rear spindle removal
#4
Burning Brakes
77JeffVette
I've used a "spindle knocker" successfully with the trailing arm on or off the car. You can get it from Mid-America or probably other Corvette related vendors. It screws onto the spindle right up to the shoulder and you strike if firmly with a hammer. I few sharp blows and it pops out fairly easily, especially with the assembly off the car.
Now this will get an accusation of "Bubba", but 40 years ago we weren't blessed with the miriad of parts and tools, so maybe a few on the forum have done this also. Mind you, I'm not suggesting that you do this, but I have used the wheel lugs to attach a large chain to it and then "whipped" the chain to remove the spindle. This was after I ruined a slide-hammer, and in another instance with the assembly off of the car I mushroomed the spindle end trying to press it out.
Ahhhh, the new tools make it so much easier.
Ol Blue
I've used a "spindle knocker" successfully with the trailing arm on or off the car. You can get it from Mid-America or probably other Corvette related vendors. It screws onto the spindle right up to the shoulder and you strike if firmly with a hammer. I few sharp blows and it pops out fairly easily, especially with the assembly off the car.
Now this will get an accusation of "Bubba", but 40 years ago we weren't blessed with the miriad of parts and tools, so maybe a few on the forum have done this also. Mind you, I'm not suggesting that you do this, but I have used the wheel lugs to attach a large chain to it and then "whipped" the chain to remove the spindle. This was after I ruined a slide-hammer, and in another instance with the assembly off of the car I mushroomed the spindle end trying to press it out.
Ahhhh, the new tools make it so much easier.
Ol Blue
#6
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
I used a spindle knocker (about $15 to $20) and a 2 pound hammer. Worked well.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
#7
I bought the spindle press and crack the caliper mount. Hitting the spindle knocker did nothing as the trailing arm moved when I hit it. I did eventually got'em out by removing the strut rod and bearing support as a whole, leaving just the trailing arm. I supported the strut rod/bearing support unit with two barbells and three wacks it was out.
#9
I was thinking of doing it that way by removing the bearing support and then using my shop press. On most of the TA repairs that I have done, we simply replaced the TA with rebuilt ones. Does anyone know if the bearings are easily obtained at a bearing supply or automotive supply store? Or do I have to order the bearings before hand from a Corvette supplier?
I have used the bearing knocker before to replace a bent spindle. And it works pretty well......
I have used the bearing knocker before to replace a bent spindle. And it works pretty well......
#10
Tech Contributor
Timken bearings are used and should be available for about $30 a side.
#11
Burning Brakes
AutoZone has Timken bearings
Ol Blue
Ol Blue
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Redondo Beach, California
Posts: 39,503
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A popular tool to buy is the "Spindle Removal Press." It is a triangular plate, with an attaching bolt at each corner, that attaches to the rear axle housing. Two of the bolts attach to the rear brake flange bracket and the third attaches to the spindle bearing housing strut rod attachment bracket. A large bolt in the middle of the removal press is torqued to push out the spindle.
This can be a dangerous tool to use. If your spindle is really stuck/corroded, the large amounts of pressure generated by this tool will bend the flanges of the rear brake flange bracket. When these flanges bend, it distorts/ruins the geometry of the rear brake caliper attachment. In other words, you may ruin the rear brakeflange brackets.
I used one of these tools to remove my spindles. My spindles popped loose at about 100 foot pounds of torque. When I mounted my brake calipers, I had to use a small amount of shimming. It appears I may have distorted the flange brackets slightly.
This can be a dangerous tool to use. If your spindle is really stuck/corroded, the large amounts of pressure generated by this tool will bend the flanges of the rear brake flange bracket. When these flanges bend, it distorts/ruins the geometry of the rear brake caliper attachment. In other words, you may ruin the rear brakeflange brackets.
I used one of these tools to remove my spindles. My spindles popped loose at about 100 foot pounds of torque. When I mounted my brake calipers, I had to use a small amount of shimming. It appears I may have distorted the flange brackets slightly.
#13
Tech Contributor
I checked my records for the part numbers for you.
Inner brg's
cone= M86649
Cup= M86610
Outer Brg;s
cone= LM48548
cup=LM48510
Seal think it's the outer = NAPA 16757
If you want them in a kit form call Bairs.
Stay away from those spindle press tools. They're great if your spindle is a year old but for 30 year old bearings you'll wreck something for sure. I have one sitting in my tool cabinet, never used it. I remove the T arm and rebuild the whole thing. I use a 20 ton press to pop the spindle out and it takes a great deal of force to break it loose too!
Good luck
Gary
Inner brg's
cone= M86649
Cup= M86610
Outer Brg;s
cone= LM48548
cup=LM48510
Seal think it's the outer = NAPA 16757
If you want them in a kit form call Bairs.
Stay away from those spindle press tools. They're great if your spindle is a year old but for 30 year old bearings you'll wreck something for sure. I have one sitting in my tool cabinet, never used it. I remove the T arm and rebuild the whole thing. I use a 20 ton press to pop the spindle out and it takes a great deal of force to break it loose too!
Good luck
Gary
#15
Thanks for all the help. I have to replace the trailing arms anyway so I will remove the spindles at the bench. The arms are rotted bad. I patched them til I can do the job right. Vette work is new to me, I can see those arms are dirt/slush traps! I'm going to have to do the entire rear suspension, differential too. I'm hearing some howling on deceleration. Not looking forward to the down-time. There are only a few good months to drive in the Chicage area.