Will Radiator Stop Leak Work for the Heater Core?
#21
Originally Posted by GUSTO14
Just a word of advice regarding radiator seal and Bar's-Leak in particular. This stuff will tend to collect/settle in the water jacket and can block water flow around the cylinders.
...
I agree with those that suggest by-passing the heater core if you must use the car, but I would replace it before I would use any stop leak.
GUSTO
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I agree with those that suggest by-passing the heater core if you must use the car, but I would replace it before I would use any stop leak.
GUSTO
While stop-leak may (and often does) solve the problem, it also introduces long-term problems, as Gusto has mentioned.
It coats the entire cooling system- radiator, heater core, block coolant passages... everywhere. I've even seen it (temporarily) solve head-gasket leaks...
BUT... The very fact that it coats the inside of the entire cooling system, is also the problem. The coating inside the radiator slows the rate of heat transfer, making the radiator less efficient, and reduces the cooling capacity of it. The engine sees the same effect, and more heat stays in the block, instead of being dumped like it is supposed to be...
IF you were planning on selling the car, and didn't want to spend any more money then necessary to roll it down the road, then I'd understand it (though I do NOT agree with said practice). People do this sort of thing all the time...
But if you're keeping it...? If you want to prevent problems from cropping up, from using this stuff....? Then by-pass the heater core, order up a new one... And take a Saturday afternoon to fix it...
Just my $.02.
#22
Melting Slicks
I agree, replace the heater core or bypass. Be aware where you buy the core. I recently replaced a core in the 96Z28 with a Autozone part, and later developed a leak; bad new core. Pay the extra $$ and get a GM heater core, not something from a discount auto store.
#23
Racer
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OK, if I added the votes right as tempting as dumping some stop leak in the radiator sounds I'll be doing a bypass this weekend. What are hose sizes that need to be coupled together? What size piece of copper tubing do I need to use? aren't there hose clamps already on the ends of the hoses holding it to the heater core? Lastly, How well will my defroster work without heat (it is a daily driver year round in NJ)?
#24
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Originally Posted by Hwy St*r
OK, if I added the votes right as tempting as dumping some stop leak in the radiator sounds I'll be doing a bypass this weekend. What are hose sizes that need to be coupled together? What size piece of copper tubing do I need to use? aren't there hose clamps already on the ends of the hoses holding it to the heater core? Lastly, How well will my defroster work without heat (it is a daily driver year round in NJ)?
~Jay
#25
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Hwy St*r
OK, if I added the votes right as tempting as dumping some stop leak in the radiator sounds I'll be doing a bypass this weekend. What are hose sizes that need to be coupled together? ... How well will my defroster work without heat (it is a daily driver year round in NJ)?
Unfortunately the ole defroster an't gonna work too well without some heat... just don't sing too much while you're driving to work...
GUSTO
#26
Originally Posted by 74 vert
I agree, replace the heater core or bypass. Be aware where you buy the core. I recently replaced a core in the 96Z28 with a Autozone part, and later developed a leak; bad new core. Pay the extra $$ and get a GM heater core, not something from a discount auto store.
This is not good news. I replaced my heater core with one from Autozone ~$50.00 last April. I noted it was made in Mexico but still installed it although alarm bells were going off in my head.
The new core has only about 1 hour of use on it as I drove the car to the paint shop after installing. Wonder how long it will last once I start driving the car consistently???????
PS: I miss "Made In The U.S.A."
#27
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St. Jude Donor '11, '16-'17
I had two heater cores go bad on me in the last year (both rustangs). Alumiseal prevented the windshields from fogging up and allowed me to use the heater until I could take the time to replace the heater cores. It's certainly not a permanent fix, but might buy you some time.
I agree with others about Bars leak and those types of products. They can cause more problems than they solve. Bars settled in the bottom of radiator of an old truck I had and no coolant would flow until the ambient temperature warmed up.
I agree with others about Bars leak and those types of products. They can cause more problems than they solve. Bars settled in the bottom of radiator of an old truck I had and no coolant would flow until the ambient temperature warmed up.
#28
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Originally Posted by Hwy St*r
OK, if I added the votes right as tempting as dumping some stop leak in the radiator sounds I'll be doing a bypass this weekend. What are hose sizes that need to be coupled together? What size piece of copper tubing do I need to use? aren't there hose clamps already on the ends of the hoses holding it to the heater core? Lastly, How well will my defroster work without heat (it is a daily driver year round in NJ)?
#29
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74vette
Yes, disconnect both hoses from heater core and connect the two together ... forming a loop from water pump to intake manifold. Note: some folks have their shutoff valve in the return side from core to intake ... but ... that doesn't address the higher-pressure hose from pump to core. Although one is a feed & one is a return ... even the return hose will have some pressure in it ... particularly when hot and engine off. To truly isolate the core ... either take it out of the loop by connecting the hoses as you suggested ... or install 2 shutoff valves ... one in feed & one in return. In a "pinch" I did use visegrip pliers for a SHORT term, only-to-get-me-home bubbafix.
#30
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#31
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Hi,
I can't even remember back as far as October, 2005.
Regards,
Alan
I can't even remember back as far as October, 2005.
Regards,
Alan
#35
Cruising
I will never use the coolant leak products ever again, They will block passages in radiator, restrict cooling of engine block passages and cause engine failure because of excessive heat build up. The heater core fails because of corrosion from incorrect fluids in radiator. Do not use tap water added to antifreeze. The chemicals in tap water cause a reaction to the metals in the cooling system. The resulting corrosion of the radiator or heater core are the because of the chemical reaction. Best thing to do when changing or adding antifreeze is to buy correct antifreeze and distilled water, make a 50 50 solution mix. Why buy the 50/50 mix from antifreeze companies. If you mix yourself you will save several dollars since one gallon of antifreeze and one gallon of distilled water cost lest than two gallons of 50/50 premixed antifreeze.