Jim71Vette

I give up! I'm going to cut the TA bolts so I can remove the TAs for rebuilding. I'm going to buy a sawsall that I need to add to my seldom used tool collection. A friend suggested that I buy a "cordless" sawsall, but I wonder if it would be up to the job. Has anyone used a cordless sawsall to cut thier TA bolts?

Thanks

Jim

TonySinclair

I have a nice DeWalt 18v cordless sawzall that I use on the job almost daily (cutting conduit, etc.), but there is no way I would depend on it to cut through something like T/A bolts & shims. You'll be recharging the batteries so often, it will extend the job for hours. Buy or rent a corded sawzall and invest in some good blades (Lennox).

SIXFOOTER

18v Dewalt, good stuff

onaqwst

get a corded sawzall.... the cordless will dye out and bit burn up also.... the t-a bolts are a pita........ and dont cut into the bushing..... if you are doing to scrap your t-arms, just cut them in half and then cut the down the middle of the t-a bolt in the t-arm..... one cut

b

Gordonm

I'm the Lenox saw blade guy. Get yourself a corded one. The cordless are good but you need a high amp motor to do a good job. Get yourself some good (Lenox) bi metal blades with a good saw and you should have them out in no time.
A 6 inch blade seems a little short but a 9 inch is usually to long. I have taken the 9 inch and trimmed off about an inch and it fits pretty good.

SwedeAWACS

I went to rent a nice dewalt sawzall, they wanted 25 dollars a day. I went to harbor freight and bought a cheap (probably crappy one) for $22.00. It worked fine when I cut my trailing arm bolts and now I've got an inexpensive toy for my "seldom used toys box".

I like the fact that now I have one if I ever need it again. cost me $22, Walmart was about $37

Go with GORDONM's recommendations on the blades. Good Luck.

Also...when you go to cut those bolts and shims remember to keep the kids inside...you might end up "talking to Jesus" a bit more than mom would like.

billlambeer

Hahaha, I was talking to jesus for sure!! I couldnt really get my sawzall in there well when I started and I didnt know what to do, so I was standing on top of the frame with a huge mall and a punch on the bolt, taking full swings at the punch, trying to get that thing out, finally I cut the tip like Gordon says to do.

And definitly get a corded sawzall, and if you have any questions of wether you will use it again or not, dont buy it from harbor freight, while some of their stuff is alright, I havent had to much luck with their tools under to much stress.

Gordonm

GaryS

Cordless tools are great for work sites with limited electricity. Since you will be working in your garage and not the south forty acres I would go with corded. Corded have more power and never need recharging (no kidding?) and will do the job just fine. Btw, I just bought the basic DeWalt corded model at Home Depot to cut rusted frame mounts off of my son in laws truck. Worked quite well and quickly.

82X-FireVette

I used a Milwaukee SawZall with the long Lennox blades. It cut through the shims, rubber bushing, and bolt but was still a lot of work and took some time to do. I had Van Steel rebuild my trailing arms and then put anti-seize compound on the new t/a bolts during the install to make sure they didn't rust up again. Good luck and be patient.

LYLE

Pull the shims out with a round end long pry bar. Reach in with cutting torch and cut bolt. Pour coffee can of water on the area. The whole job takes 15 minutes to do both sides after it is jacked up and blocked with rear wheels off. No cost for blades just a little gas.

ruby76

I used my Black and Decker Firestorm cordless sawzall, cut through the bolt fine, made two cuts, 1 on each side of the TA. Still had battery power left. You do need 8" or longer metal cutting blades though.

73C3

I used my trusty hacksaw It took about .5 hour per side to cut the bolt on each side to remove the TA. Once out, I cut the bushing center collar and bollt to remove the bushing, again with my hacksaw and about $3.00 worth of blades per side. Not for the faint of heart.

68 NJConv 454

Gordom knows what he's talking about with blades, do a search.
I went to Lowe's & Home Depot and picked up some blades. One of them said "Fire Rescue" on it. It took a while, I actually had to cut thru the washers and shims to get to the bolt, and I made two cuts on each side of the TA. PIA but it worked. Make sure your supporting the TA under the rotor b/c that thing is heavey and will fall once that final cut is made. I still had my sway bar attached but the TA still swung backwards like a pendulum. Some cutting/penetrating oil might speed the process. Good luck.

ruby76

My buddy was holding the rotor/shield as I cut through the bolt. We didn't realize how close the bolt was to being cut all the way through, nearly cut off his pinkie finger as it fell on with his hand while holding it. Luckily, no stitches etc. He was wearing those latex surgical gloves and the shield did not puncture the glove, so the cut was nice and clean. except for the blood.