Master Cylinder Rebuild
01-26-2007, 08:55 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Master Cylinder Rebuild
Has anyone seen a paper on rebuilding a brake master cylinder?
01-26-2007, 09:08 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I know they're cheap ( I work part time for Advance Auto) but I had my original stainless steel sleeved years ago and I don't want to toss it. Thanks for the input.
01-26-2007, 10:42 AM
#5
Team Owner
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You don't really need a paper, and the instructions that come with the rebuild kit show you everything you need. They are generic, but you just replace what you can with what the kit gives you.
Remove the clip with some snap ring pliers, pull the plunger, both of them, and make sure you get all the springs.
You'll see a few rubber seals and washers to replace, and I think a spring or two. It's really very easy, and only took me about fifteen minutes.
01-26-2007, 10:49 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
01-26-2007, 10:55 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I personally wouldn't rebuild one unless it was SS sleeved since they are so cheap. I just like to keep my Vette as original as possible and that is why I went the SS way. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for all the input!
01-26-2007, 10:57 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
You have to take it on a case-by-case basis.
Most of the time, the kit costs more than the replacement.
Sometimes it's the same.
Sometimes it's less.
Sometimes originality is important.
Sometimes the sheer joy of doing something that actually requires some skill over-weighs the cost factor.
Depends on the situation.
01-26-2007, 11:00 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Very true.
You have to take it on a case-by-case basis.
Most of the time, the kit costs more than the replacement.
Sometimes it's the same.
Sometimes it's less.
Sometimes originality is important.
Sometimes the sheer joy of doing something that actually requires some skill over-weighs the cost factor.
Depends on the situation.
You have to take it on a case-by-case basis.
Most of the time, the kit costs more than the replacement.
Sometimes it's the same.
Sometimes it's less.
Sometimes originality is important.
Sometimes the sheer joy of doing something that actually requires some skill over-weighs the cost factor.
Depends on the situation.
Couldn't agree more, Tom.
01-26-2007, 11:02 AM
#12
Race Director
01-26-2007, 11:10 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
01-26-2007, 11:42 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
Hey Jud...
How about getting them to correct their web site?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...chfor=Radiator
That radiator is only for a SB.
Won't fit a BB.
BB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=275
SB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=277
Also tell them that TriPower was only available 1967 - 1969.
Many of their parts listing have TriPower as a selection for 1970.
How about getting them to correct their web site?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...chfor=Radiator
That radiator is only for a SB.
Won't fit a BB.
BB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=275
SB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=277
Also tell them that TriPower was only available 1967 - 1969.
Many of their parts listing have TriPower as a selection for 1970.
01-26-2007, 11:58 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Hey Jud...
How about getting them to correct their web site?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...chfor=Radiator
That radiator is only for a SB.
Won't fit a BB.
BB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=275
SB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=277
Also tell them that TriPower was only available 1967 - 1969.
Many of their parts listing have TriPower as a selection for 1970.
How about getting them to correct their web site?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...chfor=Radiator
That radiator is only for a SB.
Won't fit a BB.
BB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=275
SB:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=277
Also tell them that TriPower was only available 1967 - 1969.
Many of their parts listing have TriPower as a selection for 1970.
Actually, in looking at the link provided in your post, the application indicates small block.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; 01-26-2007 at 12:15 PM.
01-26-2007, 01:16 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
01-26-2007, 02:01 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
What I getting from that link is a 350 Chevy. Since I'm a registered user of that site, it may revert to my listed car, '76 Vette. Anyway, thanks for the input, Tom.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; 01-26-2007 at 02:22 PM.
01-26-2007, 02:42 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
It's not that complicated...
You just pop the clip, remove the guts, clean it/hone it, install new guts.
If the bore is pitted, use a fine grit hone if it needs honing- the hone can't have a "stop" on it as those used for calipers.... the stones need to go all the way to the inside... set the tension just enough so that they stay against the wall by themselves... centrifugal force will give them enough cutting power.
There may be un-machined casting inside the end of the cylinder... avoid hitting it with the stones or they shatter.
Don't mistake built-up sludge for rust or pits.
Hone on a slow speed.... don't use the drill on high... need a variable speed drill.
Stainless sleeved bores usually only require a clean-up... I never use stones on them, I use a stone set wrapped in fine steel whool, which is the finish step on a cast iron bore.
If the pits don't clean up after about 20 or 30 slow passes, then you should have the unit sleeved or just replace it. (One pass = in & out)
Only hone until the bore cleans up, then stop. The number of passes is a "guesstimate" because this depends on how much tension your stone holder has, and what grit the stones are.
If you over-hone, the new seals will fail because of too much clearance.
I use WD40 while honing, and then clean up with Brakleen.
Use a lot of Brakleen.... the WD40 gets into the pores of the metal.
Finish up by wrapping some fine steel whool around a stone set, tight enough that you can force it into the bore. Give it several passes and then just clean it all up & lube it with your favorite brake fluid & install the new guts & clip.
If there are no pits, rust, or gouges, I just do them with the steel whool.
I do these quite regularly for local friends who want to retain their original M/C for NCRS reasons. I also media blast them & refinish them per the owners request/instructions.
You just pop the clip, remove the guts, clean it/hone it, install new guts.
If the bore is pitted, use a fine grit hone if it needs honing- the hone can't have a "stop" on it as those used for calipers.... the stones need to go all the way to the inside... set the tension just enough so that they stay against the wall by themselves... centrifugal force will give them enough cutting power.
There may be un-machined casting inside the end of the cylinder... avoid hitting it with the stones or they shatter.
Don't mistake built-up sludge for rust or pits.
Hone on a slow speed.... don't use the drill on high... need a variable speed drill.
Stainless sleeved bores usually only require a clean-up... I never use stones on them, I use a stone set wrapped in fine steel whool, which is the finish step on a cast iron bore.
If the pits don't clean up after about 20 or 30 slow passes, then you should have the unit sleeved or just replace it. (One pass = in & out)
Only hone until the bore cleans up, then stop. The number of passes is a "guesstimate" because this depends on how much tension your stone holder has, and what grit the stones are.
If you over-hone, the new seals will fail because of too much clearance.
I use WD40 while honing, and then clean up with Brakleen.
Use a lot of Brakleen.... the WD40 gets into the pores of the metal.
Finish up by wrapping some fine steel whool around a stone set, tight enough that you can force it into the bore. Give it several passes and then just clean it all up & lube it with your favorite brake fluid & install the new guts & clip.
If there are no pits, rust, or gouges, I just do them with the steel whool.
I do these quite regularly for local friends who want to retain their original M/C for NCRS reasons. I also media blast them & refinish them per the owners request/instructions.
01-26-2007, 02:51 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Wellington, FL
Posts: 9,962
Received 417 Likes
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288 Posts
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
It's not that complicated...
You just pop the clip, remove the guts, clean it/hone it, install new guts.
If the bore is pitted, use a fine grit hone if it needs honing- the hone can't have a "stop" on it as those used for calipers.... the stones need to go all the way to the inside... set the tension just enough so that they stay against the wall by themselves... centrifugal force will give them enough cutting power.
There may be un-machined casting inside the end of the cylinder... avoid hitting it with the stones or they shatter.
Don't mistake built-up sludge for rust or pits.
Hone on a slow speed.... don't use the drill on high... need a variable speed drill.
Stainless sleeved bores usually only require a clean-up... I never use stones on them, I use a stone set wrapped in fine steel whool, which is the finish step on a cast iron bore.
If the pits don't clean up after about 20 or 30 slow passes, then you should have the unit sleeved or just replace it. (One pass = in & out)
Only hone until the bore cleans up, then stop. The number of passes is a "guesstimate" because this depends on how much tension your stone holder has, and what grit the stones are.
If you over-hone, the new seals will fail because of too much clearance.
I use WD40 while honing, and then clean up with Brakleen.
Use a lot of Brakleen.... the WD40 gets into the pores of the metal.
Finish up by wrapping some fine steel whool around a stone set, tight enough that you can force it into the bore. Give it several passes and then just clean it all up & lube it with your favorite brake fluid & install the new guts & clip.
If there are no pits, rust, or gouges, I just do them with the steel whool.
I do these quite regularly for local friends who want to retain their original M/C for NCRS reasons. I also media blast them & refinish them per the owners request/instructions.
You just pop the clip, remove the guts, clean it/hone it, install new guts.
If the bore is pitted, use a fine grit hone if it needs honing- the hone can't have a "stop" on it as those used for calipers.... the stones need to go all the way to the inside... set the tension just enough so that they stay against the wall by themselves... centrifugal force will give them enough cutting power.
There may be un-machined casting inside the end of the cylinder... avoid hitting it with the stones or they shatter.
Don't mistake built-up sludge for rust or pits.
Hone on a slow speed.... don't use the drill on high... need a variable speed drill.
Stainless sleeved bores usually only require a clean-up... I never use stones on them, I use a stone set wrapped in fine steel whool, which is the finish step on a cast iron bore.
If the pits don't clean up after about 20 or 30 slow passes, then you should have the unit sleeved or just replace it. (One pass = in & out)
Only hone until the bore cleans up, then stop. The number of passes is a "guesstimate" because this depends on how much tension your stone holder has, and what grit the stones are.
If you over-hone, the new seals will fail because of too much clearance.
I use WD40 while honing, and then clean up with Brakleen.
Use a lot of Brakleen.... the WD40 gets into the pores of the metal.
Finish up by wrapping some fine steel whool around a stone set, tight enough that you can force it into the bore. Give it several passes and then just clean it all up & lube it with your favorite brake fluid & install the new guts & clip.
If there are no pits, rust, or gouges, I just do them with the steel whool.
I do these quite regularly for local friends who want to retain their original M/C for NCRS reasons. I also media blast them & refinish them per the owners request/instructions.
