The Preferred Years ?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
The Preferred Years ?
Don't want to start a raucous debate , but if i were to shop for a C3 , what years would be rated the best to buy ?
Thanks for any and all input.
Thanks for any and all input.
#2
Burning Brakes
68-72
68-69 Being the best imo
68-69 Being the best imo
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#3
Just another Corvette guy
That's debatable.
While the chrome bumper cars do command more money, the rubber bumper era cars are still excellent Corvettes which can be had at more affordable prices and their prices are also on the rise. So which is better the better buy?
While the chrome bumper cars do command more money, the rubber bumper era cars are still excellent Corvettes which can be had at more affordable prices and their prices are also on the rise. So which is better the better buy?
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#4
Melting Slicks
Early years are known for their 'clean' chrome bumper looks, shorter vehicle, larger and stronger engines. And convertibles.
Mid 70's starting in 73 or 74 ...depending on how you look at things, went to urethane bumper covers front and rear. Weaker engines too. These used to be the less desireable cars but with cheap engine swaps that's changed. Nice are the later convertibles which look long and sleek. They're simple and straight-forward to work on and reliable to own for the most part (sure there are some weaknesses ...which all cars have a few). Starting in 78 and into 79 you have the bubble rear window and the beginnings of a new interior. The cars went on a diet and the frames and suspension became less beefy. It wouldn't bother you if you were just using as a DD.
1980-82 - Here you have the Jay Leno chin cars ...the 'Shovel-nose Vettes'. 1980 is the only car of this era which doesn't have a computer. All these cars are a little lighter still and starting in 81 you get into computer-controlled fuel management (electronic carburetor), but also lock-up transmission. In 82 they introduced EFI and OD transmissions. 81-82's were really reilable, but you know ...they're old cars now, things break. 81's are considered the red-headded stepchild in a way bc most owners don't take the time to learn the CCC (computer controlled carb) system and if something goes awry ..then the knee jerk reaction is to rip it all out. And wiring on 81's is unique too. Something similar to the first gen efi on the 82's but less so. A lot of 81's have been converted to old-school carb's. Corvettes were continuously refined and later ones are great touring cars, but less good on a drag strip.
So, as you can see there's something for every owner. There are fans of each era too. Really it comes down to what you want/like and ultimately the condition of the vehicle you happen to find/test drive. Determine what your 'real' skills (and budget) are and if you just want to drive one, get the best one you can find. They're fun to work on and restore too if that's your thing.
All C3's suffer from the potential of Bird-Cage-Rot. Learn about this. This is where water enters from the T-tops and will/can rot out the windshield frame, maybe A-pillars and lower part of the steel sub-structure. Then you have super-expensive repairs. Any car you look at should be inspected carefully for rot.
Mid 70's starting in 73 or 74 ...depending on how you look at things, went to urethane bumper covers front and rear. Weaker engines too. These used to be the less desireable cars but with cheap engine swaps that's changed. Nice are the later convertibles which look long and sleek. They're simple and straight-forward to work on and reliable to own for the most part (sure there are some weaknesses ...which all cars have a few). Starting in 78 and into 79 you have the bubble rear window and the beginnings of a new interior. The cars went on a diet and the frames and suspension became less beefy. It wouldn't bother you if you were just using as a DD.
1980-82 - Here you have the Jay Leno chin cars ...the 'Shovel-nose Vettes'. 1980 is the only car of this era which doesn't have a computer. All these cars are a little lighter still and starting in 81 you get into computer-controlled fuel management (electronic carburetor), but also lock-up transmission. In 82 they introduced EFI and OD transmissions. 81-82's were really reilable, but you know ...they're old cars now, things break. 81's are considered the red-headded stepchild in a way bc most owners don't take the time to learn the CCC (computer controlled carb) system and if something goes awry ..then the knee jerk reaction is to rip it all out. And wiring on 81's is unique too. Something similar to the first gen efi on the 82's but less so. A lot of 81's have been converted to old-school carb's. Corvettes were continuously refined and later ones are great touring cars, but less good on a drag strip.
So, as you can see there's something for every owner. There are fans of each era too. Really it comes down to what you want/like and ultimately the condition of the vehicle you happen to find/test drive. Determine what your 'real' skills (and budget) are and if you just want to drive one, get the best one you can find. They're fun to work on and restore too if that's your thing.
All C3's suffer from the potential of Bird-Cage-Rot. Learn about this. This is where water enters from the T-tops and will/can rot out the windshield frame, maybe A-pillars and lower part of the steel sub-structure. Then you have super-expensive repairs. Any car you look at should be inspected carefully for rot.
Last edited by Mark G; 11-06-2022 at 12:50 PM.
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#6
Pro
Original/Correct Chrome Bumper cars if you are thinking about future value. Otherwise, a 1980-( my favorite body style), no computer stuff, you can get a stick L-48 or an automatic L-82, no worries about value if (when) you modify it.... Heck you can probably get two of them for the price of a good chrome bumper car... Keep one original and build a hotrod out of the other...
60
60
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#7
Le Mans Master
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If the question was just about preferred years, the answer would be '68-'72 until the end of time...
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#8
Melting Slicks
Three common 'weaknesses' of all C3's are: the brakes, power steering (& steering boxes), and birdcage rusting. Brakes and steering can be ironed out, and if a car has bird cage rot, ...well you can search it out on these forums.
#9
Le Mans Master
Whichever one you like and find in the best shape and price.
#10
Burning Brakes
The bumper cars are always going to be worth more. Their styling is far more attractive (again, my opinion) and have far superior engine options. These make them a better buy to me. If someone likes the look of the rubber cars more, and can live with the lack of power, maybe the rubber cars are a better buy to turn.
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
Just another Corvette guy
Of course it's debatable. OP asked and I gave my opinion/answer.
The bumper cars are always going to be worth more. Their styling is far more attractive (again, my opinion) and have far superior engine options. These make them a better buy to me. If someone likes the look of the rubber cars more, and can live with the lack of power, maybe the rubber cars are a better buy to turn.
The bumper cars are always going to be worth more. Their styling is far more attractive (again, my opinion) and have far superior engine options. These make them a better buy to me. If someone likes the look of the rubber cars more, and can live with the lack of power, maybe the rubber cars are a better buy to turn.
I meant the OP's question was debatable. Not your response.
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Tranz Zam (11-06-2022)
#13
Racer
My son opted for a ‘74. More affordable than the chrome bumper era models. Exempt from CA bi-annual smog checks. Weak engine didn’t matter because he’s swapping it with a built 454, full Ridetech coilover kit with 6 piston Willwood’s.
Looking back it might have made more sense to get a chrome bumper year because he’s dumped do much money into it. Another $10k might have been a better investment-but doing a full resto-mod on a numbers matching chrome bumper model might be frowned upon by some.
Conventional wisdom is to go with ‘68-‘72. The round/blunted rear end (split on ‘74) of the ‘74-‘77 is ugly to me.
His was modded with an 80’s style rear end.
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#16
Drifting
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I had a generous budget and was open to any C3. I opted for the 82 Collector Edition as being the best for me. No regrets.
You really have to go touch and drive each flavor of C3 to answer your question.
If you are looking for an investment that you will eventually sell for what you paid plus money put into it, you should just go ahead and burn that stack of money you are about to spend. You will come out ahead that way!!!😝
You really have to go touch and drive each flavor of C3 to answer your question.
If you are looking for an investment that you will eventually sell for what you paid plus money put into it, you should just go ahead and burn that stack of money you are about to spend. You will come out ahead that way!!!😝
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#18
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The one with a solid frame and birdcage, has a no hit body and excellent paint. You can buy the rest as bolt on parts and build an excellent car.....if you are in CA, then its the same car but 1975 and older
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#19
Race Director
It all depends on what you want to do with the car and how much you are willing to spend, first purchasing it and then restoring or hot rodding it.
Its real easy the drop $60k to $100k into any year C3!
Its real easy the drop $60k to $100k into any year C3!
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#20
Team Owner
As many have stated "best" is subjective.... best investment, best value, best looking, etc.
What is "best" in terms of desirability among majority of collectors/buyers/owners are the '68-'72 years. With that said, '73-'82 MY are great cars, and understand why some prefer those to the chrome bumper cars.
Whichever year you own is the best.
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