Cormac87

Wondering if anyone has come up with an innovative idea when dealing with a stripped screw(s). For example, a Chrome bumper C3, the two screws that hold the sunvisors in place. On a new to me car, I have one that is loose (can’t be tightened). I can go with a larger screw but then the tapered screw head is over sized. I could put something in there like epoxy or feed and wedge small tie wrap straight in, then add the screw. Kinda a BS way. Any simple ideas? Thanks

Cormac87

BTW, I’m referring to the hole being too large, not the screw threads.

Bikespace

Heli-coil? Or JB Weld, drill, and retap.

vbgod1

I have cheated a few by getting a short piece of copper wire, bending it, then sticking it in, touching both sides of the hole. I know it’s a major Bubba thing, but it’s quick, fills the hole with a soft, screw ready material, and quickly available.

Chuck

Mooser

Depending on what was originally there you can buy screws that have a size smaller head on them. GM used them in various places on these cars as well. So like a #10 screw with a #8 countersunk head or #8 with #6 head are semi-common

Not sure if that helps you or not.
M

qtlow

Try taking a sharp center punch and a hammer and dimple the metal all the way around the edge of the hole. That should shrink it enough for the threads to bite again.

doorgunner

This may be too involved:
Buy two chrome or polished stainless Machine Thread screws with the correct size tapered heads.
Drill each original screw-hole for a force-fit aluminum rivet-nut.
Install the correct size threaded rivet-nut into each drilled hole.
Reattach the visor mount with the new machine screws.

67:72

No more involved than a lot of other fixes – and you know this is good to go for a very long time.

Fly skids up!

A small cotter pin does the trick.

GTR1999

All goods repair methods, however, those screw into the upper windshield bar. My concern would be if there is rot there, common area and I have seen them rust separate enough to push up the chrome corners. I would look close to be sure, could be a game changer.

Cormac87

Thanks for sharing your ideas all. GTR1999, Thank you, I will look and see if there are issues.

BLUE1972

Sometimes you can go to a metric screw which is slightly larger.

I've used drywall screws, plastic inserts for non load bearing screws. like the cheap ones for holding a remote to a wall.


If I have to I go to the next larger , I chuck the screw in a drill or my Layth and file down the head. I did this for an old cabinet

STL Zombie Hunter

I bought some of this stuff, referred to me by members on here.
I have not used it yet, but it was for my door sill trim and door panels where the screw holes were too big. It says you can put if over fiberglass or metal, after it hardens you can drill it and / or tap it.

Easy Peasy!

Bondo Metal Reinforced Filler - High Strength Filler, Can be Drilled and Tapped - Will Not Rust, 11.2 Fl oz with 0.37 oz Hardener

jpatrick62

I did the plastic wall anchor method, making sure the anchor was good and tight. Once in, this works like a charm.