Step by step(W/Pics)on how to swap a T5 into a 4 speed car
03-29-2007, 06:38 PM
#161
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Location: Columbia Missouri
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That '85 bell housing was referenced for the Ford T5 swap, but I don't see any reasons why the GM T5 wouldn't fit it too. I like that bell housing because of the hydraulic clutch provision.
03-29-2007, 08:07 PM
#162
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Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma
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t5 tranny install
O.K here we go boys...
I started by removing the Dist. cap and raising the car in the air approx. 18-22".
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I then went under the car to mark the crossmember to prep it so I can convert it into a removable type. As I understand it those of you with a auto trans. had this done by G.M.
If you look at the Pic you will see that I marked a line with a framing square 6" inboard of the hole in the bottom of the frame.
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I then supported the eng. and removed my exhaust pipes. Naturally everyones exhaust will be different.
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Then with a Sawzall, and a Lazer blade installed, I proceeded to separate the crossmember from the frame.
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[IMG]
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Now this , due to the fact that the blade bound at the last bit of the last cut, should be avoided.
[/IMG]
I know that most of us have had a purple fingernail before but I've never had one like this
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Anyway...The next pic is just to illustrate what I feel a solid 38 year old frame will look like if it is blasted and powdercoated. Some that have doubts about their frame may want to have theirs dipped an sealed.
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Next I proceeded to remove the drive shaft
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With that done, next came the trans.
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By the way don't forget to disconnect things like the speedo cable, lock out cable to the column and the reverse light switch connection.
With the trans out of the way, I removed the clutch linkage(should have done this before I raised the car, but it really doesn't make much difference) and the splash shield.
[IMG]
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Out comes the bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch disk.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Lastly is a pic of the parts I removed today. Most of these parts will be for sale!!!
[IMG]
[/IMG]
This work was done in less than 4 Hrs. using hand tools. I will try to use hand tools whenever poss to show that I don't think a compressor will be needed for this job.
Now for you guys that may be a little overwhelmed by such a project, let me assure you I am no Master Mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. But I don't mind getting my hands dirty, I have decent tools and I have a 2 car garage. But I also have something else....The desire to have a 5 Speed trans in my 'Vette, without paying an arm and a leg for it. I Know there are kits out there, and very good ones, that will allow you to make this mod to your car pretty much a drop in deal, but I can't afford that. Plus I like the feeling of accomplishment when all is said and done.
Right now I have...
Used T5 trans. and yolk out of a '93 Ford Mustang....$300.00
Bellhousing and fork out of a '85 Chevy 1 Ton Truck $150.00
(The bell is so I can run a Hyd. clutch)
We will add the rest of the parts as needed, however I hope to do this swap for UNDER $1000.00
I have the trans apart right now(I'm following a book that I borrowed from a friend) so I could hot tank the case, and inspect the internals. Every thing in the trans looks very good. When I get the trans and bell from the dip tank I will be sandblasting them with my $20.00 sand blasting gun(and respirator)'cause I just love the look of fresh Aluminum on a trans.
Talk to ya soon...
I started by removing the Dist. cap and raising the car in the air approx. 18-22".
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]I then went under the car to mark the crossmember to prep it so I can convert it into a removable type. As I understand it those of you with a auto trans. had this done by G.M.
If you look at the Pic you will see that I marked a line with a framing square 6" inboard of the hole in the bottom of the frame.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]I then supported the eng. and removed my exhaust pipes. Naturally everyones exhaust will be different.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Then with a Sawzall, and a Lazer blade installed, I proceeded to separate the crossmember from the frame.
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Now this , due to the fact that the blade bound at the last bit of the last cut, should be avoided.
[/IMG]I know that most of us have had a purple fingernail before but I've never had one like this
[IMG]
[/IMG]Anyway...The next pic is just to illustrate what I feel a solid 38 year old frame will look like if it is blasted and powdercoated. Some that have doubts about their frame may want to have theirs dipped an sealed.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Next I proceeded to remove the drive shaft
[IMG]
[/IMG]With that done, next came the trans.
[IMG]
[/IMG]By the way don't forget to disconnect things like the speedo cable, lock out cable to the column and the reverse light switch connection.
With the trans out of the way, I removed the clutch linkage(should have done this before I raised the car, but it really doesn't make much difference) and the splash shield.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Out comes the bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch disk.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Lastly is a pic of the parts I removed today. Most of these parts will be for sale!!!
[IMG]
[/IMG]This work was done in less than 4 Hrs. using hand tools. I will try to use hand tools whenever poss to show that I don't think a compressor will be needed for this job.
Now for you guys that may be a little overwhelmed by such a project, let me assure you I am no Master Mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. But I don't mind getting my hands dirty, I have decent tools and I have a 2 car garage. But I also have something else....The desire to have a 5 Speed trans in my 'Vette, without paying an arm and a leg for it. I Know there are kits out there, and very good ones, that will allow you to make this mod to your car pretty much a drop in deal, but I can't afford that. Plus I like the feeling of accomplishment when all is said and done.
Right now I have...
Used T5 trans. and yolk out of a '93 Ford Mustang....$300.00
Bellhousing and fork out of a '85 Chevy 1 Ton Truck $150.00
(The bell is so I can run a Hyd. clutch)
We will add the rest of the parts as needed, however I hope to do this swap for UNDER $1000.00
I have the trans apart right now(I'm following a book that I borrowed from a friend) so I could hot tank the case, and inspect the internals. Every thing in the trans looks very good. When I get the trans and bell from the dip tank I will be sandblasting them with my $20.00 sand blasting gun(and respirator)'cause I just love the look of fresh Aluminum on a trans.
Talk to ya soon...
03-30-2007, 06:31 PM
#164
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2002
Location: Bonney Lake WA
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You know Scott....I have had this car since Oct. 2005 and in this time I have done all of a body off restoration minus the interior and final paint. And I am starting to run out of steam a little. I am sure there are a lot of guys out there that can do it faster. Just as I could! Its really not fair to judge my timetable with out knowing all the facts!
I doubt there was any maliciousness to your statement, but it did kinda come out of left field.
And I hope you will agree that when it stops being fun, that is the proper time to step back for a while!
I doubt there was any maliciousness to your statement, but it did kinda come out of left field.
And I hope you will agree that when it stops being fun, that is the proper time to step back for a while!
Latter. Scott....
03-30-2007, 07:54 PM
#165
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yeah and I'm the kind of guy that would like to tell you to MIND YOUR OWN DAMN BUSSINESS!!!!
YOU SIR ARE OUT OF LINE!!!
And later is spelled with one T.
YOU SIR ARE OUT OF LINE!!! And later is spelled with one T.
03-30-2007, 08:08 PM
#166
Melting Slicks
And by the way everyone here is behind you and will help if they can.
03-30-2007, 08:43 PM
#167
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2002
Location: Bonney Lake WA
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Simmer down Francis, there is no need to yell. I also didn't realize you are an educated man. I bet you spent the last 20 minutes looking for a smillie that sticks it's tongue out and goes neener, neener. I'll use spell check for in the future for you. I'm sure it's the little things in life that gets on your nerves.
And like SRR said it's all in fun. Besides you get to serious here and I am going to start thinking that you are a Mustang driver or something.
Oh yea, my grammar needs some work to, so may be you could give me some pointers in that department next. TIA.
Later Scott.
And like SRR said it's all in fun. Besides you get to serious here and I am going to start thinking that you are a Mustang driver or something.
Oh yea, my grammar needs some work to, so may be you could give me some pointers in that department next. TIA.
Later Scott.
03-30-2007, 08:56 PM
#168
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Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma
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Sly i kcnt seem to open up your pics of your conversion ,could you let me know if its my problem or its on your end, I just got myself another vett after 2 years without one had my last one for 10 years
Big M from tulsa ok
Big M from tulsa ok
03-31-2007, 12:28 PM
#169
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Sorry about the pics but I have been led to understand that after a certain amount of time the pics are deleated. And I have also dumped them from my photo bucket album.
Again sorry!
Again sorry!
04-13-2007, 11:13 AM
#170
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Well I got everything ready to go...Bell and plate mounted, studs in plate, I adjusted the pivot ball to where I have about 1/4" space between the TO brng and the clutch fingers so that there is no contact between the TO brng and the clutch when the clutch is released. My problem is that when I depress the clutch it will not release the disk. So at this time I can't use the alignment tool to center the disk.
Should I make an adjustment to the clutch rod or do I make the pivot stud longer? I think that both will cause the Throw out brng to come in constant contact with the clutch fingers. Which is not good...correct?
Something else to consider is that when I measured from the clutch fingers to the back side of the adapter plate, My measurement tells me that I need to remove 3 inches from the front bearing retainer, and that seems excessive, but I have measured it time and time again.
I have a ford high performance disk a TRW throwout bearing and the pressure plate that worked fine with my M20
As you may remember I am using a hyd. clutch at this time.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Should I make an adjustment to the clutch rod or do I make the pivot stud longer? I think that both will cause the Throw out brng to come in constant contact with the clutch fingers. Which is not good...correct?
Something else to consider is that when I measured from the clutch fingers to the back side of the adapter plate, My measurement tells me that I need to remove 3 inches from the front bearing retainer, and that seems excessive, but I have measured it time and time again.
I have a ford high performance disk a TRW throwout bearing and the pressure plate that worked fine with my M20
As you may remember I am using a hyd. clutch at this time.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance
