Frame prep...
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Frame prep...
I bought a NOS frame yesterday for my 80. The frame was purchased over 10 years ago but the guy sold the wrecked car before he installed it. He had the frame in a barn for 10+ years. There is some surface rust but it doesn't look used at all other then a mouse making a home inside the frame. 1/8 of the shipping tag was still attached to the front, part number still on the frame in two places, and no stud marks on the frame horns (part to connect upper control arms). I took my shop manual and checked two measurements. Ok, no problem there... Should I take the frame to a shop to make sure it’s 100% correct?
What about painting or coating it? Should I leave the frame as is? I would like to clean it up a little but I'm not sure what’s involved… sanding, painting or power coating a frame. I would like to do most or all of the work myself, if possible. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.
thank you
robert
What about painting or coating it? Should I leave the frame as is? I would like to clean it up a little but I'm not sure what’s involved… sanding, painting or power coating a frame. I would like to do most or all of the work myself, if possible. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.
thank you
robert
Last edited by Bluewasp; 04-18-2005 at 01:19 PM.
#2
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Use a product called Ospho, it will clean the surface rust...you can wipe it on with a cloth, or spray it on using a windex bottle, then rinse with hot water....and dry quickly, else the frame will start to oxydize.
Any hardware store will have Ospho.
Any hardware store will have Ospho.
#4
Le Mans Master
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Cruise-In VI Veteran
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
or take it to the sandblasters and then to a powdercoater, that would be what I would do.
#5
Instructor
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I used Rust Bullet on my frame. I was on a tight budget and this stuff worked great.
http://www.rustbullet.com
http://www.rustbullet.com
#7
But for powdercoating or painting the rust must be removed and wire brushing leaves a smooth surface and I don't believe in rust encapsulators and all that stuff, a rough surface is the best for adhering of any coating, paint or powder.
#8
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Rust bullet worked very well for me. It's easy to use and you get great results. My frame's 38 years old and had heavy pitted rust in most places.
This stuff bonded like nothing I've never seen, and produced a glass like coating. I was amazed and so was everyone else that saw it.
Just my 2 cents...
This stuff bonded like nothing I've never seen, and produced a glass like coating. I was amazed and so was everyone else that saw it.
Just my 2 cents...
#9
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
But for powdercoating or painting the rust must be removed and wire brushing leaves a smooth surface and I don't believe in rust encapsulators and all that stuff, a rough surface is the best for adhering of any coating, paint or powder.
#10
Le Mans Master
I wire-brushed my whole frame down to clean metal or light rust.
Then, treated with Phosphoric acid based solution - like
George suggests (Must for Rust at Home Depot is another option).
After that, coated with POR15 and top coated with Krylon.
If you go as far as that, you had better plan on keeping the vette
for the rest of your life, as it is TONS of work to truly do it right.
I have yet to find a rust-covering coating that will also cover
old paint or clean shiny metal.
If your frame is only factory painted, you could get most of it
off with paint stripper ... then wire brush.
By "wire brush" - I mean a knotted hardened steel wire brush
on a 12,000 RPM 4" grinder ... otherwise it will take all year.
Grinders can be had for $20-$50 and wire wheels at HomeDepot
for under $10 in the power tool section.
Clean:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_01.jpg
Silver POR:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
Dusted with Krylon:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_03.jpg
Close-up:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_04.jpg
Then, treated with Phosphoric acid based solution - like
George suggests (Must for Rust at Home Depot is another option).
After that, coated with POR15 and top coated with Krylon.
If you go as far as that, you had better plan on keeping the vette
for the rest of your life, as it is TONS of work to truly do it right.
I have yet to find a rust-covering coating that will also cover
old paint or clean shiny metal.
If your frame is only factory painted, you could get most of it
off with paint stripper ... then wire brush.
By "wire brush" - I mean a knotted hardened steel wire brush
on a 12,000 RPM 4" grinder ... otherwise it will take all year.
Grinders can be had for $20-$50 and wire wheels at HomeDepot
for under $10 in the power tool section.
Clean:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_01.jpg
Silver POR:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
Dusted with Krylon:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_03.jpg
Close-up:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_04.jpg
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
Guys, I called a body shop that painted my wifes car and they recommended I power coat the frame. He suggested a place close by. I called and they told me they could power coat it for $550-.. good deal? thoughts??
I did read all your suggestions and it is very much appreciated. Thank you.
I did read all your suggestions and it is very much appreciated. Thank you.
Last edited by Bluewasp; 04-18-2005 at 09:22 PM.
#12
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '05
Good advice has been given, and the only thing I could add is to weld all of the seams and gusset the areas needed for support before doing the powdercoat.jim
#13
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Lot of people like powder coating - looks good and vrtiually indestructable. IMHO it is too expensive if all you want to do is keep your frame from rusting. I my view, the frame lasted 30 years with the HORRIBLE paint it left the factory with - modern paints should keep it good for 30 more. I had mine sandblasted as it was a Northern car and had a lot of surface rust, I then primed with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. I used a pump up sprayer witha wand to prime inside the rails. Topped of with a few coats of semi-gloss Rustoleum black. I have had no problem with rust, even where there are scratchs or chips as the primer stops and rust from spreading.