soccer794

I've been debating a lot about pulling the engine in the winter and rebuilding it. Its tired, sucking oil and gas like hell and is falling in performance. I've been looking into a lot of inforamation on rebuilding and have gotten a couple books, but I'm still not quite sure if I can handle it. Yeah I can handle a wrench ok but I'm still concerned I'll screw something up. I'm wanting to be around the 500 hp range but still have good street manners as it will be driven a lot. My question is which is the better way for me to go? Can I get a ready to run crate motor for a decent price? I can use the hooker headers that are on the engine now. Budget is definately a concern, but I'm not sure exactly what the budget is right now. Where and for what price can I get a reliable crate motor in this hp range?
Thanks,
Steven

Shoevette

I just went through the same thought process myself. Since I place a significant value on appearing stock, I really had my answer before I asked the question. However, when I starting looking at the crate engines, I found that in order to keep the horsepower in the same range as my 427, I would have to spend more for the motor itself than I would for a removal/quality rebuild/reinstall. While I am at it, I am backing off my compression ratio from 11 to 10 and am increasing horsepower using a different cam, which is not apparent to the naked eye. My 69 will now behave itself on pump gas with no worries.

To me, once you go with a crate motor, you really change what the car is about, so it is all about personal preferences.

My .02

Clink69

You have to be pretty good with engines to build one right. If you have doubt , don't. I know a good deal about engines and do a lot of work on them. I have pieced a few together, but I prefer a good machine shop and engine builder to do it. You can put it in after they build it... Dont cheap out on the parts!...I researched a lot prior to designing the engine in my Sig. It has more power than any stock big block and still gets 21MPG on the hwy/ Probably a well assembled crate would be good. Check out the business history, buy it local in case there is a problem...

C

oregonsharkman

I went the crate motor route a couple of years ago with somehwat bad luck......cracked block in the end..So now I am building my first motor and wish I had done it this way the first time. You will learn SO much by building your own motor. Just get a really good guide book and follow it step by step. Find a good local machine shop to do all the neccessary work and then do assembly yourself. By the time you get done you will be an expert on your own motor.

BTW I am currently building a 500ish hp stroker motor: roller cam/forged bottom/competition ported RPM heads/ 383 ci based on an early 70's hi tin 4-bolt block .030 over

good luck

oregonsharkman

Hey clink 69.your car looks great, but I think all of the aluminum up front has raised your ride height. Your looks about like mine....needs lowering by about 3"

Amazing what aluminum heads/water pump/mini starter/ radiator will do to your suspension

Tonys96

I was in the same situation last fall, decided to have the motor built, very happy with the results, only cost about $500 extra over the cost of getting all the machineing done and buying the parts.

Myself and Vermel used a shop in Ellsworth Wisconsin, ghuy does a great job, offers a two year warranty, mines 481 HP and performs beautifully.

Check out MAS Performance online at

http://www.masperformance.com/

Better yet, give Mike a call and talk to him, he'll build you anything you want.

dgruenke

I have struggled with the same decision. I think I finally came to a logical conclusion. If you are just looking for a base engine, you cannot rebuild your engine for any cheaper than the new GM engine. However, when you get into the higher horsepower ratings, the more money you save by doing it yourself. You can take the extra money that you spend for a manufacturer or an engine builder and spend it on additional horsepower or just keep it in your wallet.