cherrybombc3

Im looking for opinions on GM crate motors before I purchase one. Has anyone had any problems? I'm looking at the 350 HO. Also how does the HO power a C3?

Vesa

383 is better

fl_rider

Greetings from Burlington, WI

I am running a GMPP 350 / 290 in my 78 and it has been a nice upgrade for the old girl.

I have put close to 13,000 miles on my engine since I installed it and it has worked well.

More is ALWAYS better. It is only limited by the depth of your pockets.

Al77Vette

I been running a 350/330 HO in my 77 from about 6 months (2500miles). No problem real problems. The only suggestion I would make is to upgrade fuel pump and carburetor. I had fuel starvation problems with a rejetted Q-Jet and original fuel pump. Upgraded to 770 Holley and 110-fuel gph pump and problems went away.

ESU

Same motor, edelbrock performer manifold, 2 1/2 inch duals, no cats, rebuilt q-jet, MSD, great price, helluva lot better than stock,
ESU

68 NJConv 454

Purely in my own opinion, if i were to buy a GM small block crate engine I would go with a 383 or 396. Same block size but a whole lot more HP.
I think the 383 is your best bang for your buck. Your cost/hp ratio is much better with the stroker.
Then again, I agree, it all depends on how deep your pockets go.
At my rate, I'll be like Chevy Chase in National Lampoons, if I don't get my year-end bonus I'll be hunting down my boss.

sperkins

Man you've opened up a big can of worms.
How about this one from Year One for $2990?



Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower- 400+
·Torque- 440+ ft/lbs
·Compression ratio- 9.5:1
·Dyno-tested: Yes, includes harmonic balancer and flexplate
·Dyno sheet: Included with engine’s output
·Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
·Recommended fuel- 92 octane
·Max recommended RPM- 6000
·Block- Seasoned 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft- Nodular iron
·Pistons- Hypereutectic
·Connecting rods- Powdered metal
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
·Valve lift:.520"
·Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
·Rocker arms- 1.6:1 ratio
·Cylinder heads- Ported Vortec
·Valves- Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
·Valve springs: Heavy duty
·Bore x Stroke- 4.030" x 3.48"
·Intake manifold- Dual-plane aluminum
·Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
·Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
·Warranty- 12 month/12,000 mi

theandies

ZZ4 - Love it!

red7d7

iNdigo

That actually looks like a nice combo. When I debated the whole crate vs. build topic, I looked long and hard at a GMPP crate ZZ4. Ultimately I decided to do the build myself, and I'm glad I made that decision. If an engine like this had been available, I probably would have gone for it.

But I decided to build my own instead : )

chevygod

Agree on ZZ4. Great bang for the buck.

I have a ZZ3 in a 71 Monte Carlo, moves that barge just fine. ZZ4 is next upgrade from ZZ3, should be nice.

I have also used a 290 hp 350 Goodwrench "Hecho" motor in tha Monte. Ran flawlessly.

Best,
Tom

crazywelder

I have about 3,500 miles on a 350/330 GMPP crate engine with zero problems. I purchased the base version 5 years ago for around $2100. I installed a GMPP "Bow Tie" intake, stock '75 distributor and I alternate between a 750 double pumper and an Edelbrock 650 carbs with the stock air cleaner. I plan to build it according to the Car Craft build up a couple years ago where they got around 430hp.

Bang for the buck, it's a good deal and has a lot of potential.

jdmick

I've been happy with my 350 H.O. Obviously it's not the most powerful GM crate but IMO it's a good value. It all just depends on how much you want to spend. If you're on a really tight budget even the 260 HP crate is a step above stock on a car like my 75.

Wrl111053

I Just Finished Restoring My 73 Vette & For The Money I Put In The ZZ4 Crate Motor.I Odered It Through A Chevy Dealer And Had It Shipped Directly From Gm To My Mechanic.I Couldn't Be Happier With The Hp,torque,and Reliability.I Also Put On Headers Making It Even Nicer,along With An MSD Distributor & 6a Box.Had To Change Only The Water Pump And Fly Wheel For My 4 Spd. If Your Looking For a Nicely priced Simple Strong Motor This Is It.Becareful With Some Of The Higher Performance Crate Motors Which Have A Higher Intake Manifolds, It Might Not Fit With The Original Hood And Your Air Cleaner.Have Fun.Bill

24695bob

I am in my 60's....so I have been around the block more then a few times... Currently have 5 Corvettes in the garage, and just sold my 68 SS Chevelle...

IF...I were looking to buy any Muscle car or Corvette and I hear the Words ZZ be it 3 or 4 I know exactly what I am buying...and go on to asking questions about something else on the car...

Unfortunately my 72 is running a CE block 327 that I
got from some guy who had it in a 67 he purchased
and since it was (in his words) The Correct "wrong" engine he pulled it and went dropped in a 502 ... so he could say he now has the RIGHT..."wrong" engine...

The HO engine is fine...BUT the extra money for the Aluminum heads etc and the REPUTATION of the ZZ motors will in the long term be paid back...

Bob G.
64 72 & 98 Convertibles
76 & 79 Coupes
l

AGVI

Get the 350HO. Great Bang for the Buck!

Roadster71

Just finished my zz4 install in my 71. Runs great.

miechesa

Build your own or have a reliable shop do it.Crate Motor Comparison

Average 355HP ZZ-4 base price from Chevy dealer- $3,695. Add the "Fast Burn Heads" option for $425.00 and the "Hot Cam" kit for $679.00 and you get 385HP for a total of $4,799

Comparing a crate motor to one of our engines is like comparing apples to oranges. Crate motors do have their place, and are fine for "basic" performance use, but you can't expect one of those to hold-up under severe conditions like ours will or make the kind of raw power our engines will make. Here's the simple facts, Engine blocks: We use high quality, "seasoned", American made engine blocks. They use lighter, weaker, "Hecho en Mexico" blocks. Pistons: We use high quality American made hypereutectic or forged pistons. They use Brazilian made cast pistons. Rings: We use high quality, durable moly or iron ductile / plasma moly rings. Who knows what they use. Rods: We use re-sized HD Z/28 rods fitted with super strong ARP bolts OR super light and strong 5140 forged steel rods with ARP "Wave Lock" bolts. They use factory rods WITHOUT ARP bolts. Bolts: The ONLY thing holding your engine together! We use super strong ARP main bolts and ARP or Pioneer HD head bolts. They use plain old stock bolts. Timing assembly: We use super strong, American made double row timing gear sets. They use single gear sets. Push Rods: We use American made, heavy duty steel or bullet proof chrome moly push rods. They use plain old stock push rods. Heads: We use high quality, American made CNC profiled and port matched aluminum heads. They use plain old factory aluminum heads, the same heads that come on trucks. Rocker Arms: We use heavy duty, American made aluminum roller rockers. They use stamped steel non-roller rockers. Bolts: We use nice, new, plated or high quality stainless steel bolts. They use plain old black oxide bolts that rust. Harmonic balancer: We use heavy duty "nodular iron" harmonic balancers. They use plain old stock balancers. Timing cover: We use chrome plated steel timing covers. They use a plastic one that you can only use once. Balancing: On our balanced engines, they are within 1/4 gram. Theirs don't come balanced. Machining and Assembly: Ours is built one at a time by a true professional who cares about his customer's and his "Bad-***" reputation. Theirs are built in Mexico. Ours are built for your specific needs.

rkrattli

350 ram jet!!

Al77Vette

Are you sure about the HP numbers for a ZZ4 with Hot Cam Kit? It was my understanding that combo would make 400+ HP.