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I've been busy with other projects, but finally got the engine and trans in for the last time! The intake clears the hood no problem, and the headers from a 2nd Gen F-Body LS swap fit quite well.
I still have to finish up the fuel system, and have to rewire the stock LS harness, but it's coming along pretty good.
One thing that I discovered was the heater hose outlets on the water pump stick out directly into the control arm on the passenger side. To solve this I pulled out the stock tubes in the WP and pressed in two small freeze plugs to cap them off. After that I grabbed two barbed fittings and installed them on the top of the WP via drilling and tapping.
Aside from the water pump needing to be modified, everything else fits right in like it was meant to be.
Well after sitting in the corner of the shop for about a year, it's time to work on the Pace Car again. Figured I'd keep the build thread updated, but man there's some sensitive people on here. Got a wrist slapping over some nonsense lol
Started stripping down the paint. It's coming off fairly easy. Not much actual bodywork to do besides fixing the blown out lock cylinder on the passenger door. Anyone have advice on how to tackle this? I was just gonna fill the hole completely with new fiberglass and re-drill it afterwards.
You can fiber glass over the hole where the lock cylinder was and re-drill it but it might be challenging to get the right shape and thickness afterwards. I'd be tempted to see if I could get the piece of the door skin including the lock cylinder opening from a parts car and splice that in. It would be a bigger repair area but you wouldn't have to get the shape of the lock opening just right. Either way you the most important thing is to get the repaired hole in the right place which will require careful measuring. Perhaps you can make a template from the other door to figure out exactly where the lock cylinder hole will need to be.
You can fiber glass over the hole where the lock cylinder was and re-drill it but it might be challenging to get the right shape and thickness afterwards. I'd be tempted to see if I could get the piece of the door skin including the lock cylinder opening from a parts car and splice that in. It would be a bigger repair area but you wouldn't have to get the shape of the lock opening just right. Either way you the most important thing is to get the repaired hole in the right place which will require careful measuring. Perhaps you can make a template from the other door to figure out exactly where the lock cylinder hole will need to be.
I wish I had a spare door laying around. I can probably find one locally, which might be the way to go.
I'm guessing the destroyed lock is the result of the original mirrored tops being stolen. Smashed the lock out and walked away with the tops in mere seconds. It wasn't stored in the nicest city.
Got the door lock opening 90% done. Ended up fiberglassing the broken part into shape, and took a 1/2 socket wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper to make the opening perfectly circular. Now I need to file in the notches that center the lock and hold it in place.
You’re lucky you have an original color you like.
My 73 is repainted the original white.
I really like white cars and trucks, but I just don’t like a C3 in white.
White C8’s awesome.
I’m getting ready to drop mine off at the painter soon and I’m still on the fence between black and British racing green metallic.
You’re lucky you have an original color you like.
My 73 is repainted the original white.
I really like white cars and trucks, but I just don’t like a C3 in white.
White C8’s awesome.
I’m getting ready to drop mine off at the painter soon and I’m still on the fence between black and British racing green metallic.
If it were mine, it would be black. C3s in black look amazing. It really shows off the lines.
09-06-2021, 01:08 PM
