Considering wheels that require adapters...problems drag racing?
#1
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Considering wheels that require adapters...problems drag racing?
I'm considering a 17" rim/tire that will require adapters (bolt to the rotor then wheel bolts to adapter). Assuming I will have over 500 hp (new engine/trans in the works) can they be used in constant track drag racing and what's the max spacing I can get away with? Thanks!
#2
Team Owner
I tore up alot of rear end stuff over the years. I was very lucky to always be able to shut things down fast enough to avoid body or structural damage
I used to run 3500 stall and 10X28 goodyear slicks with a line lock. I also use 2 inch adapters with my 17X11 wheels with 6.5 BS for street driving. I never remove my adapters for my 15X10 drag slick mounted wheels.
Many years ago I purchased the 1/2 inch stud 1350 axles from Tom's. I also kind of pieced it all together over time. I have the toms #6 posi unit, custom hardened yokes, HD half shafts, 4.11 richmond gears inside of an improved case with better main caps, and HD posi cover.
I had to buy all these parts because the originals broke.
I have great faith in my 2 inch adapters with the 1/2 inch studs. I've had 6-7 years and many sets of 315 rear tires
I used to run 3500 stall and 10X28 goodyear slicks with a line lock. I also use 2 inch adapters with my 17X11 wheels with 6.5 BS for street driving. I never remove my adapters for my 15X10 drag slick mounted wheels.
Many years ago I purchased the 1/2 inch stud 1350 axles from Tom's. I also kind of pieced it all together over time. I have the toms #6 posi unit, custom hardened yokes, HD half shafts, 4.11 richmond gears inside of an improved case with better main caps, and HD posi cover.
I had to buy all these parts because the originals broke.
I have great faith in my 2 inch adapters with the 1/2 inch studs. I've had 6-7 years and many sets of 315 rear tires
Last edited by gkull; 09-20-2006 at 03:26 PM.
#3
Team Owner
I forgot to put Tom's address. Your probably smarter to just bite the bullet and get the whole $2150 kit
http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/catalog.asp?pg=23
http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/catalog.asp?pg=24
http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/catalog.asp?pg=23
http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/catalog.asp?pg=24
Last edited by gkull; 09-20-2006 at 01:49 PM.
#4
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Originally Posted by gkull
I tore up alot of rear end stuff over the years. I was very lucky to always be able to shut things down fast enough to avoid body or structural damage
I used to run 3500 stall and 10X28 goodyear slicks with a line lock. I also use 2 inch adapters with my 17X11 wheels with 6.5 BS for street driving. I never remove my adapters for my 15X10 drag slick mounted wheels.
Many years ago I purchased the 1/2 inch stud 1350 axles from Tom's. I also kind of pieced it all together over time. I have the toms #6 posi unit, custom hardened yokes, HD half shafts, 4.11 richmond gears inside of an inproved case with better main caps, and HD posi cover.
I had to buy all these parts because the originals broke.
I have great faith in my 2 inch adapters with the 1/2 inch studs. I've had 6-7 years and many sets of 315 rear tires
I used to run 3500 stall and 10X28 goodyear slicks with a line lock. I also use 2 inch adapters with my 17X11 wheels with 6.5 BS for street driving. I never remove my adapters for my 15X10 drag slick mounted wheels.
Many years ago I purchased the 1/2 inch stud 1350 axles from Tom's. I also kind of pieced it all together over time. I have the toms #6 posi unit, custom hardened yokes, HD half shafts, 4.11 richmond gears inside of an inproved case with better main caps, and HD posi cover.
I had to buy all these parts because the originals broke.
I have great faith in my 2 inch adapters with the 1/2 inch studs. I've had 6-7 years and many sets of 315 rear tires
I already have heavy duty half shafts and a rebuilt posi unit (3.90 gears I believe) with 2.5" long studs (I believe 7/16") on the rear. Not to mention offset arms and other VBP items installed. The way I read though, those long studs would have to go so I can bolt the adapter to the hub and wheels to adapter. If that's the case, I would say 1/2" would be the way to go for sure all the way around.
#5
Team Owner
My 2 inch adapters (I think) were from VB&P. Your existing wheel studs hold the adapter and the adapter has 1/2 studs holding the wheel.
to the observant eye - you see what's missing? I had completely hosed up a half shaft and had to order a new one from tom's
to the observant eye - you see what's missing? I had completely hosed up a half shaft and had to order a new one from tom's
#6
Melting Slicks
I have long studs and use 2.25 and 2.5" adapters to mount my C4 wheels for rain tires. I don't think I have a problem with the long studs extending beyond the adapters, but the C4 wheels have reliefs betweent the lug holes so it doesn't matter anyway. I'll have to check next time I have the front tires off to see if the studs extend beyond the adapters. I'm pretty sure they don't though.
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I know the hub centric and wheel centric are better and probably what you want for autocross but are the non centric ok for drag or should I not consider those at all? Thanks for all the advice so far!
#8
Melting Slicks
If they're Corvette wheels and you get VBP adapters, they'll be hub centric. I would recommend VBP first based on experience with their products. If they're not Corvette (or GM at least) wheels, I can't say that they'd have the correct bore to pilot on the adapters.
You may be getting into a cost range where you might consider some custom 17" wheels that don't require adapters. CCW, Kodiak, or similar come to mind immediately, even American Racing makes a 17" wheel that you can get custom built to fit without adapters.
You may be getting into a cost range where you might consider some custom 17" wheels that don't require adapters. CCW, Kodiak, or similar come to mind immediately, even American Racing makes a 17" wheel that you can get custom built to fit without adapters.