Replaced radiator, water pump and 160 thermostat, overheats worst now.
06-19-2005, 06:59 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
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Replaced radiator, water pump and 160 thermostat, overheats worst now.
My old radiator was leaking only sometimes. So I just replaced the radiator with a new one. New water pump and 160 thermostat.
Pretty sure I bled out the air in the system. When I start is up after idleing for awhile temp goes to 200 and climbs. Had the cap open and water starts to stream out slowly. It seems like the thermostat is not opening because when I first started the car and let it come up to temp the water level did not drop. It is new and I am pretty sure that I put it in, in the correct position. I drove the 77 Vette for about 5 minutes and temp went past 200 and continued to climb so I drove it back home and shut it down.
Before I replaced the old parts car ran cooler about 180-200. I would think that after changing all of these parts it would run cooler.
Any ideas? I haven't checked the timing yet but even if the timing is off I would think it should still run cooler with the new parts.
Pretty sure I bled out the air in the system. When I start is up after idleing for awhile temp goes to 200 and climbs. Had the cap open and water starts to stream out slowly. It seems like the thermostat is not opening because when I first started the car and let it come up to temp the water level did not drop. It is new and I am pretty sure that I put it in, in the correct position. I drove the 77 Vette for about 5 minutes and temp went past 200 and continued to climb so I drove it back home and shut it down.
Before I replaced the old parts car ran cooler about 180-200. I would think that after changing all of these parts it would run cooler.
Any ideas? I haven't checked the timing yet but even if the timing is off I would think it should still run cooler with the new parts.
06-19-2005, 07:04 PM
#3
Drifting
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Might want to check the install of the thermostat sometimes the easiest fixes can be a nightmare. Also you might see if your radiator hoses are good I understand the lower ones are prone to collapsing.
Kona
Kona
06-19-2005, 07:10 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
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Originally Posted by kona
Might want to check the install of the thermostat sometimes the easiest fixes can be a nightmare. Also you might see if your radiator hoses are good I understand the lower ones are prone to collapsing.
Kona
Kona
06-19-2005, 07:53 PM
#6
The best parts won't work if you don't move air through the radiator. If fan is a stock set up you must have a good seal between the rad support / rad / shroud assembly. Also you must have the air dam under the front end in tact to deflect air up into the radiator.
06-19-2005, 08:00 PM
#7
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Originally Posted by DMONSVETTE
Pretty sure I bled out the air in the system. When I start is up after idleing for awhile temp goes to 200 and climbs. Had the cap open and water starts to stream out slowly.
I also think that you can drain your radiator 'till it's 1/2 full, let it run for a while, then fill it...
It's worth a try...good luck
06-19-2005, 09:16 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by Avette4me
Had the same thing when I changed heads. Turned out there was air in the system afterall. To "burp" it, I cut the bottom out of a plastic oil can and set the cap end in the radiator....the coolant would rise into the oil can 'till it almost flowed over, then fall. When it came down, I added fluid...after a few rounds of this, it quit bubbling over and no problems since...
I also think that you can drain your radiator 'till it's 1/2 full, let it run for a while, then fill it...
It's worth a try...good luck
I also think that you can drain your radiator 'till it's 1/2 full, let it run for a while, then fill it...
It's worth a try...good luck
Thanks for the ideas guys!
06-19-2005, 09:39 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
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Typically, I let the engine warm up so the Thermostat opens. Then I remove the radiator cap and bring the RPMs up to 2-2.5K. Then fill the radiator completely.
06-19-2005, 10:31 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
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Just test drove it again after putting the old t/s back in. It got up to about 210 in about five minutes of driving. I am guessing that there must still be air in the system. This s**ks!!! 
I'll try the above suggestion but I am pretty sure that I did that. But it also seemed like the water in the radiator just wants to come out and go to the overflow with the cap off. Maybe I'm not letting it run long enough.
I'll try the above suggestion but I am pretty sure that I did that. But it also seemed like the water in the radiator just wants to come out and go to the overflow with the cap off. Maybe I'm not letting it run long enough.
06-19-2005, 10:54 PM
#11
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If it helps, I'm pretty sure mine has the 195 thermostat in it. When you first start it, it will go to 220-225 before the thermostat opens. After that, it will maintain the 195-205 or so temp.
06-19-2005, 11:30 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
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Originally Posted by WhichVette?
If it helps, I'm pretty sure mine has the 195 thermostat in it. When you first start it, it will go to 220-225 before the thermostat opens. After that, it will maintain the 195-205 or so temp.
I just checked to make sure that it's a four-row radiator, same as the old one but the slits in each row appears to be narrower.
I just idled the car with the cap off untill the gauge read alittle past
the half way mark and the water level did not go down. At that point it started to overflow, let it go for a few seconds more and then I shut it off.
Is it possible that there is still an air pocket somewhere in the system?
How do I get it out?
06-20-2005, 12:02 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
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Originally Posted by WhichVette?
The above posts tell you how to get it out. Also, did you squeeze the top hose to see if it was hot? It will get hot as soon as the thermostat opens.
Yes the hose gets hot. Maybe I'm not letting the temp get hot enough for the thermostat to open?
06-20-2005, 12:23 AM
#15
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St. Jude Donor '05
I bet you a dollar to a donut it's air. Been there many times with many cars. Are you seeing some water circulation so you know that the water pump impeller is working?
I also always turn the heater on full when bleeding the system of air.
STW!
Platato
I also always turn the heater on full when bleeding the system of air.
STW!
Platato
Last edited by platato; 06-20-2005 at 12:27 AM.
06-20-2005, 12:30 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
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Originally Posted by platato
I bet you a dollar to a donut it's air. Been there many times with many cars. Are you seeing some water circulation so you know that the water pump impeller is working?
I also always turn the heater on full when bleeding the system of air.
STW!
Platato
I also always turn the heater on full when bleeding the system of air.
STW!
Platato
06-20-2005, 04:59 AM
#17
Le Mans Master
I’m no expert here but I know that there is different water pumps like reverse flow that goes with the serpentine belts? Did you by chance buy the opposite turn pump?
Just trying to help.
Just trying to help.
06-20-2005, 08:49 AM
#18
Melting Slicks
Have you checked the fan? Does it have a thermostatic or fluid coupler? If this has failed it will overheat when the car is not moving. fan should spin freely when engine is cold and stiffen up when hot
Good luck..
Good luck..
06-20-2005, 09:13 AM
#19
Race Director
Originally Posted by DMONSVETTE
My old radiator was leaking only sometimes. So I just replaced the radiator with a new one. New water pump and 160 thermostat.
Pretty sure I bled out the air in the system. When I start is up after idleing for awhile temp goes to 200 and climbs. Had the cap open and water starts to stream out slowly. It seems like the thermostat is not opening because when I first started the car and let it come up to temp the water level did not drop. It is new and I am pretty sure that I put it in, in the correct position. I drove the 77 Vette for about 5 minutes and temp went past 200 and continued to climb so I drove it back home and shut it down.
Before I replaced the old parts car ran cooler about 180-200. I would think that after changing all of these parts it would run cooler.
Any ideas? I haven't checked the timing yet but even if the timing is off I would think it should still run cooler with the new parts.
Pretty sure I bled out the air in the system. When I start is up after idleing for awhile temp goes to 200 and climbs. Had the cap open and water starts to stream out slowly. It seems like the thermostat is not opening because when I first started the car and let it come up to temp the water level did not drop. It is new and I am pretty sure that I put it in, in the correct position. I drove the 77 Vette for about 5 minutes and temp went past 200 and continued to climb so I drove it back home and shut it down.
Before I replaced the old parts car ran cooler about 180-200. I would think that after changing all of these parts it would run cooler.
Any ideas? I haven't checked the timing yet but even if the timing is off I would think it should still run cooler with the new parts.
06-20-2005, 10:28 AM
#20
Melting Slicks
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If it is air in the system what I do to help bleed the air out is to drill a small hole in the thermostat to allow the air to escape and also jack the front of the car up to help the air escape. If all the parts are working this will get your car running properly. I have seen bad thermostats new in the box. Put your new thermostat in a pan of water and bring it to a boil and see if it opens and closes the way it should. Hopefully you didn't get the wrong water pump.
Bernie
Bernie