MELVIN

Please limit responses to those who have actually done thier own work by putting either a 5 or 6 speed in thier car, and switched from thier original 4 speed:

Im considering either a 5, or 6 speed, if my M-22 comes up needing a rebuild. If I have to take it take it out anyway, Im willing to spend the bucks for maybe a richmond or tremec:

1. What mods did you have to do (console, drive shaft, mounts, shifter, etc)

2. State what brand you went with

fauxrs2

Purchased a Tremec TKO (5 speed) from Eric Swarr (swarr automotive) - not a kit ((~$1650.00))

• Crossmember was cut out and modified so that it could be bolted in ((~$55))
• Driveshaft was shortened by local driveline shop ((~$90))
• 90 degree speedo cable adapter to make speedo cable install easier ($39.99)
• Lincoln CV joint yoke modified and installed as slip yoke in lieu of monster expensive yoke ((~$35.00))
• used a 700 r4 bracket from bow tie overdrives on existing crossmember ((~$95))
• purchased pro 50 shorth throw shifter ((~$120.00))
• modifications required to center console since shifter comes out of center instead of side ((my time only))
• no changes to clutch or bellhousing

Entire project was done myself for a cost of just over $2000

see this link

MELVIN

That isnt bad at all. Keisler has supposedly a direct bolt on, no mods, comes with drive shaft, u joints, shifter, everything. Goes for about $3200 though

GrandSportC3

Used to have a TKO 5-speed in my blue/white '68

Total cost for parts:

$1795 for GM TKO tranny
$80 for tranny mount bracket
$25 for shifter ****
$90 for driveshaft shortening
$150 tranny yoke (take apart yoke)
$50 special conversion u-joint which ia 1350 series at the tranny and 1310 or 1330 series for the driveshaft. Different years Vettes had different size u-joints on the driveshaft. I believe that early 4-speed cars had 1310 series u-joints at the driveshaft and automatic cars had 1330 series. Later Vettes had mostly 1330 series.. However, the take apart yoke available is only available in 1350 series so you need a conversion u-joing

for earlier C3's, a bracket needs to be welded on the shifter to space the shifter to come up at the right position or you can also use a modified or new console plate.

I'd also recommend to go with a better clutch than stock.. I used a Hays Borg&Beck pressure plate and a Hays competition clutch. Worked very good and even got a 1.50's 60' time at the track with only 465 HP and Drag Radials.

fauxrs2

Price is almost 4 years old...YMMV

zwede

Tremec TKO from the Swarr group purchase.

Mark Williams yoke ($$$ but very nice)
90 dgr speedo adapter
Driveshaft shortened by local shop
Cut & welded the tremec shifter to work with stock console (moved handle to the rear & left)
Made crossmember removable.
Hurst 5-speed shifter ****.

The whole thing came in right at $2K.

Love the tranny, would never go back to a muncie. The tremec shifts much easier and has a better 1 st. Plus 5th makes highway driving a pleasure.

69vettester

I swapped The M21 out for a ROD 3years ago, It was alot of fun and the results were awsome..Heres the details.
http://weavermill.com/trans/richmond.htm

Barry's70LT1

I installed a TK0600 kit from Keisler this Summer.
NO modifications required, everything fits perfect.

I know the kit costs more than piecing it together yourself. I debated going that route, however, I was willing to pay the extra to get all the pieces that fit up front.

Keisler's support is excellent. It only took a few days to install.

It's a tight fit without removing the cross member, or engine, however it
can be done as per Keisler's instructions.

I'm very satisfied.

Barry

MELVIN

Id have to agree on the Keisler. I dont want to have to do mod the cross member

If I do get one, I want it to go right in

Gordonm

I purchased a Keisler kit from a forum member a few years ago for around 2300 dollars. It had never been out of the box and they decided to go another route. I installed the kit myself. I did cut the crossmember and would advise on doing this. I have had the trans out a few times since and it makes the removal/install a breeze. No console mods where needed and everything came in the kit. Best mod I have done to the car. I am ruuning a blowsheild on mine and the thought of holding the heavy sheild up while installing the clutch would be a night mare. I don't care about value of the car as I have way more into it than it will ever be worth. I like it like it is and don't care what it is worth. I did not buy it as an investment.

Just reread your response. If you feel you are going to install it once and not do any work then cutting the cross member may not be for you. I know mine cames apart almost every winter, it will be apart again this winter also so the ease of trans removal was important to me.

1971corvette

I put Doug Nash ( now Richmond ) in my old 1965 ,way back in 3/13/1982,I now have it installed in my 1971 with only 1 small modification to the trans mounting bracket.After many years of abuse the trans has never been apart,it is now time to pull it to split the case and have a look see,and reseal the mating surface.Cost was let me go look at the paper.

1) doug nash = 1,200.00
2) Hurst shifter = 165.00
3) bell housing = 178.95
4) 2 quarts amsoil = 10.00
tax = 77.69
freight = 39.33
phone call = 2.97

Total 1,673.94

68427

I put a Richmond 5-spd in my '68. Original drive shaft w/ T-400 yolk was reused and I put a small tab for trans mount on crossmember. I trimed the console plate underside slightly and used an aftermarked boot.

I also put a Richmond 6-sd in my '64 (sold to a buddy who still has it). Changed the trans yolk, trimmed the plate, cut an access hole in the tunnel for shift rod adjustment and covered it with an access panel under the carpet.

Both easy installs. I understand some of the other trans may shift smoother than the Richmonds, though.

69427

I put a Doug Nash 5 speed in my '69 back in '82. I've enjoyed the gearing advantage over the previous M21, but the Nash has been a TOTAL NIGHTMARE to install or remove each time (I can't talk myself into cutting up my original frame crossmember) due to the case dimensions, and probably the tolerance difference in the height between the crossmember and the tunnel. I'm currently building a C3 auto frame (why couldn't the factory put removable crossmembers on every Corvette?) with C4 suspension, and am planning to swap the body onto this frame next spring.

big_G

Also a Richmond 5-speed here. Keep in mind that even the factory 4-speed units can sometimes be a bear to remove, due to production tolerances, etc. That given, a removable center piece is recommended for either a TKO or Richmond, IMHO.

icanfixitforyou

I have a Richmond 5 speed with a removable transmission crossmember. It is not overly difficult to work with.

Twin_Turbo

zf6 speed here... major pita

Duke94

Went with the Keisler TKO-500. No mods took a long weekend to install. Works great!!

71VETTEWI

Major Mods and very big Trans, Modifications of bolt in crossmember and decided to use F-Body bellhousing and clutch. I would use the newer set-ups where they have a replacement bellhousing to retain your factory clutch arm. I have the hydraulic system and it is nice but it was a PITA to put in. I also got this thing from a liar who didn't tell me that the trans was half wore out and it pops out of 3rd gear coming to a corner.
I am redesigning the whole set-up and may sell it and use one of the TKO set-ups?
Lesson learned, Buy a fresh tranny and be careful of good deals on a used one!!!
-Good Luck
-Charlie