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I just use aluminum cans - a cheap punch and die set plus some scissors my wife keeps in the kitchen that are really sharp...just make sure to put them back!!!
I use the same punch set that Richard shows and shim stock kit from any industrial supplier. I bought the last shim stock kit for about $60 - almost 20 years ago and used it for 100's of rotor dial ins. For doing one car it would cost you about $80 or so for the punch and shim kit. If you do a lot of work they come in handy if it's a one and done maybe not so much. There used to be industrial supply stores open but many are gone now but you can probably find small shim stock packages online or possible at an good parts or hardware store for much less.
All depends on how much runout you have and how you retain the rotors. If just using lug nuts that will change every time you rotate the wheels. Most times the runout is under 008" and shims will work, I have got the runout down to under 001 at times with new rotors and the way I refinish the flanges and hubs. I like anything under 003" so getting to 002 is where I usually end up but I also bolt them on the flange or hub.
I have to ask, this may seem like a stupid question. How does a 1 shim which is placed on the hub onto the all the studs, make any difference? I assume the shim is the same thickness throughout? I always thought you would add individual shims to the studs only to reduce the run out or even it up. For example (hope I explain it clearly) let's say 12 o'clock is 0 degrees and 6 o'clock is .008 degrees out. Meaning it stick out .008. Wouldn't you put shims at the 12 o'clock to bring that closer? I realize you need support at the other studs. I am just trying to keep this simple.
Nope,,, the shims are not the same thickness. They are clocked and tapered. DOH
My question for the OP,, why are you thinking you need shims? Bad brakes?
Nope,,, the shims are not the same thickness. They are clocked and tapered.
This is true.
FYI The rated shim thickness is not the actual difference in the thickness of the shims. What it means is that the rated thickness will translate into the difference towards the outside of the rotor.
So, say a 3mm shim will only be maybe .5mm difference from side to side, but will make the rotor 3mm difference at it's outside edge.
Nope,,, the shims are not the same thickness. They are clocked and tapered. DOH
My question for the OP,, why are you thinking you need shims? Bad brakes?
Have new rotors and rebuilt calipers. My runout has been .005 and 6 on the fronts so far. I do not see having to ever do a pad change again given the amount it's driven so I'lll sweat the little details on this.
Have new rotors and rebuilt calipers. My runout has been .005 and 6 on the fronts so far. I do not see having to ever do a pad change again given the amount it's driven so I'lll sweat the little details on this.
I might check mine just for kicks.. Let us know if it makes a difference. Could you feel it in the pedal?
I'll just throw this out, although it may not be your issue. But it's worth knowing about:
I went through a situation recently where I tried to shim a rotor and I could NOT get the rotor to shim properly no matter where I rotated it or placed the shims .....and I've shimmed many rotors in the past.
Turns out, after a LOT of attempts and head scratching, I determined the new rotors (made in China ..from RockAuto), there's a bevel at the inside edge of the rotor at point where the outer edge (where the outer hub face meets) ...a rounded bevel, the way the rotors were machined. This effectively doesn't allow the rotor to fit all the way onto the hub (due to the bevel). Therefore no matter where I rotated and bolted down the rotor, each time it would lay different on the hub (but never completely fitting 'flush' against the hub face). The original rotors were machined with a square-cut inner edge and the hub fits almost to the very edge.. After a lot of head scratching I reversed the rotor/s (put it on backwards) and the runout per the dial indicator was almost zero!
This is the kind of situation that could throw off a lot of Corvette owners into thinking their rotors are 'off'. So beware. You may need to do some checking/measuring. If you notice this, you can either grind a slight bevel on the outer 1/16" of the hub, or get different rotors that are machine-cut square inside.
Also, I've always just made my own paper shims of various thickness paper to meet the need. Use a little anti-seize on the hub surfaces. I've done it for years. The paper will absorb some of the anti-seize ...and won't 'rot' away. Hasn't for me. I've got some that I removed on some vehicles that I put on a hook and could eventually reuse.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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Originally Posted by TeamTruett
Great video, The video shows an impact gun being used. Are there impact guns that can have the torque set like that?
They make extensions that have the twist consistent with a torque setting. I know my boss had an impact gun that the torque could be run down on, then we would use a wrench to set the final torque. That was 40 years ago thou
04-18-2021, 07:51 AM
Where can I get rotor runout shims?
The part number is the same. Wondering if there are other brands out there?
