C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

4 bolt main 2 bolt main

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-10-2016, 08:44 PM
  #21  
fishslayer143
Drifting
 
fishslayer143's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 1,346
Received 156 Likes on 143 Posts

Default

The general rule of thumb is up to 400HP , a 2 Bolt Block is fine. After 400 HP ,4 Bolt is usually recommended ...If any kind of Power Adder is used, always go 4 Bolt . The 2 Bolt in your Stock L48 is more than enough ...
Old 01-13-2016, 10:41 AM
  #22  
MotorHead
Race Director
 
MotorHead's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2000
Location: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Posts: 17,569
Received 156 Likes on 126 Posts

Default

And at 600HP+ you need all five caps billet steel 4 bolts with the center 3 splayed


Old 01-13-2016, 01:36 PM
  #23  
Jebbysan
Dr. Detroit
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Jebbysan's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: New Braunfels Texas
Posts: 9,963
Received 3,893 Likes on 2,564 Posts

Default

I have built 2 bolt engines up to 500hp and they are fine if studded.
The real killer is not HP but RPM.......and shock load if in a drag application. A Drag Car that "HITS" hard and revs high has the main webs moving around quite a bit.
A stock 4 bolt is not much help as the somewhat added strength is meaning less after 7000 rpm and about 600 ponies as the stock oiling system just will not sustain it.....the system can be modified....but at that point an aftermarket block is the viable option.
Actually a 2 bolt makes a better base to add splay caps to as the register is not cut as wide...and the outer holes are not drilled.
This kind stock block modification was the norm until the 90's...when Dart, World and GM all started making HP blocks....(The Dart and World have proprietary oiling....something for another time.)
Even the Bowtie block had to be drilled to allow proper oil volume.

For all intents and purposes....the only thing a 4 bolt GM block is good for is for restoration purposes....or conversations over Crown Royal with people who want to argue.

It is great if you have it...but not necessary!

Jebby
Old 01-13-2016, 07:24 PM
  #24  
fishslayer143
Drifting
 
fishslayer143's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 1,346
Received 156 Likes on 143 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by MotorHead
And at 600HP+ you need all five caps billet steel 4 bolts with the center 3 splayed


Now we're talkin!!
Old 01-14-2016, 09:36 PM
  #25  
texasbaehr
Racer
 
texasbaehr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Montgomery TX
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by kidneyboy
What's the difference?
A two bolt main block with properly balanced rotating assembly and ARP cap bolts will handle 500HP up to 5500RPM. If you are going to add forced induction , rollers, and expect to rev 6000RPM+ then go with a 4 bolt.
Old 01-14-2016, 11:16 PM
  #26  
stc315
Instructor
 
stc315's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 107
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Most of the opinions here are a good rule of thumb, but I've seen blown alky BBC 2 bolt main last several years in a bracket dragster. It was a early 70's 1 ton pickup block that was ARP studded and freshened up several times a year. Your combo will really dictate when you need 4 bolt. I've got several friends that race jet boats with two bolt main 460 fords with factory main bolts and a girdle on the mains. They're pushing 900+hp naturally aspirated. But ford has huge main bolts compared to Chevy. Personally, I wouldn't go past 550-600hp on a 2 bolt main big block.



Quick Reply: 4 bolt main 2 bolt main



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:40 PM.