Tim81

Ok here is one for all of the engineers in the group. I'm thinking about attempting my own front-end alignment using a simple level attacked to the front wheel for adjustimg Camber. My question is how do I convert my measurements into degrees? I have 15 inch wheels. I 've read that this can be done but not sure about the conversion. Can anybody help me out here? Thanks and I hope everyone has a Happy New Year.
Tim

birdsmith

I'm not an engineer, I don't play one on the radio, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, BUT I do know that if you get a big piece of paper and a protractor you can lay out on paper just how many inches or fractions of inches a degree is over, say, a fifteen-inch span, or whatever your wheel diameter happens to be. Understand also that it really helps a lot to have an absolutely FLAT garage floor when attempting this at home and also that changes in camber settings affect toe (more negative=toe-in, more positive=toe-out).

jnb5101

i'm not completely sure if i understand your question, but if you have 15" wheels you can calculate the circumference(pi * c). then divide that by 360(number of degrees in a circle). that will give you the number of inches per degree. or you can divide 360 by the circumference to get degrees per inch.

kb2fzq

Ummmmm....you do know that you should have a 4 wheel alignment on the vette....right?

Big2Bird

The front won't do you justice without the back being correct.

Fevre

Get yourself one of these, after installing my Steeriods and doing a full front suspension rebuild I just set the caster using an angle finder and toe by measuring from treads each side of the wheel (fore and aft), I then adj the camber as needed after test drives to get it to track straight, still would like a real alignment but it tracks straight and shows no signs of tire wear as of yet.



http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...22-1099-AF006M

Tim81

Hey thanks, Those are some great ideas, I'm going to give this try sometime in the near future. I'll probably take it to a good front end shop just to see how close I get. Yes I know that all 4 wheels must be align. Thanks for the help. Tim

BLACK SHARK

I have to ask WHY. Where I live, the alignment shop only charges about$50-$60. I just dont think this is the type of thing you do at home. OK, yeah, you can get it close, and then take it to the shop, but it will still cost the same. I think you should leave it to the experts.

Fevre

That was my intention but since it tracks true I put it on the back burner for 2 years so far.


BTW I used 4 of of those peel and stick floor tiles stacking 2 on top of each other with some lube between them and put them under the wheels to allow them to rotate with no friction.

Total cost was $0.00 since I had all the stuff.

Jud Chapin

Does this method of the tiles allow for full and easy movement of the tires when adjustments are made?

Tim81

I know what you're saying. I'm rebuilting the front end my self and I want to get the alignment close, then have it dialed in by the shop. I just think it will be nice to see just how close I can get it myself. I'll post the results of both when its finished. Thanks for the input. Tim

Glassbowtie77

After I rebuilt my frontend I aligned mine the best I could with a level for the camber adjustment and a tape measure for the toe adjustment. It's not exact but it's in the ballpark until I can get it to a good alignment shop that knows Vettes. What I would really like to find is a good easy method to get the rear end aligned closely at home, as this is my next project I am going to tackle in the coming month. Id like to read up on it ahead of time so that I have a basic understanding of it when I actually do it. I liked to find one that explains it in laymen's terms, not in technical mumbo jumbo that baffles you with bull$hit. I'm not good with all that technical stuff, I like nice and easy and straight forward and then I'm okay.

lars

I have a complete tech paper on how to do this - it has all the tables, numbers, measurements and step-by-step how-to. Drop me en e-mail request and I'll send you the paper:
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars

BLACK SHARK

Ok, That clears it up for me,,,,

chevymans 77

Drop Lars an email and follow his instructions. A shop will go by the numbers posted in there book and not spend the time to get it exact, they have a range and as long as its within the range that will be good enough for them. You can take the time to get it exact and have the piece of mind that it is exact. A good place to get the alignment specs is VbandP web site. Two parallel strings one down each side of the car will allow you to set toe front and back, you can also get a camber and caster gauge from Quantum for around $35, it works great. The car has to be level this is critical, two thin pieces of metal with a dab of grease between them will allow the suspension to be loaded correctly and allow you to make your adjustments while the tires will move around easily. Floor tile are cheap and make a good shim to level the area were you will do your alignment (under each tire).

Neal

Jud Chapin

Can you describe the thin metal pieces to go under the tires a little more and perhaps where to purchase them?

Fevre

sheet metal will do, just put some grease between them and it will allow them to slide, I had left over vinyl tile so I put them face to face with a light spray of lithium grease, worked fine

chevymans 77

Sure I went to the local hardware store and purchased some thin roof flashing. cut 8 squares 1 foot by 1 foot than I put a dab of grease between them and set them under each tire, this allows the tire to move when you make your adjustments.

Neal

norvalwilhelm

I disagree with you. I feel my home alignment jobs are better then the shop. The shop has a small alotted time to do the alignment. They also have a spec printout. As long as your specs fall within this allotment you are within spec. The drivers side could be on the low side and the passengers on the high side, both within specs but both very different.
It is important to be the same side to side.
I spent the money on a caster camber gage, a toe gage and a laser level.
To me it is a labor of love and I spend the time getting it right side to side.
Forgot I also made a set of floor plates so the wheels turn or move in and out for camber settings readily.
Also alot of guys on the rack really don't know much about alignment or why. Usually the apprentice mechanic. Ask him about bump steer and you get this blank look.
I can do better then any shop

Jud Chapin

Thanks!