Windshield question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Windshield question
Hi all,
During the process of getting my 75 ready for paint, I decided to also remove the windshield and reposition it. I had always wondered why the trim around the windshield sat1/4 of an inch or so off of the glass. In looking at the reasons for it, I have come to the conclusion that the windshield must have been replaced at some point in the past and was done improperly. I have read several threads on the process of installing the windshield, watched video etc. and aside from an DIY install or professional, one question remains in my mind. Everything that I have seen indicates that in order to get the windshield to sit high enough in the frame to meet with the trim, you must use a damming strip. Here is the question. How much overlap should there be with the windshield and the frame? On mine there is no more that 1/4 or so of overlap and I cannot imagine how to get damming strip in there and have space for the adhesive. Is it just possible that my windshield is too narrow? Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
Bryan (BEJ)
During the process of getting my 75 ready for paint, I decided to also remove the windshield and reposition it. I had always wondered why the trim around the windshield sat1/4 of an inch or so off of the glass. In looking at the reasons for it, I have come to the conclusion that the windshield must have been replaced at some point in the past and was done improperly. I have read several threads on the process of installing the windshield, watched video etc. and aside from an DIY install or professional, one question remains in my mind. Everything that I have seen indicates that in order to get the windshield to sit high enough in the frame to meet with the trim, you must use a damming strip. Here is the question. How much overlap should there be with the windshield and the frame? On mine there is no more that 1/4 or so of overlap and I cannot imagine how to get damming strip in there and have space for the adhesive. Is it just possible that my windshield is too narrow? Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
Bryan (BEJ)
#2
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
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That is a good point about a winshield overlapping the frame as much as possible.
Just a thought.
I have wondered if 1/8" diameter plastic or hard rubber spacers which are the correct thickness could be superglued to the frame...maybe at 2" spacing.
The small diameter of the spacers would not affect the sealer doing its job of preventing water leaks.
The spacers would guarantee that the new or re-installed windshield does not sit too close to the frame and does not "sink" into the sealer.
Then the sealer could be applied carefully and the windshield set in place.
The spacers would ensure the stainless trim met the windshield correctly.
Just a thought.
I have wondered if 1/8" diameter plastic or hard rubber spacers which are the correct thickness could be superglued to the frame...maybe at 2" spacing.
The small diameter of the spacers would not affect the sealer doing its job of preventing water leaks.
The spacers would guarantee that the new or re-installed windshield does not sit too close to the frame and does not "sink" into the sealer.
Then the sealer could be applied carefully and the windshield set in place.
The spacers would ensure the stainless trim met the windshield correctly.
Last edited by doorgunner; 03-17-2021 at 12:00 AM.
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BEJ (03-16-2021)
#3
Le Mans Master
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replaced the Original windshield in my 77 about a year ago. used 3/8ths damming foam placed right on the edge of the frame. all good.
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#4
Safety Car
I have wondered if 1/8" diameter plastic or hard rubber spacers which are the correct thickness could be superglued to the frame...maybe at 2" spacing.
The small diameter of the spacers would not affect the sealer doing its job of preventing water leaks.
The spacers would guarantee that the new or re-installed windshield does not sit to close to the frame and does not "sink" into the sealer.
Then the sealer could be applied carefully and the windshield set in place.
The spacers would ensure the stainless trim met the windshield correctly.
The small diameter of the spacers would not affect the sealer doing its job of preventing water leaks.
The spacers would guarantee that the new or re-installed windshield does not sit to close to the frame and does not "sink" into the sealer.
Then the sealer could be applied carefully and the windshield set in place.
The spacers would ensure the stainless trim met the windshield correctly.
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#5
SUPPORT AUTISM
I' am also in the process of swapping my windshield. Where can I find this roll of dam tape. Everywhere that I look, you have to purchase a pack of 12 for close to $100.
#6
/The original dam is about 3/8" tall when upright and 3/16"" wide, it goes on about 3/8" from the edge of the glass then you cut the urethane tube tip AS SHOWN IN THE FISHER BODY MANUAL and lay the bead in and then install. AND yes you should use the blocks.
Here is a piece of an original - which has a cloth backing, this prevents the installer from "stretching" the dam.
Here is a piece of an original - which has a cloth backing, this prevents the installer from "stretching" the dam.
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#7
Nam Labrat
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I guess the O.P. can use the measurements above to determine if his windshield overlaps the frame enough for sealer to hold it without coming loose.
Is it possible for him to trim some off the edge of the dam tape if he needs the extra area for sealant to do its job?
Is it possible for him to trim some off the edge of the dam tape if he needs the extra area for sealant to do its job?
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BEJ (03-17-2021)
#8
Le Mans Master
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#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I appreciate all of the responses and information so far but the original question still stands. How much overlap should there be between windshield and frame?
#10
1/4" should be enough.
1. Set your glass in place with the rubber spacer blocks EXACTLY where you want it
2. then take tape and put two on each A pillar running over onto the windshield -
3. do the same in one place each side from the top rail onto the glass across the top ,
4. then cut the tape with a razor at the glass channel -
5. prep the glass with the dam and urethane
6. then align the tape on the glass with the tape on your A pillars and header bar
7. Push the glass to seal and check to ensure the sealer has no voids
8. IF you see voids use a paint paddle and some additional sealer pumped out onto the paddle to "butter" it up.
James.
1. Set your glass in place with the rubber spacer blocks EXACTLY where you want it
2. then take tape and put two on each A pillar running over onto the windshield -
3. do the same in one place each side from the top rail onto the glass across the top ,
4. then cut the tape with a razor at the glass channel -
5. prep the glass with the dam and urethane
6. then align the tape on the glass with the tape on your A pillars and header bar
7. Push the glass to seal and check to ensure the sealer has no voids
8. IF you see voids use a paint paddle and some additional sealer pumped out onto the paddle to "butter" it up.
James.
Last edited by firstgenaddict; 03-17-2021 at 10:01 AM.
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#11
Melting Slicks
I have seen a video where the guy takes a sharpie and from inside the car traces where the windshield frame meets the glass. Take the glass back out and That should at least give you an idea of how much space you have to work with. Haven’t done it yet on my car but will be watching this thread
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1/4" should be enough.
1. Set your glass in place with the rubber spacer blocks EXACTLY where you want it
2. then take tape and put two on each A pillar running over onto the windshield -
3. do the same in one place each side from the top rail onto the glass across the top ,
4. then cut the tape with a razor at the glass channel -
5. prep the glass with the dam and urethane
6. then align the tape on the glass with the tape on your A pillars and header bar
7. Push the glass to seal and check to ensure the sealer has no voids
8. IF you see voids use a paint paddle and some additional sealer pumped out onto the paddle to "butter" it up.
James.
1. Set your glass in place with the rubber spacer blocks EXACTLY where you want it
2. then take tape and put two on each A pillar running over onto the windshield -
3. do the same in one place each side from the top rail onto the glass across the top ,
4. then cut the tape with a razor at the glass channel -
5. prep the glass with the dam and urethane
6. then align the tape on the glass with the tape on your A pillars and header bar
7. Push the glass to seal and check to ensure the sealer has no voids
8. IF you see voids use a paint paddle and some additional sealer pumped out onto the paddle to "butter" it up.
James.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have seen a video where the guy takes a sharpie and from inside the car traces where the windshield frame meets the glass. Take the glass back out and That should at least give you an idea of how much space you have to work with. Haven’t done it yet on my car but will be watching this thread
#14
Advanced
I just replaced my windshield on my 73 two weeks ago. I found .375 X .25 X 18 Ft. Single side installation foam tape on the gtglass.com website for $7.00. We trial fit the windshield with the tape on it and the checked the fit of the molding and it was perfect. Pulled the glass back off and applied the 3M urethane and stuck it back on the car. No mess inside the car and perfect fit with the molding on.
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#15
SUPPORT AUTISM
I just replaced my windshield on my 73 two weeks ago. I found .375 X .25 X 18 Ft. Single side installation foam tape on the gtglass.com website for $7.00. We trial fit the windshield with the tape on it and the checked the fit of the molding and it was perfect. Pulled the glass back off and applied the 3M urethane and stuck it back on the car. No mess inside the car and perfect fit with the molding on.