LT1 how to tell if it's real.
#1
Burning Brakes
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Location: The Buckle of the Bible Belt. Joplin Mo
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LT1 how to tell if it's real.
https://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/d/...391977096.html
Found this on the local CL today. Find it hard to believe that a true LT1 can be had for this price. Wondering if anyone would like to weigh in on this one, and school me on the LT1 legend.
Found this on the local CL today. Find it hard to believe that a true LT1 can be had for this price. Wondering if anyone would like to weigh in on this one, and school me on the LT1 legend.
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2007
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Starting in 72 you can tell by the vin #, at least that tells if it started life as an Lt1… then check the block casting number, date, and stamp at front of block.
https://www.corvsport.com/1972-corvette-vin/
https://www.corvsport.com/1972-corvette-vin/
Last edited by 68sixspeed; 11-02-2021 at 08:59 PM.
#3
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2006
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You might start looking here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rs-thread.html Odds are you'll get some good direction.
Tach redline 6500
2.5" exhaust
The U joints on the half shafts don't use U bolts, the use, and I can't remember the term for them, 'straps' nut and bolted together.
The SN as mentioned, only for 72
Intake manifold (looks correct in photo)
Holley carb
Only one fuel line
Casting numbers as mentioned.
Distributor not original
Engine info on console, but easily faked
Screw in rocker studs (have to take a rocker cover off to see)
And at least 1/2 dozen more that I can't recall
Good luck!
Like this, but without the nuts.
Tach redline 6500
2.5" exhaust
The U joints on the half shafts don't use U bolts, the use, and I can't remember the term for them, 'straps' nut and bolted together.
The SN as mentioned, only for 72
Intake manifold (looks correct in photo)
Holley carb
Only one fuel line
Casting numbers as mentioned.
Distributor not original
Engine info on console, but easily faked
Screw in rocker studs (have to take a rocker cover off to see)
And at least 1/2 dozen more that I can't recall
Good luck!
Like this, but without the nuts.
Last edited by Dirty Dalton; 11-02-2021 at 10:33 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
DD's list and the L in the vin for 1972 tells you and there has been a lot of LT1 questions like yours in the past, so you can search prior comments.
The price is real good if it has a LT1 engine and no rust damage for starters.If it is close enough to you, take a look.
Ad says it needs paint, look at the rear deck picture; are those bubbles in the paint? Hopefully that is water.
The price is real good if it has a LT1 engine and no rust damage for starters.If it is close enough to you, take a look.
Ad says it needs paint, look at the rear deck picture; are those bubbles in the paint? Hopefully that is water.
#6
Racer
Not enough in the pix to confirm, Winters Alu intake but no factory transistorized ignition, no AIR system, but AIR ex manifols,can't see what should be a Holley choke rtc, but looks tidy enough to pull that price just on what I see that is non LT if in nice shape and drives well.
https://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/d/...391977096.html
Found this on the local CL today. Find it hard to believe that a true LT1 can be had for this price. Wondering if anyone would like to weigh in on this one, and school me on the LT1 legend.
Found this on the local CL today. Find it hard to believe that a true LT1 can be had for this price. Wondering if anyone would like to weigh in on this one, and school me on the LT1 legend.
Last edited by fstntq; 11-03-2021 at 06:11 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Location: The Buckle of the Bible Belt. Joplin Mo
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6500 red line on the tach...Wow. Seems like it's all about what's under the hood. I would assume the original LT1 350s would have a unique crank, rods, pistons and heads. Seems like a crap shoot when buying one, unless you pull the pan and valve covers to see what's inside. Could just be an LT1 block with cheap aftermarket parts inside. Have any members successfully hunted one of these down and found one that's legit.? If you bought one new, that doesn't count.
#10
Melting Slicks
Checking the 5th digit in the VIN is an "L" is the sure test it started life as an original 1972 LT-1. All other items can be faked.
Last edited by PJO; 11-06-2021 at 10:13 PM.
#11
Team Owner
Nothing alarming in that CL ad that would make me run away and it fairly priced. As for paint, not every car needs repainted just because it has a few flaws.