When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought a dry ice cleaner out of Germany and have been playing with it for the last couple of weeks. The results are pretty amazing, given I had already spent 40-50 hours with rags brushes and simple green -I still swept up a large dustpan full of dirt and crap blasted off the bottom- it will remove most dirt and bugs etc fairly easily at line of sight within 6" away preferrably 3-4" for heavy grease etc. IF IT WONT FREEZE it just pushes it around... think synthetic lubricants we use today .
One of the things I was after was something which is found on many old original cars... the fine dust which accumulates with standing water and becomes concrete like and sticks around emblems on the reverse of trim. I spent hours with popsicle sticks basically chipping it off the backs of the side vents, the grilles, etc. anywhere water might sit with dust in it and still couldn't get it out of everywhere (I didn't remove the side grates etc as it's a 3 star) The machine is made for vehicles and electronics and operates on as low as 30# / 8cfm and works to 140# / 30cfm. Anything more than 60-80# will begin to pit factory undercoating. On the exterior I ran at 30# and a foot away, it removes wax residue and years of tiny dust particles around the trim like nothing you have seen, around the emblems, the trim, door handles, the rocker trim, hard water stains, buffing residue.
The only place I could see running over 100# is maybe on the trailing arms or front suspension if it were caked with heavy grease and dirt. I couldn't see this area, I stuck the wand up between the bumper and the grille...
I get the dry ice in 1.5mm pellets from my local welding gas/industrial gas supplier ARC3.
It requires a good bit of clean dry air (-40 dew point) to fully utilize you need 30CFM - (7.5-10hp compressor) a 5hp industrial continuous duty will work as well. If the air is not neg 40 dry, your ice line will freeze up into a blob due to moisture.
[QUOTE=firstgenaddict;1607265265]I bought a dry ice cleaner out of Germany and have been playing with it for the last couple of weeks. The results are pretty amazing, given I had already spent 40-50 hours with rags brushes and simple green -I still swept up a large dustpan full of dirt and crap blasted off the bottom- it will remove most dirt and bugs etc fairly easily at line of sight within 6" away preferrably 3-4" for heavy grease etc. IF IT WONT FREEZE it just pushes it around... think synthetic lubricants we use today .
One of the things I was after was something which is found on many old original cars... the fine dust which accumulates with standing water and becomes concrete like and sticks around emblems on the reverse of trim. I spent hours with popsicle sticks basically chipping it off the backs of the side vents, the grilles, etc. anywhere water might sit with dust in it and still couldn't get it out of everywhere (I didn't remove the side grates etc as it's a 3 star) The machine is made for vehicles and electronics and operates on as low as 30# / 8cfm and works to 140# / 30cfm. Anything more than 60-80# will begin to pit factory undercoating. On the exterior I ran at 30# and a foot away, it removes wax residue and years of tiny dust particles around the trim like nothing you have seen, around the emblems, the trim, door handles, the rocker trim, hard water stains, buffing residue.
The only place I could see running over 100# is maybe on the trailing arms or front suspension if it were caked with heavy grease and dirt. I couldn't see this area, I stuck the wand up between the bumper and the grille
can you tell me what you paid for the dry ice machine and its brand
I have been looking at the machines from 3500.00 to 10,000.00 for the past 3 years......
But all I need to do is clean up the under body fiberglass carriage of my 69 and the rest of the frame will be sand blasted as it will be a frame off car
A local guy can dry ice the fiberglass under carriage for about 800.00 to 1000.00 CDN But then again trailing it back and forth and have to find a trailer when I like to do it at home. I do have a 10 or 15 hp compressor hooked to a 100 gallon tank
I do not have a survivor car at all to begin with. It will be a total frame off and same goes for my LT1
Then company I used to work for rebuilt packaging machines on a regular basis. We used dry ice blasting a lot for cleaning the frames and misc parts. Nice part is that there is no sand to clean up. The dry ice just goes away.
I bought a dry ice cleaner out of Germany and have been playing with it for the last couple of weeks. The results are pretty amazing, given I had already spent 40-50 hours with rags brushes and simple green -I still swept up a large dustpan full of dirt and crap blasted off the bottom- it will remove most dirt and bugs etc fairly easily at line of sight within 6" away preferrably 3-4" for heavy grease etc. IF IT WONT FREEZE it just pushes it around... think synthetic lubricants we use today .
One of the things I was after was something which is found on many old original cars... the fine dust which accumulates with standing water and becomes concrete like and sticks around emblems on the reverse of trim. I spent hours with popsicle sticks basically chipping it off the backs of the side vents, the grilles, etc. anywhere water might sit with dust in it and still couldn't get it out of everywhere (I didn't remove the side grates etc as it's a 3 star) The machine is made for vehicles and electronics and operates on as low as 30# / 8cfm and works to 140# / 30cfm. Anything more than 60-80# will begin to pit factory undercoating. On the exterior I ran at 30# and a foot away, it removes wax residue and years of tiny dust particles around the trim like nothing you have seen, around the emblems, the trim, door handles, the rocker trim, hard water stains, buffing residue.
The only place I could see running over 100# is maybe on the trailing arms or front suspension if it were caked with heavy grease and dirt. I couldn't see this area, I stuck the wand up between the bumper and the grille
can you tell me what you paid for the dry ice machine and its brand
I have been looking at the machines from 3500.00 to 10,000.00 for the past 3 years......
But all I need to do is clean up the under body fiberglass carriage of my 69 and the rest of the frame will be sand blasted as it will be a frame off car
A local guy can dry ice the fiberglass under carriage for about 800.00 to 1000.00 CDN But then again trailing it back and forth and have to find a trailer when I like to do it at home. I do have a 10 or 15 hp compressor hooked to a 100 gallon tank
I do not have a survivor car at all to begin with. It will be a total frame off and same goes for my LT1
Thanks, Grant
IT was approx 6k with 4 nozzels- the 3 extra nozzels were almost a grand.
I spent another 1-2k buying everything to ensure 30CFM at the machine - 1/2 ID airline along with large industrial connections and upgrading my dessicant dryer to a 2 stack, with 10lbs of activated alumina in each.
IT is a German manufactured machine with all German parts. DRY ICE ENERGY
Chicago Auto Detailers is the US rep, they are shipped direct from Germany. They reached out to me as soon as I placed the order and were really helpful. If I want to upgrade to a larger machine, Chicago Auto Detailers will also take the old machine in and resell it.
i can get the ice for 75cents a pound 200# min within an hour or less - 4 miles from my place.
That is really great. And to think about all the years I just used gasoline on greasy stuff ! That is quite an investment but I bet you could recoup it if you had the time and energy to clean up other owner's project. Very nice job.
I bought it after I talked to 3 local guys who drove 90 minutes each way and paid between 3-4k each to have their Porsche's done.
I paint corvettes and first gen Camaro's the ease at which it removes residue from wet sanding a car or compound/wax from around trim and emblems is really unreal.
A large body shop which has the clean dry air would save an immense amount of time cleaning up cars before delivering them to a customer with one of these... and also deliver a better product.
Also be really good to clean door jambs and areas before painting so crap was not blown out into the paint.
check out my pair of shoes.
The gray spots are ONE to ONE DTM epoxy so I did not expect it to remove it!
IT was approx 6k with 4 nozzels- the 3 extra nozzels were almost a grand.
I spent another 1-2k buying everything to ensure 30CFM at the machine - 1/2 ID airline along with large industrial connections and upgrading my dessicant dryer to a 2 stack, with 10lbs of activated alumina in each.
IT is a German manufactured machine with all German parts. DRY ICE ENERGY
Chicago Auto Detailers is the US rep, they are shipped direct from Germany. They reached out to me as soon as I placed the order and were really helpful. If I want to upgrade to a larger machine, Chicago Auto Detailers will also take the old machine in and resell it.
i can get the ice for 75cents a pound 200# min within an hour or less - 4 miles from my place.
one more question
if you were under the car, how did you clean the top of the parts close to the body, if there a curved spout to get to the underside top of parts??
As James knows, I had my 71 survivor LT1 dry ice blasted here locally by a shop. After many years of cleaning chassis on survivor cars I would highly recommend dry ice blasting, saves a lot of time cleaning and it's able to reach those hard to get to areas.
As James knows, I had my 71 survivor LT1 dry ice blasted here locally by a shop. After many years of cleaning chassis on survivor cars I would highly recommend dry ice blasting, saves a lot of time cleaning and it's able to reach those hard to get to areas.
When you got your car done. Did the guy have a tool that is curved to get to hard areas facing the body for example the rear of the frame facing upwards to the underneath of the body
The great think is that it won't remove the factory paint finishes or inspection marks
I see the hooked apparatus
Never seen this machine. What make is it and is it Expensive like 10K ????
I am just tinkering if I should look into this or just take the car to the vapor blast guy and have it done for 1000.00
in retro spec I need to do two cars
It depends on how much cleaning you plan on doing. Most shops charge between $100-200 per hour plus the cost of the materials. So for a chassis and engine compartment it ran me about $1000. I have seen prices range from 3k to 50k on the machines.
11-22-2023, 09:53 PM
Dry Ice Cleaning my LT1
