Goody

The kickdown linkage is between the two TBI's on the intake, it is bolted to the intake at the rear near the distributor. Should be very obvious with the air cleaner removed completely.
Not moving at all makes me think that maybe the shift linkage is not hooked to the transmission or at the console shift lever.
I suppose there could be something amiss electronically since the ECM controls the converter and has a speed sensor input, but would not expect that in preventing the car from moving at all. Low fluid would.

7T1vette

MY BAD!!! The OP has an '82 C3 which came with THM-700R4. (1st Corvette to have it) DOOOHHHH !

You are correct about the '82 Service Manual having the correct information. There are so many folks who install 700R's into earlier models, I flat missed the fact that this was for an .82 vehicle.

{I just hate it when I do that........}

Buccaneer

It's OK, but this is why I put this below my avatar for so many Non-CFI folks out there. At least you only made an honest mistake. To OP, you REALLY need to get a GM service manual off eBay. Like Fast81 has said, jus do it. Make VERY SMALL corrections (one click at a time) if necessary. If it is shifting sluggish it needs to be adjusted or it WILL burn up in no time. OP, thanks for adding where you are located, it makes it easier when members reply if they know you understand the English language fluently or not.
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Eric P

Again for the last time ( not trying to be disrespectfull ), the TV Cable will not make a car NOT move and of course the Pump has minimum pressure with the TV (aka Throttle Valve) un hooked and I didn't watch the video either but I have built literally hundreds of 700R4's in my time and even more of the 4L60E's

Idan55

so what can make it not moving? Bad rebuild?
this is the first time the has been fired up since the rebuild

leadfoot4

Where was the transmission removed and replaced? If done by a shop, didn't they test drive the car, before giving it back to the owner? And here's a really stupid question....did someone forget to put the driveshaft back in the car? (just asking)

Idan55

car couldn't start because of dead ECM. Had to tow the car from the shop so no, the transmission was not tested yet.
shop is 300 miles away. I'm trying to avoid towing cost.
I was thinking about the driveshaft also lol but it's there

Eric P

Bad torque converter, bad pump , missing thimble filter in the pump , missing filter in the pan , missing oring on the filter , manual valve not connected to the Shift linkage to name a few

does the fluid level change if checked before it’s started and then checked after it’s running ? After sitting overnight the fluid level should be over-full and then it should come down to a normal after it’s started , if not bad pump

Does any gear try try to work or is it like in neutral? Is it locked in place or can the vehicle roll ?

Do you have a 300 pound pressure gauge to test line pressure ?

7T1vette

Fluid level needs to be set and checked with engine running, warmed up, and, ideally, transmission in Drive range with e-brake & chocks keeping car from moving. The difference in fluid level between checking in Drive and checking in Neutral is minor...so I prefer the safer method of checking in Neutral.

When engine shuts down, fluid will flow out of the [rotating] converter and into the sump. And if you check level at that time, it will check significantly 'high'. Start the engine and it will quickly check a bit low, because the fluid is cold and has yet to expand from heating. Let it heat up and the level will (or certainly "should") check the same as when set..

brushmor

Something was messed up for sure with the rebuild/install. Probably the only things easy on your end are the linkage or they forgot to put in enough fluid. Sounds like you did already but make sure to check to see if the lever on the left side of the transmission is moving properly and is easy to figure out. If there's fluid on the dipstick then that's not your problem. If both of those check out then it's time to call the shop that redid the transmission.

Idan55

So quick update:
I bought the car 2 weeks ago, previous owner built the transmission 4 weeks ago. The car drove 0 miles since the rebuild
The transmission shop refuse to accept warranty because it's not transferable. I can't belive it.
I'll check all the steps you guys recommend above this weekend and let you know the results.
Anyone here live is SOUTH FLORIDA? I would like the have good shop for backup

Eric P

Take it to a reputable shop and ask them to find out why a fresh rebuilt transmission won’t move on a new car you just bought . Let them do the rest .

leadfoot4

I agree, but after reading through this discussion, it reminded me of something that happened to me....not that it will help the OP, sadly.....at least I think it won't help.

I had a friend, a former successful drag racer, who rebuilt transmissions as a "side business". All he did, however, was rebuild the tranny. He was not equipped to do any of the R&R, as he was working out of a small garage at his home. After doing a couple rebuilds for me, over a several year period, I took him the 4L60E out of my '96 Z/28. Anyone who has ever re-installed an automatic transmission and torque converter, knows that you have to engage a few things as you slip the converter in place. As the converter engages these various components, you feel what appear to be "detents" as the converter engages. These are often referred as "clicks".

He rebuilt the transmission, gave it back to me, for re-installation. Somehow or other, I didn't generate the proper number of "clicks", as I installed the converter. I was one short, but didn't realize it. I installed the transmission, filled it with fluid, and with the car still on jack stands, fired it up and slipped it into drive. Wheels didn't spin. Shifted into reverse, wheels still didn't spin. Called rebuilder, told him what was going on, he said, "Sounds like you didn't get the converter fully engaged....how many clicks did you get". I told him how many clicks I felt, and he said, "You missed one......and in turn, messed up the pump...pull it back out"........

After all that, maybe the same thing happened to the OP's car.

Buccaneer

IMO, the OP IS getting ripped off big time from the shop that did the rebuild and installation. The car has gone ZERO miles (feet) under its own power. With that said, the "shop" IF reputable in ANY way should make this right. The Horse A** story that they don't honor a warranty to the new owner IS total BS IMO. Again, the car has gone ZERO feet under its own power, so they NEVER even checked out their own work. How the hell can they call it good and then back away from the warranty? Take it to court or at least threaten to sue via a letter from an attorney and see how they react. Note to self...NEVER use that shop EVER again.

I have had to go this route myself for my sons world class mustang fox body trans that was rebuilt three times in less than two months. I had the car towed to a high performance shop that does nothing but Mustangs and they tore the trans apart while I vedio taped the process. Low a behold the trans was NOT put back together correctly and that's why it blow the forth time and the shop which was supposed to be a reputable transmission shop said it was my son beating on the car. The last time it blew, he was only maybe a 1/4 mile from the house and was just leaving the development. So, the beating on the car story was TOTAL BS!

I also had an audio tape of their own admission that they may have messed up and I had the bad part plus the video when I went to the attorney and handed them everything which they were VERY happy to see. The firm I used was referred to me by my sister-in-law, who just happened to be an attorney as well, but out of state and suggested that I use them. The firm owned 19 of the 20 story building they are in and they have lots of horse power at least according to my sister-in-law. My attorney sent them a letter with the intent on suing if they didn't meet my demands. They blew it off until my attorney called them two days later and explained to them what I was prepared to do in the suit and they immediately changed their mind and met ALL my demands, no questions asked. So my point is...It never hurts to ask an attorney and then PRESS TO TEST. Jus sayin'. Good luck with your trans. Oh, and it DIDN'T cost me a dime, that was part of my demands as well...THEY PAY ALL ATTORNEY FEES.

Eric P

I only did “carry in “ transmission overhauls on a few people I knew very well ... if I don’t install it I don’t want to build it . Simply because I want to verify it works properly when done and you can’t do that with a “carry in “ transmission job and that’s probably the case here with the original purchaser just carried the transmission to the shop . I would say the seller is at fault or responsible

Idan55

I will never go back to the shop. the car left with 0 fluids inside!! All Word Transmission in Orlando, FL. Be careful FL members.
Fluid levels are good. Pump is doing her go (tested today). Currently the only position it hold is P.
I will finish the testing tomorrow and probably won't rebuild this trans and buy new transmission.

7T1vette

The shop is not the responsible party, here. The guy who sold him a non-functioning transmission is the culprit in this one. Now, if the PO told him it was a "new build" and that it was warranted by the builder, that would constitute FRAUD. For sure the PO KNEW that the trans did not work; and he KNEW for sure that the warranty would not be transferable.

Go after the seller.

Idan55

This is what seller had replaced: year 86'... can't believe it

ratflinger

My God what a raping! Almost $3900 and no one verified whether it worked or not? The PO would have been better off selling it to you broken.

7T1vette

This situation smells pretty bad....and the stink is coming from the seller AND repair shop. What was the reason that the PO didn't get the problem repaired by the shop? Hmmmm....

Does your state have a "Lemon Law" where a vehicle buyer has 30 days to return a defective product?