Spal Wiring
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Spal Wiring
My 78 came with two spal fans that were wired by Bubba. Would like to restore their functionality to the most effective use. Should both these fans be wired to a relay and sending unit to come on when a certain water temperature is obtained (like my C5) or should they come on one at a time (see kits for this)?
To me the install would be simpler if I have them BOTH set to come on at 200 degrees. Does it make a difference?
To me the install would be simpler if I have them BOTH set to come on at 200 degrees. Does it make a difference?
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: St. Charles Mo
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 0
Received 104 Likes
on
49 Posts
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
My 78 came with two spal fans that were wired by Bubba. Would like to restore their functionality to the most effective use. Should both these fans be wired to a relay and sending unit to come on when a certain water temperature is obtained (like my C5) or should they come on one at a time (see kits for this)?
To me the install would be simpler if I have them BOTH set to come on at 200 degrees. Does it make a difference?
To me the install would be simpler if I have them BOTH set to come on at 200 degrees. Does it make a difference?
For my application on the 502 RamJet, I kept them independent, one sensed by water temp, and the 2nd tied to A/C (or staged to a higher temp sensor)
Here are a couple of thoughts that may help you decide:
1) There can be a pretty healthy surge on the alt if you dump both start-up fan loads (25amps each) at the same time. Better have an alt and volt regulator that can handle the instantaneous loads of your TOTAL system in addition to the inductive kick that switching on and off both fans at the same time will induce. Very good grounds are very important.
2) With my Be-Cool aluminium radatior, the BB runs cool as a cucumber with just one fan in most hot summer days, w/o A/C
3) Variable fan speed control sounds attractive, but I don't think it is necessary, at least in my application, especially if you stage the two fans at two temps.
Just a couple of $.02 thoughts
Bullshark
Last edited by Bullshark; 12-09-2005 at 11:23 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I don't have A/C and it's not in the picture for a while......so I guess I could build a relay to turn the second fan on maybe 5 seconds after the first so the amp draw isn't so high. Other choice is that since I have a 4 core alum. radiator (never really driven thae car before I took it apart) I may not even need the second fan.....?
#5
Team Owner
I have one set to come on with the ignition key and the other is a manual toggle switch so I can have it run when I'm out of the car or if i see the temp gauge climbing.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Another good idea with a manual switch! I keep thinking all the complicated ways with relays and sensors. Good old toggle switch and good temp guage could keep it simple.......
#7
Team Owner
I bought the lighted toggle that handles 50 amps or something. so I can see that it's on. I also have a manual switch for my OD lockup
#8
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Another good idea with a manual switch! I keep thinking all the complicated ways with relays and sensors. Good old toggle switch and good temp guage could keep it simple.......
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Since I don't have the A/C installed anymore ... instead of installing another toggle switch I think I will wire the fan to the "hot" compressor wire and then I can turn the fan on by using the A/C switch......
#10
Another option that I've had success with is a soft start module from Summit Racing or Jegs. It starts the fans slowly thereby softening the shock to the charging system and varies the fans speed according to engine temp.
Last edited by shafrs3; 12-12-2005 at 01:41 PM.
#11
I would wire them in series for low speed operation and parallel for high speed operation. Use a relay to switch between the two settings. Put your temp sensor monitoring the radiator temp, not the engine temp.
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: 2010 C6 Grand Sport Convertible
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I installed the dual SPAL's in my '78. I used the wiring that came with Dewitt's kit and a 195 deg temp sensor in the intake manifold. It's an easy job if you have the relays, wiring and sensor as a kit. Call Tom Dewitt and save yourself a lot of unnecessary time and headaches.
Mike
Mike
#13
Former Vendor
Originally Posted by 78pacer
I installed the dual SPAL's in my '78. I used the wiring that came with Dewitt's kit and a 195 deg temp sensor in the intake manifold. It's an easy job if you have the relays, wiring and sensor as a kit. Call Tom Dewitt and save yourself a lot of unnecessary time and headaches.
Mike
Mike
We have now changed to standardize on the SPWM (controller) for our fan controls. The older relay package and switch is still available but I think Spal will eventually drop it because the controller does so much more. The SPWM controls one fan by itself and for dual fans you need to buy the extra relay harness (SPFRH). You never want to wire the fans together or in series. Each fan should be individually fused and protected so you loose a fuse, not a fan.
The SPWM will ramp the fan speed as needed instead of running full blast. It is also capable of using the stock temp (gauge) sending units so you do not have to install anything into the engine, simply tap off the gauge sender. The controller has a two-prong plug for the sender and a lot of the older ones are single. This can still work by using the green wire only. But just to make sure that you are not going to have trouble, we now include a two prong switch with each controller. When you run two fans (duals) the controller works in conjunction with a relay harness. You then have a primary and secondary system. The controller ramps up the primary fan and if it gets to full speed, then it kicks on the seconday fan and starts ramping the primary again. It has auto AC accuation if you have that feature. Direct link
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; 12-12-2005 at 08:11 PM.
#14
Mr. Dewitt,
I've looked at the PDF file detailing the specs of the Spal 11" dual fan unit. With respect to the static pressure column that relates to airflow and amperage values, what does this static pressure figure mean? Is it a pressure the fans might encounter behind the blades? If this is true I can’t imagine a situation that would cause this.
I've looked at the PDF file detailing the specs of the Spal 11" dual fan unit. With respect to the static pressure column that relates to airflow and amperage values, what does this static pressure figure mean? Is it a pressure the fans might encounter behind the blades? If this is true I can’t imagine a situation that would cause this.
#15
Former Vendor
Originally Posted by shafrs3
Mr. Dewitt,
I've looked at the PDF file detailing the specs of the Spal 11" dual fan unit. With respect to the static pressure column that relates to airflow and amperage values, what does this static pressure figure mean? Is it a pressure the fans might encounter behind the blades? If this is true I can’t imagine a situation that would cause this.
I've looked at the PDF file detailing the specs of the Spal 11" dual fan unit. With respect to the static pressure column that relates to airflow and amperage values, what does this static pressure figure mean? Is it a pressure the fans might encounter behind the blades? If this is true I can’t imagine a situation that would cause this.
#17
Pro
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: The Valley of The Sun AZ
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tom,
Bought your direct fit with the dual SPALs, it only came with one relay so I wired both through that relay, I blew the fuse the other day and started thinking one relay wasn't such a great idea, so now I see SPAL has this new module out, can you PM me the price on this and maybe an ideal of how to make it work with the sender I have installed instead of having to wire it into the sender going to the gauge. I like having senders at two distinctly different spots on the engine.
Bought your direct fit with the dual SPALs, it only came with one relay so I wired both through that relay, I blew the fuse the other day and started thinking one relay wasn't such a great idea, so now I see SPAL has this new module out, can you PM me the price on this and maybe an ideal of how to make it work with the sender I have installed instead of having to wire it into the sender going to the gauge. I like having senders at two distinctly different spots on the engine.
#18
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: 2010 C6 Grand Sport Convertible
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Tom,
I would be interested in the pricing as well. I think that is a good design.
QLakes@charter.net
Mike
I would be interested in the pricing as well. I think that is a good design.
QLakes@charter.net
Mike
#20
Former Vendor
Originally Posted by tersian
Tom,
Bought your direct fit with the dual SPALs, it only came with one relay so I wired both through that relay, I blew the fuse the other day and started thinking one relay wasn't such a great idea, so now I see SPAL has this new module out, can you PM me the price on this and maybe an ideal of how to make it work with the sender I have installed instead of having to wire it into the sender going to the gauge. I like having senders at two distinctly different spots on the engine.
Bought your direct fit with the dual SPALs, it only came with one relay so I wired both through that relay, I blew the fuse the other day and started thinking one relay wasn't such a great idea, so now I see SPAL has this new module out, can you PM me the price on this and maybe an ideal of how to make it work with the sender I have installed instead of having to wire it into the sender going to the gauge. I like having senders at two distinctly different spots on the engine.
controller