Seeping Gas Tank repair???
#1
Instructor
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Seeping Gas Tank repair???
My tank I notices is seeping not leaking or dripping just seeping. And the gasoline fumes and odour are very strong. So I was wondering if there is anything I can coat it with that will prolong the life of the tank.....or is it done.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 1999
Location: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
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It's not a fix (since it sounds like you have pin hole rust through from the outside), but POR-15 makes a gas tank sealer that is phenomenal. It would give you another 4-5 years out of that tank. The trade off, however, is that you would need to pull the tank to put the sealer in it. Once it's out, new ones are only $199, so you'd have to make a decision.
#3
Burning Brakes
gas tank repair
i noticed i have rust in my tank and its gotten into my fuel line, causing fuel starvation at wot... i was reading up on the por15 stuff but if i'm gonna have to drop the tank i figure i might as well go new...
#5
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Originally Posted by hirevroller
What would happen if I just coated the outside off it will it stop the fumes for now like for a month or two.?
#6
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by hirevroller
What would happen if I just coated the outside off it will it stop the fumes for now like for a month or two.?
Trust me, been there and done that. Spend the $200 now, do it right the first time, and you'll be much happier in the end. The area where the fuel leaks results in it dripping down on the spare tire lid then running onto the mufflers. A burnt Corvette is not a happy Corvette.
#7
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2005
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I just used por -15 to paint my tank not as sealer just rust enhibitor my 80 has a fiberglass inner tank and steal outer shell so it wouldnt leak if there was a rust hole in the shell im not sure if it would fit on a stingray but if it did it would probably last longer.But still isnt there a bladder in the stingray style vettes to prevent a leak if the shell is corroded?
#8
Le Mans Master
Just drop the tank and replace it. It's really not that difficult to do. I did it with a fully welded exhaust. You just have to unbolt the pipes from the headers (or manifolds) and rotate the pipes out of the way. Dropping the tank sounds like a lot of work, but in the scope of C3 projects, it's really not that bad..maybe an all day thing if you have never taken the tank out before and are learning how to do it.
Empty the tank first. Siphon the gas out and let your buddies run it in their mowers or something. It adds weight and is flammable..so get rid of it. Remove the spare tire carrier (not hard, but you might need some rust remover and a breaker bar), and move the exhaust out of the way and you are all set. Then all you have to do is remove the tank straps, lines, and sending unit and work the tank out of it's nesting spot. It's a dirty job, but not really all that hard.
A couple hundred bucks for a tank, a few more bucks for some new soft lines to connect the tank to the hard lines, and a little sweat and you'll feel a lot better knowing the Vette isn't going to melt into a big blob of overheated fiberglass. Go for it.
Empty the tank first. Siphon the gas out and let your buddies run it in their mowers or something. It adds weight and is flammable..so get rid of it. Remove the spare tire carrier (not hard, but you might need some rust remover and a breaker bar), and move the exhaust out of the way and you are all set. Then all you have to do is remove the tank straps, lines, and sending unit and work the tank out of it's nesting spot. It's a dirty job, but not really all that hard.
A couple hundred bucks for a tank, a few more bucks for some new soft lines to connect the tank to the hard lines, and a little sweat and you'll feel a lot better knowing the Vette isn't going to melt into a big blob of overheated fiberglass. Go for it.
#9
Permatex part #765-1565 Instant Gas Tank Sealer is an epoxy stick designed to seal small holes in fuel tanks. It will work with fuel in the tank and when the area is wet with fuel. It sounds crazy but if you follow the instructions it really does work. It would of course be considered a temporary repair. I can say that I have had it continue to work for two years on a car that was driven only occassionally. Ultimately, you should replace the tank but this will buy you time to save money, locate a new one or whatever.
#10
Melting Slicks
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If you have a seep, leak, weep, or anything else that allows raw gas out of your tank, EVERYTHING you do to it is a bandaid. Gas is very explosive and I wouldn't risk my life, my car, or disabling and disfiguring myself to save the cost of repro tank. Go to Quanta Products and buy yourself a replacement tank. Period! I don't think gas tanks are much over $200.
The POR15 and other tank sealers are designed (I think) to seal in rust not cure a leaking tank. Would you let your wife/girlfriend/daughter/son/signifcant other drive a car that had the potential to explode?
Gary
The POR15 and other tank sealers are designed (I think) to seal in rust not cure a leaking tank. Would you let your wife/girlfriend/daughter/son/signifcant other drive a car that had the potential to explode?
Gary
#12
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I had a crack in my tank once and a radiator shop gave me this band aid repair advice - Rub a bar of soar in the crack and it will stop the leak. Sand the area clean. Apply a thick layer of bondo. And I drove another year with it - no leak!