reamer help + front steer stuff
08-24-2005, 03:41 PM
#21
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An arch is best in taking loads pointing from the top to bottom, spreading the load out through it's legs, arches are not very good at sideways loads where a triangle is
08-25-2005, 01:54 PM
#22
Heel & Toe
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The taper is 1.500 inch per 12 inch - 8:1 taper. The small end of the taper should measure .516 and the straight shank at the large end of the taper measures .626. This is for Moog version of the tie rod end ES323.
08-25-2005, 05:07 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
An arch is best in taking loads pointing from the top to bottom, spreading the load out through it's legs, arches are not very good at sideways loads where a triangle is
08-26-2005, 04:25 AM
#26
Instructor
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Hey TT,
Most tire and suspension shops have those in their arsenal. I once borrowed one from my local guy to fix a buggered one on my truck. Try that before you shell out the bucks.
Those a-arms look like the pole position ones I got for my car they work great.
Good luck!
Most tire and suspension shops have those in their arsenal. I once borrowed one from my local guy to fix a buggered one on my truck. Try that before you shell out the bucks.
Those a-arms look like the pole position ones I got for my car they work great.
Good luck!
08-26-2005, 12:27 PM
#27
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Yes, but I'm over here on the other side of the pond where there are no shops, no tinkerers..no nothing so no one will have it. The arms are pole position indeed.
08-26-2005, 07:02 PM
#28
Drifting
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I saw a way to make a reamer for home use. A length of drill rod was cut at an angle.
Looking at it on the side, slice from near the middle at the top down the side at an angle. About 2" down for a 1/2" or so rod. The angle isn't critical. Just a big wedge taken off.
I don't see any reason you can't machine a taper and take that wedge shape out of it for the cutting surface. You would only need to know where the large end needs to stop. This is a hand use only tool with limited uses. Sounds like about what you need?
Of course it isn't going to cut a taper only ream one already made.
Now that I think about it the wedge would have to stop at the large end.
If you do try it might do a test run since the straight one seems to be piloted not sure on the tapered surface.
Looking at it on the side, slice from near the middle at the top down the side at an angle. About 2" down for a 1/2" or so rod. The angle isn't critical. Just a big wedge taken off.
I don't see any reason you can't machine a taper and take that wedge shape out of it for the cutting surface. You would only need to know where the large end needs to stop. This is a hand use only tool with limited uses. Sounds like about what you need?
Of course it isn't going to cut a taper only ream one already made.
Now that I think about it the wedge would have to stop at the large end.
If you do try it might do a test run since the straight one seems to be piloted not sure on the tapered surface.
08-26-2005, 07:05 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Yes, but I'm over here on the other side of the pond where there are no shops, no tinkerers..no nothing so no one will have it. The arms are pole position indeed.
Sorry
08-27-2005, 07:25 AM
#30
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I need to do a little reaming on my spindles also...I'll just buy my own thanks for the offer...if it was just the steering arms I'd send them your way immediately 
thanks for the offer...if it was just the steering arms I'd send them your way immediately
