Body twisting when car is on jack stands
02-04-2005, 03:36 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
You probably have a nice solid frame.
But, what about that neon-looking stop sign that appears
to be stolen city property ???
J/K - I have the same sign in my garage. Conveniently, I forgot where it came from.
But, what about that neon-looking stop sign that appears
to be stolen city property ???
J/K - I have the same sign in my garage. Conveniently, I forgot where it came from.
02-04-2005, 07:12 PM
#23
Instructor
Member Since: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 427V8
Interesting.
My 69 barely flexes at all. I've put it on jackstands and one is not touching due to a not flat garage floor. a 1/4" thick piece of plywood is too thick as it just makes another jackstand not touch. I have to be within about 1/8" too get all four jackstands supporting weight.
I wonder if it's because 69's have solid body mounts?
My 69 barely flexes at all. I've put it on jackstands and one is not touching due to a not flat garage floor. a 1/4" thick piece of plywood is too thick as it just makes another jackstand not touch. I have to be within about 1/8" too get all four jackstands supporting weight.
I wonder if it's because 69's have solid body mounts?
02-04-2005, 07:38 PM
#24
Race Director
I really think the verts just have less structural strength and there is a bit of give in the frame body. My frame is solid (I cleaned and painted about every inch of it) the birdcage has no rust but I still have some flex when I've had it on just four jackstands. In my sig pic you can see about where the 3rd set of jackstands are. I just happened to be in Auto Zone the day before taking my car off the road and the SUV jackstands were on sale.. You will need them to support the front frame where I mentioned or some cribbing to make up the difference of normal jackstands.. Dave..
02-05-2005, 01:10 AM
#25
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Athol NY
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thought I was an isolated case! My frame is rock solid, however if I have just one set of jack stands just behind the doors, then the front fender / door gap opens up at the top. Very disturbing!!!! 454 w/AC probably doesn't help.
02-05-2005, 12:02 PM
#26
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2001
Location: Oklahoma City ok
Posts: 1,670
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's normal....my C5 does it also.......and as you were told......Crack doors, t-top, and hood just to play it safe...they all flex.
Originally Posted by 81' Corvette Guy
When I was putting tires on my couple years ago..guys at tire place told my how they have instructions from management..for c3 cars that hood, doors and t tops my be adjar before jacking..was told this by the manager. Said they had a couple claims for t tops being broken as the glass would not flex when the frame jacked up and started twisting..just passing on the info..enjoy. Joe..
02-05-2005, 01:04 PM
#27
Racer
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: texas,, at last
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
guys,
i have a 77 and can jack it at any corner and both the doors open and close fine,
this was mentioned a while ago and i thought it was a good point,
when driving along the road and you go over a bump or pothole do you quickly open the door and then close it again????
if you go over a curb - do you again open and close the door????
i agree there is some flex, but if it stops you opening a door i think ya got problems somewhere,
just my 2 cents,
neil
i have a 77 and can jack it at any corner and both the doors open and close fine,
this was mentioned a while ago and i thought it was a good point,
when driving along the road and you go over a bump or pothole do you quickly open the door and then close it again????
if you go over a curb - do you again open and close the door????
i agree there is some flex, but if it stops you opening a door i think ya got problems somewhere,
just my 2 cents,
neil
02-05-2005, 04:29 PM
#29
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: pr, frederick md.
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MEGLADON
I have had mine up like this for several month, and have no issues
with the tops, doors, or TRUNK opening
or closing 
with the tops, doors, or TRUNK opening
or closing
02-05-2005, 10:35 PM
#30
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Redondo Beach, California
Posts: 39,571
Received 550 Likes
on
377 Posts
I've never had any frame flex problem on any C3 that I've owned. 1968,1969, and 1970.
I usually jack the car up from the rear differential spring bracket or in the front from the front crossover member that the front bumpers attach to. I sometiimes jack the car up from frame rail half way between the front and rear wheel.
Someone suggested using a hockey puck on the floor jack support arm. I've been doing that and it's a great idea. My floor jack doesn't scar the paint on the frame and I think the hockey puck makes a good solid attachment; less concern with something slipping. The hockey puck costs $1.49. I'm going to go buy two more. Somehow or another picking up the end of a car weighing 1500s does stress the hockey puck!!!
I usually jack the car up from the rear differential spring bracket or in the front from the front crossover member that the front bumpers attach to. I sometiimes jack the car up from frame rail half way between the front and rear wheel.
Someone suggested using a hockey puck on the floor jack support arm. I've been doing that and it's a great idea. My floor jack doesn't scar the paint on the frame and I think the hockey puck makes a good solid attachment; less concern with something slipping. The hockey puck costs $1.49. I'm going to go buy two more. Somehow or another picking up the end of a car weighing 1500s does stress the hockey puck!!!
02-06-2005, 10:52 AM
#31
I welded up the gaps between stitche welds....
on my 68.
I did the area between the wheels a few years ago. The car feels tighter and doesn't seem to shudder (of course, this is all subjective).
Then 2 years ago I closed up the stitches in the engine compartment while I had the engine out. I only did this because I had time and the engine was out. I couldn't tell much from this, but I'm glad I did it...I suspect it helps. I also rewelded any suspicious looking welds in this area since I had the engine out.
I did the area between the wheels a few years ago. The car feels tighter and doesn't seem to shudder (of course, this is all subjective).
Then 2 years ago I closed up the stitches in the engine compartment while I had the engine out. I only did this because I had time and the engine was out. I couldn't tell much from this, but I'm glad I did it...I suspect it helps. I also rewelded any suspicious looking welds in this area since I had the engine out.
