73 Teach's Pet

I have a 73 coupe, which has a sealed back window. At Vettes of Carlisle, I compared an early generation C3 with a sealed back window version. All the holes and indentations are in both body styles. I purchased all the hardware, parts, and items I anticipate will be required to convert my Coupe to a removable back window vehicle.
Is this a common conversion?
Can anyone give me tips, hints, advice, on this conversion, as well as pitfalls to avoid?
Approximately how long may this take?
Is the bottom window interior garnish molding different enough that my 73 sealed back window garnish molding will not work or cannot be converted to work with the conversion, or will it work?
I anticipate that the conversion will take from 2-4 hours to complete and allow me to cruising in a convertible with a roll bar before the evening comes.
Thanks for the help.
Autobody class dismissed!
"Teach"
PS. If interested parties post a response about the installation and conversion process, prior to me doing this procedure. I will try and take the appropriate photo's and write a tech article for all to benefit from.


[Modified by 73 Teach's Pet, 7:19 AM 8/30/2001]

ZD75blue

I know that there is a 75 on hear that has had it done

I'll search the archives because I'm interested too

ZD

ZD75blue

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=129509

found this will post others :yesnod: if there are any more

ZD75blue

evidently thats the only one currently in the archives though I remember participating in others :confused:

ZD

GaryS

I will pipe in here only because more knowledgeable folks haven't. My neighbor and Corvette buddy has a 73 that he converted years ago to a 72 style rear window. In a nutshell, he got a used window from a 7? (I haven't decoded the date code), he got used latches, and the holes that the window aluminum pegs fit into. Then he found a wrecked donor car and bought the upper fiberglass piecse that the latches bolt to. He also bought new rear window weatherstrip.

He removed the t-top vinyl padding and then measured where the "new" fiberglass would have to go to allow the latches to work properly. Once he had measured (about six times ;)) where the new fiberglass pieces had to go, he cut out the area with a disk grinder and then proceeded to fiberglass in the new glass. As soon as that had set up, he popped in the new window and it all fit well. He did some minor cleanup of the area recently, since we had just stripped and primed the car. He was getting ready to paint it and wanted to insure that all of the old fiberglass work was done. It was really quite simple but I am glad he did the cutting and not me.

Gary

RMS73

There have been since threads in the last 6 months on this.
I did the 'conversion' on my first 1973 Vette several years ago. I have all the parts except the overhead trim panels for the conversion on my 'new' 73.
The hardest part was removing the rear window and cleaning the old sealer. You can use a wire to help break the sealant from the window. Just push the wire thriugh the sealant and pull it back and forth, cutting the sealant. Becareful that the wire doesn't slip and stractch the rear deck. To clean the window opening I believe I used laquer thinner after I had scraped the sealant off. The only 'hard' part was getting the two bottom brackets aligned. I didn't have the factory two piece brackets, one piece plastic and the other steel, so I make some from sheet teflon. I'll do this again. Applying the new weatherstripping/seal just takes patience and a good weatherstripping adhesive. Trial fit the weatherstripping/seal before applying the adhesive. The lower trim panel fit just fine with no modifications. Due to the cleaning of the window opening it took me a Saturday morning and half of the afternoon. Adjusting of the top latches was easy, I just set them after the rear window was in place. Make certain your have the nuts for the top latches and the bottom brackets.
Have fun
Roger

spikezz4

We are doing this to my 77 presently in rebuild. We found a complete rear window and frame at the Daytona Beach Turkey Rod Run a couple years ago, along with the storage compartment carrier. All the 73-77 models have the same read window area, and any can be fixed up with a removable rear window. Some consider it better, because the fixed window tends to flex causing leaks in the butal (spelled wrong) rubber sealant. The weather strip tends to absorb the flex while still keeping the moisture out.

Spike

spikezz4

Forgot to add that if you need a rear window defroster, go to NAPA and get a little 12 volt electric heater with fan that can be mounted on one side of the window to blow hot air over the window. It's about 5 or 6 inches square and perhaps an inch and a half thick. Control it with a switch in the cockpit that meets your approval.

Spike

trw

I'm in the earlier thread about doing mine a couple of months ago.

Except to wash the car the rear window has not been back in. Love it.

I drilled 6 screw holes. 2 for each upper latch and 1 on each side for the clips for the window (there were holes on each side of the lower already).

The rest was just bolt in or clean up.

Terry

Jughead

I'm in the process of starting mine too. The upper latches match up to the existing head liner. I think I need the screws and bolts for the latches. The bottom holes are there and the spikes are attached to window I bought on Ebay. I bought a new gasket but haven't cleaned off the glue from Bubba's fixed window treatment.

Anyone know where to get the nuts and bolts for the upper locks?

I expect the window to be sitting in the garage most of the time though.

Len


[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 5:09 AM 8/31/2001]

trw

The upper screws are just 1/4" (guessing) round head phillips screws and they attach with C clip nuts, that slid over the hole.

I don't remember if I got them when I bought my package or just bought them at ACE.

Terry

steelblu75

I'm also ready to put a removeable back window in my 75. The original rear glass was removed when I painted the car this spring. I have the window frame and the latches , but it sounds (from previous posts) that I will also need "clips' for the sides of the frame, and some sort of receptacle for the "spikes" of the window to fit into. Does anyone have any pics of those parts that could be posted? Thanks!

trw

Don't know what "clips" you are talking about. The rear window is held in by the pegs at the bottom of the window and the latches at the top.

Here is a pic of the bottom plate. In the pic it has tape under it, just unwrapped it.



Here are most of the parts needed except the window and frame and use your stock bottom molding.



Sorry the pics are not the best, but it is all I have.

Terry

73Ken73

I might just remove my fixed window. My window is practically falling out anyway, only the inside trim is holding it in. I don't drive my Vette in the rain . I could use pillows to hold the window in when I wash the car.

steelblu75

Thanks for the pictures Terry! They are a big help! I didn't know about the "clips" either...thought I read about them in a previous post. Something else I don't need to aquire before I start this.
Bruce

RMS73

In 70, 71 & 72 the metal bezel that fit around the latch and the cutout in the overhead panel were not used. This area was made into the overhead panels.
For the window bottom pin, I believe the plastic plate when under the metal plate so that the mounting screws would fasten against the metal and not damage the plastic.

Roger

Easy Mike

Purchase a 68-72 Assembly manual. Any year will do. The AIM will show drawings of how the installation was done at the plant, including part numbers, hole sizes, dimensions, etc.

paso

Ken 73 has a point most people I know with the removable back windows have them out all the time. I for one never drive mine in the rain, and since It wasn't a option in my year It would be easier to return to orginal by just putting the glass back in. HMM...

427V8

You know I drive mine in the rain, like when I get caught in it, and usually leave the rear window out ( unless it's REALLY coming down) the water just blows off the back

Also I've discovered that leaving the rear window out but putting the tops on keeps the car really cool, and NOBODY notices that the rear window is missing :D


[Modified by 427V8, 8:25 PM 8/31/2001]

73 Teach's Pet

THANKS ALOT GUYS,
There is a ton of great detailed technical information in here.
I WILL be sure to add to this or write the tech ariticle I mentioned, with detailed photos as pay back for the help.
The suggestion to buy an assembly manuel is a decent suggestion, but I was hoping enough cool people "in the know" would come to my aid and save me the $20. I plan on installing my back window next Saturday. i think it will be a snap since I have a thorough understanding of where I am headed and how to get there from the above posts. I'll update then.

Please add any more knowledge if you have it on this subject. The more detailed and descriptive the better! Great helpful picts Terry Kudos to you

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER...ENPOWER US ALL!


Thanks
"Teach" :seeya