ruby76

What would happen if you had a couple stripped threads on the rear spindle so that the castle nut won't completely tighten? What is involved with replacing the rear spindle? No, I don't have any of the special tools, and No, Im not going to buy them. Can it be done by the more than apt do it yourselfer? Can it be done without those special pullers and presses? Hell the front spindle don't need special tools, so why does the rear?

moosie982

Hi, Why not just use a die to clean up the goobered threads? That way nothing needs to be taken apart except for the flange. Peace,,,Moosie

ruby76

Now THERE is a thought. I'll look into this route. Thanks for the suggestion!!

FLEXUSMARK

Keep in mind that it is not a standard thread size. So it will be a special die. After recently measuring my spindles I came up with a 3/4-20 thread.

GTR1999

You might get by using a thread file if the threads aren't rolled.Check the nut too to see if that's the problem area.
Replacing the spindle requires setting up new bearings as the old ones will be destroyed in the process. Follow the recent posts on rebuilding rear bearings.
Gary

ruby76

Went to a mom/pop parts store, found a replacement castlenut and ordered a new die to match as I didn't have that size. Supposed to be in this afternoon While I was there I picked up a little jar filled with cotter pins for good measure. Hope it does the trick :fingers crossed:

mandm1200

One suggestion that may also help. If the threads are good towards the end of the spindle, try to use them by using a washer(s) in front of them. There should be a several threads that originaly stuck out. Use enough washers so the nut is at the end of the spindle. I believe the nut being an 1/8" or 1/4" further out will not interfere with the flange. The castlenut is torque to 100 ft/lbs.

norvalwilhelm

If the threads a stripped there is also a good chance there is no material left to clean up. By stripping the raised part of any thread is pulled out, gone. What is there to clean up??? It requires a special die, I believe 3/4 x 20 and a holder, a special holder to get in there.
Since the axle is already destroyed it can be beaten out with a hammer but to set up the new bearings and spacer requires some tools and the knowledge of how to do it. For someone with experience it is simple but not for the novice.

NHvette

Precisely what I was thinking.

However, can this be heli-coiled ... or threaded to a smaller (maybe metric) size ?

Matt Gruber

there are numerous bubba fixes that will get it back on the road, but for how long?

turtlevette

Just long enough to get him to a car show this weekend. Thats all he wants to do.

you guys are harsh.

moosie982

Hi,,Just offering a suggestion, no need to get yer giddy-up Peace,,, Moosie

redvetracr

Sure you have the correct tool...it`s called a "checkbook"
...redvetracr

norvalwilhelm

Sorry guy. Guess I should read everyone elses reply before I answer. I often just read the question and skip to my anwser without checking what ever anyone else said first.

Matt Gruber

if only 2 are bad on the spindle, and the nut wont tighten, u need a new grade 8 nut. go easy on the torque 60%

onaqwst

i think there are two ways to approach this... one is to use another nut to help push it done while tighttening it... this way you have double hte threads to help pull...or u could build up with a washer or two if you don't have enough room to put a secong castle nut on.........if u use two castle nuts, make sure once they are tight against the bearing that u tight the outer nut to jamnut the other..


b

ruby76

I re-threaded the spindle last night, and installed my new castlenut, and a new cotter pin, went for a 10 mile test ride. Came back to the garage and jacked it up, checked for play. Still nice and tight. So out again for another 10 mile test ride, this time a little more aggressive. I had a little bit of a ticking noise. I got home and noticed the trim ring on one of the ralley's was loose and the cause of the noise. Jacked it up again and checked it out, still nice and tight.

The outer U-joint on this side is greasable, when teh suspension hangs, the little boss were the zert screws into hits the end of the spindle slightly. Guess this could be a cause of that slight ticking sound, but it looks like it doesn't touch when the weight of the car is on the suspension. Looks like the U=joint should have been installed with the zert on the inside.

turtlevette

Cool,

I'm glad you can make your car show now. Good job on the temp repair.

NHvette

So, a new nut did it ? ... and it torqued to 100 ft-lbs ?
Or did you install this temporarily without full torque ?
Even so, it should be fine for the short-term.

ruby76

I rethreaded the spindle and got a new nut. And no, it isn't torqued to a full 100lbs, I pulled pretty hard on it, but didn't "hang" on it. I didn't use my torque wrench but i figure i got a good 70-80 lbs or so. I was afraid I'd strip the threads I just cleaned up. I am ordering a new spindle, this was just for temp. (the show was in the works for a year)