turtlevette

why doesn't this block have holes to the water jacket where the water pump bolts on?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMI...46856922QQrdZ1

I'm looking to start collecting some used speed parts.

Gordonm

Maybe an external type water pump? Interesting block.

TJ76

If you look close, they look as though they are covered over with tape. Maybe duct tape?

turtlevette

you might be right. I tried saving the pict and blowing it up. Really hard to tell.

I was just wonderiing if the water entered the side of these blocks. It looks like there is a flange on the sides.

lucky76

I wouldn't be worrying about the plates over the water holes, but I would worry about this quote:
"IT HAS SOME DAMAGE WHEN IT THREW A ROD. THIS CAN EASILY BE FIXED IN A MACHINE SHOP AND WITH A NEW SET OF SLEEVES"
Sounds like another junk sell on Ebay to me.

Deakins

Two things to look for when buying a sprint car block. A the best blocks are set up for dry sump oiling only. Some of them do not have any drain back in the valley over the cam/crank and are wet sumps. This may be an issue depending on your app. B most of them have been wounded. This is not an issue as long as it is a pan/sleeve repair. If it is in the mains or especially the lifter bores it has had it and should not be repaired. The fractured mains are debatable but most racers will not run them if they have been hurt there. Best bet is to find a good Rodeck 350+ that is set up for wet unless you want to run dry sump but you will be locked into that. They are the strongest available by far!

sweethence

Looks like they were intentionally plugged and machined smooth to me, you can sewe the outline of the original openings

MEGALADON

100%

turtlevette

well i bid 500 bucks but was immediately out bid.

let them have the junk.

So much demand for these things people are willing to pay $1000 or more for something with a bunch of damage that might not even be repariable.

Twin_Turbo

* dry sump
* no motor mounts, only for motor plate
* no fuel pump boss (improved #2 cyl. cooling)
* no main caps
* damaged
* set up for remote water pump w/ side hookup instead of front

burners

Did anyone notice the writing on the block in the photo of the damage with the pan stud?


Doesn't that say NOT REPAIRABLE?

turtlevette

i thought it was relatively easy to convert from dry sump to wet? Just a different rear cap?

good catch on the motor mounts. I would not even had bid if i had noticed that.

I was hoping i could drill holes to convert it back to a stock water pump.

a pontiac block is not my first choice. I just thought i could pick it up cheap and play with it.

Fevre

I think it says 'sell on e-bay'

Twin_Turbo

What about the fact that there are no front and rear drainback holes, no filter mount etc etc.

how is 500+ (whatever the reserve is set at) cheap for a block probably only suitable to be sh!tcanned

MotorHead

Here's a nice one

http://www.racingjunk.com/post/61794...lock-Nice.html

turtlevette

this one acutally looked fairly decent. you shoud see some of the other ones that have been listed.

holes the size of a fist in the side, one was missing almost all of the main webbing and some joker bought it for around 600.

remote oil filters can be installed. I know one guy who has a whole beer keg in the back of his car filled with 250 degree oil.

turtlevette

might as well just buy a new one for that price.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=24199

lostpatrolman

If you want an aluminum block, why not just convert over to an ls1? They can be bought for fairly cheap, wont need to be repaired or modified heavily modified like most of these ebay junks. The stock ls1 is very durable. Internals are good to 500rwhp and 6500rpm. You can carb them if you dont want to deal with all the wiring junk.

turtlevette

because it don't look stock.

mrvette

AS if there was much of anything 'stock' on either one of our cars...eh???


GENE