My homemade valve spring compresser
11-29-2005, 08:47 AM
#1
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My homemade valve spring compresser
As you know I tried taking my new heads apart and because of the roller springs I was unable to use a normal valve spring compresser.
With advice from forum member I made my own. I started with a 2 inch piece of 1 ¾ round steel. I drilled a 1 1/8 hole almost all the way through for clearance. The titanium retainers are exactly 1.500 inches in diameter so I bored a hole 1.505 for clearance around the retainer and .100 deep. Springs are 1.550 diameter so it leave a .025 lip around the retainer which I wanted to press on. I then took a 1 inch milling cutter and cut a pair of large windows to work through.
I checked the fit on the adapter on a spring and it fit snug but at the same time slid easily over the retainer and rested on the spring lip.
I then took a spare large heavy duty C clamp and after first trying to drill and tap a hole in the end for the adapter found the clamp too hard to drill so I welded the adapter to it.
I also wanted to protect the valve from the steel swivel so I took a piece of nylon and machined a boot to press over the swivel and protect the valve. I also rounded the end of the nylon slightly so it would seat in the center of the valve.
I didn’t go with putting a nut on the end of the screw for the impact because I wanted to give it a try without. For things like heads I like to work in the house in my workroom right off the rec room. This way I can be in the house with the wife and if she is on the computer she is only 10 feet away and we can talk. I get to work on the car and yet keep her company. I also like to take my time, have everything at room temperature and just be **** about it. With air I would be forced to use the shop and I really found the handle effortless to turn. I also had absolutely no problems breaking the keepers loose. The springs are about $250 AM and the titanium retains I don’t have a clue. I will trade the springs in and might also sell the retainers.
I took about 15 minutes to remove all 8 valves but you need someplace to keep them organized.
Years ago I made a whole series of different hardwood blocks. This is a thick piece of maple, drilled for the springs, the valves and the keeps. It help organize everything and keep them in order and in place.
With advice from forum member I made my own. I started with a 2 inch piece of 1 ¾ round steel. I drilled a 1 1/8 hole almost all the way through for clearance. The titanium retainers are exactly 1.500 inches in diameter so I bored a hole 1.505 for clearance around the retainer and .100 deep. Springs are 1.550 diameter so it leave a .025 lip around the retainer which I wanted to press on. I then took a 1 inch milling cutter and cut a pair of large windows to work through.
I checked the fit on the adapter on a spring and it fit snug but at the same time slid easily over the retainer and rested on the spring lip.
I then took a spare large heavy duty C clamp and after first trying to drill and tap a hole in the end for the adapter found the clamp too hard to drill so I welded the adapter to it.
I also wanted to protect the valve from the steel swivel so I took a piece of nylon and machined a boot to press over the swivel and protect the valve. I also rounded the end of the nylon slightly so it would seat in the center of the valve.
I didn’t go with putting a nut on the end of the screw for the impact because I wanted to give it a try without. For things like heads I like to work in the house in my workroom right off the rec room. This way I can be in the house with the wife and if she is on the computer she is only 10 feet away and we can talk. I get to work on the car and yet keep her company. I also like to take my time, have everything at room temperature and just be **** about it. With air I would be forced to use the shop and I really found the handle effortless to turn. I also had absolutely no problems breaking the keepers loose. The springs are about $250 AM and the titanium retains I don’t have a clue. I will trade the springs in and might also sell the retainers.
I took about 15 minutes to remove all 8 valves but you need someplace to keep them organized.
Years ago I made a whole series of different hardwood blocks. This is a thick piece of maple, drilled for the springs, the valves and the keeps. It help organize everything and keep them in order and in place.
11-29-2005, 09:46 AM
#2
Team Owner
I see that you drew a circle on the exhaust ports. I hope that your not touching the bottom of the at all and making them more into a "D" shape.
I really don't think that those springs caused that "C" clamp to flex!
I really don't think that those springs caused that "C" clamp to flex!
11-29-2005, 10:00 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by gkull
I see that you drew a circle on the exhaust ports. I hope that your not touching the bottom of the at all and making them more into a "D" shape.
I really don't think that those springs caused that "C" clamp to flex!
I really don't think that those springs caused that "C" clamp to flex!
I intend to open the ports to the line but on the bottom extend the flat out to the line. That is only a crude layout but it gives me the idea.
Look at my other post on impressions of the Brodix head and you will see if you look at some of the valve seats that a machined lip actually protrudes into the port causeing a very rough edge. This is easy to blend but I would have thought that Brodix would already do the obvious things to up the flow.
11-29-2005, 01:23 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Norval Glad to see that it worked out well for you. 
And thank you for showing a pic that is great. But now everyone will want one lol.
I also agree to replace the titanium retainers with steel units as I have seen too many of the titanium retainers pull through for heavy street use. I just try and reduce the amount of stuff I have to worry about.
And thank you for showing a pic that is great. But now everyone will want one lol. I also agree to replace the titanium retainers with steel units as I have seen too many of the titanium retainers pull through for heavy street use. I just try and reduce the amount of stuff I have to worry about.
Last edited by SHAKERATTLEROLL; 11-29-2005 at 01:30 PM.
11-29-2005, 01:39 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Had to do the same thing for a Alfa Romeo GTV6 a while back.... but I just made an adapter that fit my regular/production valve spring compressor... out of black pipe. Seems to be a common solution.
Nice job.... yours looks a lot nicer than my black pipe solution.
Nice job.... yours looks a lot nicer than my black pipe solution.
11-30-2005, 11:45 AM
#8
Race Director
Norval do you think I could i duplicate your valve spring end by using a deep socket black impact socket with a slot cut into the side for access to the valve retainers and weld this to the c clamp?
11-30-2005, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
Norval do you think I could i duplicate your valve spring end by using a deep socket black impact socket with a slot cut into the side for access to the valve retainers and weld this to the c clamp?
I know alot of my mods require your own machine shop or access to one but I grew up with a machine shop at my disposal so I think as if everyone has one.
