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Painting the oil valley ??

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Old 03-19-2007, 09:24 AM
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fotyfobravo
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Default Painting the oil valley ??

I am sure my terminology is not correct, but straighten me out here. I will pick up my block from the machine shop in a few days. I have heard of PAINTING the "oil valley" under the intake manifold. Is there any value to this and if so....what kind of paint?

Thanks.........
Old 03-19-2007, 09:29 AM
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Durango_Boy
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I see no point in painting it. A: No one will ever see it unless your intake manifold is off. B: If you don't use the right kind of paint, the heat and oil will pull the paint right off the block where it'll mix with the oil and flow throughout the block, eventually adding to the mess in the oil filter.
Old 03-19-2007, 09:33 AM
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BLACK SHARK
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I dont know what it is called, but I have had 3 blocks done with this treatment and it stays on, and does not come off. I will call the machine shop, and find out what it is. I am sure someone on here will know. But on my blocks, no problems.
Old 03-19-2007, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BLACK SHARK
I dont know what it is called, but I have had 3 blocks done with this treatment and it stays on, and does not come off. I will call the machine shop, and find out what it is. I am sure someone on here will know. But on my blocks, no problems.

What you had done was probably a coating, not paint. Designed to slicken, if that's a word, the valley so the oil flows faster down over the cam and into the case.

This can be useful, but generally only for engines that maintain a high RPM for long perio0ds of time where most of the oil is pumped out of the pan and needs to be circulated as fast as possible.
Old 03-19-2007, 09:56 AM
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bobs77vet
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they use paint called Glyptal or something like that it makes the oil runoff the walls faster.....

personnaly i would rather polish that area so it was smoother then put a painted surface in it....but people have been painting them for years
Old 03-19-2007, 09:56 AM
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Big2Bird
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GLYPTOL Sold by GE It's an electrical insulating enamel used on electrical motors.
Old 03-19-2007, 09:56 AM
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fotyfobravo
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OK....that makes sense. Probably not an issue for a basic stock weekend driver.

Thanks.......Fred
Old 03-19-2007, 09:59 AM
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crazywelder
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Originally Posted by BLACK SHARK
I dont know what it is called, but I have had 3 blocks done with this treatment and it stays on, and does not come off. I will call the machine shop, and find out what it is. I am sure someone on here will know. But on my blocks, no problems.
It's called Glyptal Insulating Paint. It's made by GE for the electrical industry. I got some from an electrical contractor a long time ago, not sure where to buy it in retail. It's temperature and oil resistant, but you need to apply it (2 coats) after you receive the block back from machining and before you start assembly with oily parts. Overkill for a street car in my opinion.
Old 03-19-2007, 10:00 AM
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tfi racing
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I wouldn't bother,the risk of the paint not adhering properly outweighs any benefit you may get.However,cleaning up all the casting flash and deburring the oil drainback holes will help oil get back to the pan.
Old 03-19-2007, 10:02 AM
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I agree, polishing would be better. More work, but better than painting it.
Old 03-19-2007, 10:41 AM
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Glyptal probably overkill for most here.
Glyptal P/N 1201A aerosol about $10/spray can at local/regional "GE Supply". When applied to a clean block, Glyptal will not come off. Gyptal locks-in casting grit & prevents accumulation of crud in rough cast. Do die-grind/file the valley returns ... then Gyptal a lot quicker than polishing valley ... works on webbing & under chain & around valve springs too. BTW ... for decades Harley used to coat inside of ALL new big twin engine cases w/Glyptal ... I haven't been in a new HD in years so I dunno 'bout now.

www.gesupply.com

www.glyptal.com
Old 03-19-2007, 04:11 PM
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2000FRCZ19
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this is what i did a long time ago. using the same block for my next build. at least i will not have to worry about doing it again.

clicky


Last edited by 2000FRCZ19; 03-19-2007 at 04:13 PM.
Old 03-19-2007, 04:23 PM
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Glyptal is the stuff...it can be bought in aerosol or brush on...it is easy to apply and sticks very well indeed. Its inexpensive and easy to apply. I agree, the benefit probably cannot be measured in any reasonable way. I've done this to almost every engine I've ever built with no problems and will continue to do so.

My recommendation, do it if you want...or not...the effort and cost is low...the gain.. is probably just as low.

Old 03-19-2007, 08:46 PM
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stingr69
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Back in the day, RHS would use Glyptal on heads and blocks and did not even brag about it in the advertising. It was just part of the process when they were heavy into crate engines. I would bet they did it to reduce warranty issues. Cheaper and faster than polishing the cast surface and still effective at preventing residual casting sand or cast iron particles from coming loose and entering the engine oil while allowing faster oil return to the pan. This is not unproven new technology.

If you want to put it on there, do it. It is easy and cheap.

Eastwood sells it if you can't find it locally.

-Mark.
Old 03-19-2007, 08:52 PM
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Big2Bird
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Originally Posted by stingr69
Back in the day, RHS would use Glyptal on heads and blocks and did not even brag about it in the advertising. It was just part of the process when they were heavy into crate engines. I would bet they did it to reduce warranty issues. Cheaper and faster than polishing the cast surface and still effective at preventing residual casting sand or cast iron particles from coming loose and entering the engine oil while allowing faster oil return to the pan. This is not unproven new technology.

If you want to put it on there, do it. It is easy and cheap.

Eastwood sells it if you can't find it locally.

-Mark.
Yep. We do it on T's because it improves the "splash" type oil system. It seals the porous surface. On a galley,eh.
Old 03-19-2007, 10:15 PM
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I rebuild large electric motors for a living. ( anywhere from 30-11,000hp) & use "glip" (as we call it). It is very durable if used on a clean surface. Alot of the reason for using it is for looks also. Makes the motor look nice & new. For those intrested here is a shot of a 11,000hp 1200rpm syncrinous motor that I worked on last year. 4160 volt 1500amps. & we even test ran it at the shop. I was a little nervous pulling the switch on the first test run. Had to get it rolling with the overhead hoist first & then hit the power. It weighs 63,000 lb
Old 03-19-2007, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Rdavis
I rebuild large electric motors for a living. ( anywhere from 30-11,000hp) & use "glip" (as we call it). It is very durable if used on a clean surface. Alot of the reason for using it is for looks also. Makes the motor look nice & new. For those intrested here is a shot of a 11,000hp 1200rpm syncrinous motor that I worked on last year. 4160 volt 1500amps. & we even test ran it at the shop. I was a little nervous pulling the switch on the first test run. Had to get it rolling with the overhead hoist first & then hit the power. It weighs 63,000 lb
ok what do you use that in?

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Old 03-19-2007, 10:46 PM
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Motors that large usually drive very large compressors that are used in nautral gas plants,CO2 plants etc. The compressors that these things drive make the motors look small. Some of these compressors have 6 cylinders with a 30" bore & a 40" stroke. However these are toys compared to the pictures that I have seen of engines used on container ships.
This paticular motor is a backup for an identical motor that is used at a plant in Pampa TX. I have heard that untill it gets up to speed that the lights in Pampa go dim. This motor makes about 48,000 ft/lb of torque.

Last edited by Rdavis; 03-19-2007 at 10:53 PM.
Old 03-19-2007, 11:02 PM
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Big2Bird
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Yep. I was telling Bob I got to re-glip one in place, and change the brushes. 20,000 HP, 12,000volt two cylinder air compressor.
It corrects the power factor for the city of Baldwin Park.
Hats off to ya. That is HEAVY work. Is Bud Cope involved in this company?
Old 03-19-2007, 11:55 PM
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Rdavis
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Yep. I was telling Bob I got to re-glip one in place, and change the brushes. 20,000 HP, 12,000volt two cylinder air compressor.
It corrects the power factor for the city of Baldwin Park.
Hats off to ya. That is HEAVY work. Is Bud Cope involved in this company?
Must be one heak of a compressor! We don't work on to many machines over 4160volt as that is the capacity of our test panel. However we right now are doing a bearing job on a 13,200 volt generator. Over the last couple of years I have been working a lot of generators out of wind turbines. They look small from a distance but just the generator is about 7 feel long & about 10,000lb. Was that air compressor you mentioned useing a DC motor? We work on DC's from time to time, they are a diffrent animal. I'm still learning about them.They are scarry. If you loose your power to the fields it can become a bomb.
Here's a link to the company I work for. http://brandonclark.com
Bud Cope does'nt ring a bell but we have several locations in Tx. & NM.
& I don't know all the people at the other locations.


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