2004r governor
06-25-2005, 07:01 PM
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2003
Location: Kerrville Texas
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I think this is adjusted using the TV cable. Go to www.Bowtie.com there might be something on that site that will help you out. Kona
06-25-2005, 07:05 PM
#3
Team Owner
The grand national governor shifts at 5000 - 5200 rpm. If you buy any other governor (other than Grabd National) it'll shift at 4500 rpm. I just had mine modified to shift higher..
06-25-2005, 07:06 PM
#4
Team Owner
Well, you can also get a stiffer spring for the governor. The stiffer the spring, the lower the shift rpm.
06-25-2005, 09:21 PM
#6
Team Owner
My modified governor shifts at 6000 RPM..
My stock governor shifts at 5000 - 5200 RPM
The way to change the shift point can be achieved by
A) stiffer or softer spring, stiffer for lower shift point and softer for higher shift point
B) adding weight to the weights on the governor to lower or grinding down the weights to raise the shift point.
Either mod WILL effect part throttle shift points too!
If you want your current part throttle shift points to stay the same but your WOT shift points to be higher, the valve body will have to be modified..
My stock governor shifts at 5000 - 5200 RPM
The way to change the shift point can be achieved by
A) stiffer or softer spring, stiffer for lower shift point and softer for higher shift point
B) adding weight to the weights on the governor to lower or grinding down the weights to raise the shift point.
Either mod WILL effect part throttle shift points too!
If you want your current part throttle shift points to stay the same but your WOT shift points to be higher, the valve body will have to be modified..
06-27-2005, 11:10 AM
#8
Originally Posted by kona
I think this is adjusted using the TV cable. Go to www.Bowtie.com there might be something on that site that will help you out. Kona
However, adjusting it slightly will effect your shifting points as well as the hardness or the softness of the shift. Do this at your own risk because it is very easy to ruin the transmission. I think it will also impact WOT shift points.
06-27-2005, 11:22 AM
#9
Team Owner
The way that I setup my TV cable is that the cable is fully pulled out at WOT.
That setup works best for me.
That setup works best for me.
06-27-2005, 12:33 PM
#10
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
The way that I setup my TV cable is that the cable is fully pulled out at WOT.
That setup works best for me.
That setup works best for me.
That being said, you can keep shifting the same at WOT and change part throttle shifting with geometric changes to the TV cable attachment to the throttle, but be very careful.
06-27-2005, 10:41 PM
#11
Team Owner
Originally Posted by SpyderD
That should be the final WOT setting but what is also important is the starting setting and the geometry of the TV cable travel. Some websites have the details of the exact angle of travel, the distance of travel, etc - in summary you want it to travel farther at low throttle (during the first half of the throttle movement), and less as you approach WOT. Actually you should set it with a pressure tester, I never have, I just used trial and error. I do know if you don't have enough pressure you will ruin the transmission. An important note is that the geometry for the TV cable attachment to Holley carbs is all wrong. I was either shifting too late with part throttle or getting flare ups at WOT shifting at the drag strip until I got a corrector throttle connection plate sold by an aftermarket company.
That being said, you can keep shifting the same at WOT and change part throttle shifting with geometric changes to the TV cable attachment to the throttle, but be very careful.
That being said, you can keep shifting the same at WOT and change part throttle shifting with geometric changes to the TV cable attachment to the throttle, but be very careful.
06-27-2005, 10:48 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
How do you change the geometry? My setup came with carb brackets for my carb.. Can't really see where I could change the geometry...
06-27-2005, 10:53 PM
#13
Team Owner
Originally Posted by turtlevette
I've noticed on the Q-Jets that were stock with the 700R4 have a cam mounted on the butterfly bracket that gives a non-linear tug on the cable.
06-27-2005, 11:12 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Q-Jet =
i wonder if my 700 has ever shifted right because of lacking that cam.
06-27-2005, 11:20 PM
#15
Team Owner
Don't think that there's a big enough market for people using a q-jet with a 200R4... Other than on all original cars, I don't see a reason to run a q-jet
06-28-2005, 08:39 AM
#16
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
How do you change the geometry? My setup came with carb brackets for my carb.. Can't really see where I could change the geometry...
http://www.redrider.us/700r4_perform...smission_p.htm
Way down the page on item #29:
#29. 700R4, adapter for a Holley carburetor to install the throttle valve cable correctly. Usually this part will correct a hard light throttle 1-2 shift. With this kit getting the correct geometry is easy. Cost $33.00. Adapter for the Edelbrock carburetor $35.00. If you have a 700R4 or 200-4R transmission and one of these two carburetors you need this part. Not needed with Holley Street Avenger.
I've also seen an aftermarket connector which gives you several hole options where you can change the connection fast for "performance" or "soft/street" shifting applications but I can't remember were I saw it.
