Painting the oil valley ??
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Painting the oil valley ??
I am sure my terminology is not correct, but straighten me out here. I will pick up my block from the machine shop in a few days. I have heard of PAINTING the "oil valley" under the intake manifold. Is there any value to this and if so....what kind of paint?
Thanks.........
Thanks.........
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Columbia Missouri
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I see no point in painting it. A: No one will ever see it unless your intake manifold is off. B: If you don't use the right kind of paint, the heat and oil will pull the paint right off the block where it'll mix with the oil and flow throughout the block, eventually adding to the mess in the oil filter.
#3
Racer
I dont know what it is called, but I have had 3 blocks done with this treatment and it stays on, and does not come off. I will call the machine shop, and find out what it is. I am sure someone on here will know. But on my blocks, no problems.
#4
Team Owner
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Location: Columbia Missouri
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What you had done was probably a coating, not paint. Designed to slicken, if that's a word, the valley so the oil flows faster down over the cam and into the case.
This can be useful, but generally only for engines that maintain a high RPM for long perio0ds of time where most of the oil is pumped out of the pan and needs to be circulated as fast as possible.
#5
Race Director
they use paint called Glyptal or something like that it makes the oil runoff the walls faster.....
personnaly i would rather polish that area so it was smoother then put a painted surface in it....but people have been painting them for years
personnaly i would rather polish that area so it was smoother then put a painted surface in it....but people have been painting them for years
#6
GLYPTOL Sold by GE It's an electrical insulating enamel used on electrical motors.
#8
Drifting
It's called Glyptal Insulating Paint. It's made by GE for the electrical industry. I got some from an electrical contractor a long time ago, not sure where to buy it in retail. It's temperature and oil resistant, but you need to apply it (2 coats) after you receive the block back from machining and before you start assembly with oily parts. Overkill for a street car in my opinion.
#9
Drifting
I wouldn't bother,the risk of the paint not adhering properly outweighs any benefit you may get.However,cleaning up all the casting flash and deburring the oil drainback holes will help oil get back to the pan.
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
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Glyptal probably overkill for most here.
Glyptal P/N 1201A aerosol about $10/spray can at local/regional "GE Supply". When applied to a clean block, Glyptal will not come off. Gyptal locks-in casting grit & prevents accumulation of crud in rough cast. Do die-grind/file the valley returns ... then Gyptal a lot quicker than polishing valley ... works on webbing & under chain & around valve springs too. BTW ... for decades Harley used to coat inside of ALL new big twin engine cases w/Glyptal ... I haven't been in a new HD in years so I dunno 'bout now.
www.gesupply.com
www.glyptal.com
Glyptal P/N 1201A aerosol about $10/spray can at local/regional "GE Supply". When applied to a clean block, Glyptal will not come off. Gyptal locks-in casting grit & prevents accumulation of crud in rough cast. Do die-grind/file the valley returns ... then Gyptal a lot quicker than polishing valley ... works on webbing & under chain & around valve springs too. BTW ... for decades Harley used to coat inside of ALL new big twin engine cases w/Glyptal ... I haven't been in a new HD in years so I dunno 'bout now.
www.gesupply.com
www.glyptal.com
#13
Drifting
Glyptal is the stuff...it can be bought in aerosol or brush on...it is easy to apply and sticks very well indeed. Its inexpensive and easy to apply. I agree, the benefit probably cannot be measured in any reasonable way. I've done this to almost every engine I've ever built with no problems and will continue to do so.
My recommendation, do it if you want...or not...the effort and cost is low...the gain.. is probably just as low.
My recommendation, do it if you want...or not...the effort and cost is low...the gain.. is probably just as low.
#14
Le Mans Master
Back in the day, RHS would use Glyptal on heads and blocks and did not even brag about it in the advertising. It was just part of the process when they were heavy into crate engines. I would bet they did it to reduce warranty issues. Cheaper and faster than polishing the cast surface and still effective at preventing residual casting sand or cast iron particles from coming loose and entering the engine oil while allowing faster oil return to the pan. This is not unproven new technology.
If you want to put it on there, do it. It is easy and cheap.
Eastwood sells it if you can't find it locally.
-Mark.
If you want to put it on there, do it. It is easy and cheap.
Eastwood sells it if you can't find it locally.
-Mark.
#15
Back in the day, RHS would use Glyptal on heads and blocks and did not even brag about it in the advertising. It was just part of the process when they were heavy into crate engines. I would bet they did it to reduce warranty issues. Cheaper and faster than polishing the cast surface and still effective at preventing residual casting sand or cast iron particles from coming loose and entering the engine oil while allowing faster oil return to the pan. This is not unproven new technology.
If you want to put it on there, do it. It is easy and cheap.
Eastwood sells it if you can't find it locally.
-Mark.
If you want to put it on there, do it. It is easy and cheap.
Eastwood sells it if you can't find it locally.
-Mark.
#16
Racer
I rebuild large electric motors for a living. ( anywhere from 30-11,000hp) & use "glip" (as we call it). It is very durable if used on a clean surface. Alot of the reason for using it is for looks also. Makes the motor look nice & new. For those intrested here is a shot of a 11,000hp 1200rpm syncrinous motor that I worked on last year. 4160 volt 1500amps. & we even test ran it at the shop. I was a little nervous pulling the switch on the first test run. Had to get it rolling with the overhead hoist first & then hit the power. It weighs 63,000 lb
#17
Race Director
I rebuild large electric motors for a living. ( anywhere from 30-11,000hp) & use "glip" (as we call it). It is very durable if used on a clean surface. Alot of the reason for using it is for looks also. Makes the motor look nice & new. For those intrested here is a shot of a 11,000hp 1200rpm syncrinous motor that I worked on last year. 4160 volt 1500amps. & we even test ran it at the shop. I was a little nervous pulling the switch on the first test run. Had to get it rolling with the overhead hoist first & then hit the power. It weighs 63,000 lb
#18
Racer
Motors that large usually drive very large compressors that are used in nautral gas plants,CO2 plants etc. The compressors that these things drive make the motors look small. Some of these compressors have 6 cylinders with a 30" bore & a 40" stroke. However these are toys compared to the pictures that I have seen of engines used on container ships.
This paticular motor is a backup for an identical motor that is used at a plant in Pampa TX. I have heard that untill it gets up to speed that the lights in Pampa go dim. This motor makes about 48,000 ft/lb of torque.
This paticular motor is a backup for an identical motor that is used at a plant in Pampa TX. I have heard that untill it gets up to speed that the lights in Pampa go dim. This motor makes about 48,000 ft/lb of torque.
Last edited by Rdavis; 03-19-2007 at 10:53 PM.
#19
Yep. I was telling Bob I got to re-glip one in place, and change the brushes. 20,000 HP, 12,000volt two cylinder air compressor.
It corrects the power factor for the city of Baldwin Park.
Hats off to ya. That is HEAVY work. Is Bud Cope involved in this company?
It corrects the power factor for the city of Baldwin Park.
Hats off to ya. That is HEAVY work. Is Bud Cope involved in this company?
#20
Racer
Here's a link to the company I work for. http://brandonclark.com
Bud Cope does'nt ring a bell but we have several locations in Tx. & NM.
& I don't know all the people at the other locations.