YOU?

SuprJames

I remember that, and idealy that's what I would like to do. I don't believe he could open his hood all the way though, unless that was someone else. I don't mind cutting mine up, I just want to still be able to open the hood.

Thanks for the support. I look back at these threads for encouragment, because MAN I keep thinking about how far I still have to go LOL

SuprJames

I've thought about that, but I probably will get caught in the rain every now and then. I plan on making the Hot Rod Power Tour in this and actually hitting the track a bit. I would definitely love to make a functional scoop out of the hood. I've even thought about cutting out that "dip" in the hood and just making it smooth.

7T1vette

If you open up the area [dip] behind the hood riser, it would work OK at normal speeds. At racing speeds, you might end up with a negative pressure area there (because of the 'ramped' leading edge) and detract from inlet air to the intake system. That's why the original Chevy "ram air" designs used the rear of the hood where the air hits the windshield....it creates a positive pressure area which increases air density. Maybe you could put a "T" inlet on the MAF and duct the [now] side mounted inlets to the rear of the hood area taking advantage of that high pressure air.

SuprJames

That's an idea. If I could somehow bond the ducting to the hood and have the pipe either flexible enough to move with the hood when I open it or seal against a small box in the front, that would keep the engine bay pretty clean still. HHMMM....

68427

Here's a couple of ideas:

Cut a pie-shaped section out of the casting between the blower and the throttle body and reweld so the throttle body inlet points down toward the front away from the hood also allowing a straighter shot for the y-pipe to the two filters in each front corner.

Or, get a flat hood and a sawzall and allow the blower and inlet pipe to stick out and be proud.

Big2Bird

That's the way

Hadez

Is was 70LS1 in Washington that had done this to his radiator. I am hopping to do a LSx swap later this year also and have been thinking that I could adjust the mounting brackets at the top of the radiator support to tilt in towards the fan belts more creating enough clearance to run the C4/C5 air intake over the top of the radiator support very similar to the C4 & C5's OEM setup. Now I just have to figure out how much I need to tilt the radiator support to get enough clearance.

Budman68

Here is mine. Not much cold air, but after watching my hand scanner the intake air was pretty close to outside at cruise speeds. I'm adding the Z06 scoop now and it should greatly reduce intake air.

[IMG][/IMG]
I made this out of 18 wheeler 4" exhaust and rubber fittings. SS clamps. 4" K & N filter.

[IMG][/IMG]

Twin_Turbo

Why not fabricate a pipe that you can weld into the upper part of the rad frame? I'm probably going to do this for a 502 ramjet install, from my measurements it should fit with an L88 hood.

shafrs3

Should be plenty of room between the L88 hood and the top of the radiator support for air, the bigger challange will be the air cleaner location.

PatsLs1vette

actually me and jeff 70ls1 cut our rad supports and used a c5 air intake to run over it then down to a cone style filter,worked pretty good,jeff couldnt open his hood all the way but i could.

SuprJames

That might work, and looks pretty damn good. See what I mean now about the difference between the C5 maggie and the Hot Rod? With the Hot Rod the throttle body would be sitting over the engine instead of way out in the front.

70 LS1

Bringing this one back to the top. Just for clarification, neither Pat or I cut the radiator, just the support.

Here's an old picture of how it looks.

68 NJConv 454

Thats what I was thinking. If anything refab your radiator support brackets and drop the radiator down a tad as long as your hoses still reached so the intake could run over the radiator/support and your hood can still open.

70 LS1

The problem I have with the hood is not the ducting running over the radiator, but the very front of the hood hits the MAF and filter. If I ran a longer tube between the maf and the cobra hood thing it should clear no problem.

Another trick you can do is lean the radiator and support back more and you would have way more clearance.

68 NJConv 454

Here's something you can use....
http://www.madvet.com/-/shop?frame=1.2
Just not sure about the hood closing/opening with this unit.