POLL: new or old block?
#1
CFOT Attention Whore
Thread Starter
POLL: new or old block?
after recently finding out the old style 4 bolt block i've been saving for my killer street motor is cracked, i'm confronted with a dilema.
do i fix the old block or buy a new block? by new block, i'm talking about a late model roller cam/one piece rear main block.
as i see it the pros to fixing the old block are:
1) it's not really expensive, about $100
2) i have a bunch of stuff for the build already, including fully built Z-28 heads, balanced rotating assembly with forged pistons and a 7 quart pan with kick outs.
the cons are:
1) will i ever trust it?
2) the prefered use of roller cam will require more expense to modify the block or buy retro lifters
3) one piece rear main
now, i've already found a complete late model vortec motor that just needs to be bored out and have the crank turned but there's pros and cons to that as well
pros:
1) one piece rear main and already set up for factory roller lifters. the one i foudn already has the entire assembly.
2) vortec heads are still better than the assembled 2.02 early heads i have
cons:
1) my existing oil pan, bowtie intake and balanced crank won't work
2) i'd have to convert to electric fuel pump.
i'm sure there's other concerns but these are the ones big enough for me to remember.
i could always use my original block but there are still issues there, not to mention i don't want to run it any longer if i'm going to build any power.
so WWCF do?
do i fix the old block or buy a new block? by new block, i'm talking about a late model roller cam/one piece rear main block.
as i see it the pros to fixing the old block are:
1) it's not really expensive, about $100
2) i have a bunch of stuff for the build already, including fully built Z-28 heads, balanced rotating assembly with forged pistons and a 7 quart pan with kick outs.
the cons are:
1) will i ever trust it?
2) the prefered use of roller cam will require more expense to modify the block or buy retro lifters
3) one piece rear main
now, i've already found a complete late model vortec motor that just needs to be bored out and have the crank turned but there's pros and cons to that as well
pros:
1) one piece rear main and already set up for factory roller lifters. the one i foudn already has the entire assembly.
2) vortec heads are still better than the assembled 2.02 early heads i have
cons:
1) my existing oil pan, bowtie intake and balanced crank won't work
2) i'd have to convert to electric fuel pump.
i'm sure there's other concerns but these are the ones big enough for me to remember.
i could always use my original block but there are still issues there, not to mention i don't want to run it any longer if i'm going to build any power.
so WWCF do?
#2
Le Mans Master
Just buy a brand new block (Summit/Jegs).... $750 shipped, that's a 4 bolt main, 1piece rms block, already honed 4.000", cleaned, cam bearings installed ... it's a hydr. roller block AND it's setup for a mech. fuel pump
Bore+hone and clean your old or the other used block is probably abround $400-$600 (local shops here quoted me $700)
You can use a 2 piece rms crank in a newer block with an adapter.
Bore+hone and clean your old or the other used block is probably abround $400-$600 (local shops here quoted me $700)
You can use a 2 piece rms crank in a newer block with an adapter.
#3
You already have money in your Z/28 heads and money in rotating
parts. If you can sell these parts an get some or most of the money
back then I would go fo the newer one piece rear seal block if not
think I would just buy a new 4 bolt chevy two piece seal block and pay
a little extra cost fo the retro roller. Guess it comes down to how much
money you have already sunk into your rotating parts and heads.
Buy the time you find a used 4 bolt block and mess with machinests
a new $600.00 old style block would look good to me.
parts. If you can sell these parts an get some or most of the money
back then I would go fo the newer one piece rear seal block if not
think I would just buy a new 4 bolt chevy two piece seal block and pay
a little extra cost fo the retro roller. Guess it comes down to how much
money you have already sunk into your rotating parts and heads.
Buy the time you find a used 4 bolt block and mess with machinests
a new $600.00 old style block would look good to me.
#4
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Just buy a brand new block (Summit/Jegs).... $750 shipped, that's a 4 bolt main, 1piece rms block, already honed 4.000", cleaned, cam bearings installed ... it's a hydr. roller block AND it's setup for a mech. fuel pump
Bore+hone and clean your old or the other used block is probably abround $400-$600 (local shops here quoted me $700)
You can use a 2 piece rms crank in a newer block with an adapter.
Bore+hone and clean your old or the other used block is probably abround $400-$600 (local shops here quoted me $700)
You can use a 2 piece rms crank in a newer block with an adapter.
buy a new block jacking around with machine shops on an old block
when you can buy a new one for $600-$750 I just cant see doing
that.