RetroGuy

The brake pedal plunger switch died on my 1970 Vette. Got a new one and tried installing it. TRIED is the key word here. I was attempting this while lying awkwardly on my side with head underneath the dash near pedals, and legs hanging outside the car. I had to have my son sit on the center armrest while he depressed the brake pedal with his left foot, giving me access to the gap behind the metal mount area for the switch. I tried to screw the nut onto the back of the switch but just couldn't do it. I couldn't get both hands on the switch at once to make this possible. The whole area around the brake pedal is tight, not allowing both my arms/hands completely up in there. ANYONE have good advice changing out these very awkwardly located Gawd Damn brake pedal switches???

Bikespace

I just did this (though it might be different in an 80).

Take the seat out, lay with your back on the floor, and your feet in the package shelf.

Better yet, have your son do that.

RetroGuy

Thanks, that's gotta be the solution. Wish I didn't waste 2 hrs on this already.

Rescue Rogers

You could also unbolt the master cylinder and pull it away from the firewall so the pedal pushes easily

1971CorvetteII

Explain it to your kid & just have him get it started = teach him something

ignatz

Before you put this in, who made it and where did you get it? I went through this twice recently. No fun.

Eliredandblack

After you remove the seat place a bench outside the car so you can rest your feet on it (while under the dash). I always lay down a couple of clean drop clothes or moving blankets to help pad my back. Make sure the switch works before installing it.

Mooser

I don't have enough room in my garage and my vette doesn't have enough door but these things sure would have been handy back in the day for some of my other cars


Maybe I still should be keeping my eyes open for a weight machine bench.. or an ironing board or something
M

RetroGuy

IGNATZ, Here you go:

ignatz

Looks identical to what I put in my car. They probably all come from the same manufacturer. I remember thinking what a cheap piece of crap. My first one worked for fifty years. I had to replace the replacement. Hope you have better luck. I don't remember there were any tricks to make the job any easier.

RetroGuy

I just completed the switch replacement job. It was much better (However still awkward) installing it with the driver seat removed. I still hate the engineering design of the switch, with very little room to access it.

Bikespace

Glad that worked out! It's a hateful job, but you'll appreciate having brake lights.

ignatz

Probably too late now, but swapping the seats in and out is a lot easier if you install the track bolts from the bottom. It is then a matter of spinning four nuts down from the top. Best left to next time you have to get under the car.

HOOAH

My friend, if you try to use an ironing board,I believe you'll have more problems than just a sore back from laying in the floorboard.
Terry

RetroGuy

I wish GM designed this switch to be secured in the metal arm by simply pushing-in and twisting to the right, sort of like a rear light bulb. THEN tighten with only one nut accessible from the front of switch, not relying also on the "barely accessible" rear nut.

loup68

You should see the horrible time that you have replacing an original 1968 only "old Chevy truck abortion brake light switch". It bolts to the underside of the firewall and you have to adjust it's two bolts. I would have to lay upside down in my seat and use the GM box that it came in to depress the brake pedal while tightening the bolts! I went through two GM replacements in three years. This was in the seventies.
I went to a junk yard and got a used one of the plunger switches after buying the new 1969-1982 brackets to install the switch. Lou.