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While I am in the process of doing a cooling system flush and refill, now that the radiator is empty, I would like to clean things up a bit and respray a few items. I bought a few cans of radiator black from Eastwood. I figured the shroud/fan/clutch could be done at the same time.
I've searched and found a few posts regarding the removal of the radiator. In some cases it is recommended to remove the hood. Seems like a big job. Mine is a base 350 4-speed, no A/C car with the original aluminum radiator with metal shroud.
How difficult is the removal of the shroud and radiator? Does the hood need to be removed? Is it a one man job? It's something I would like to do, but I don't need to do. If it is a major undertaking it can certainly wait.
Any advice is appreciated.
While I am in the process of doing a cooling system flush and refill, now that the radiator is empty, I would like to clean things up a bit and respray a few items. I bought a few cans of radiator black from Eastwood. I figured the shroud/fan/clutch could be done at the same time.
I've searched and found a few posts regarding the removal of the radiator. In some cases it is recommended to remove the hood. Seems like a big job. Mine is a base 350 4-speed, no A/C car with the original aluminum radiator with metal shroud.
How difficult is the removal of the shroud and radiator? Does the hood need to be removed? Is it a one man job? It's something I would like to do, but I don't need to do. If it is a major undertaking it can certainly wait.
Any advice is appreciated.
Base model w/o A/C should be an easy job.
No need to remove the hood.
Remove the fan, shroud, then radiator.
Hardest part probably getting the lower radiator hose loose from the radiator neck.
One man can do it,, its just easier with a friend helping,, Remember, when you do it, one thing leads to another, and befor you know it, the whole engine bay is out for detailing,, Enjoy,,
One man can do it,, its just easier with a friend helping,, Remember, when you do it, one thing leads to another, and befor you know it, the whole engine bay is out for detailing,, Enjoy,,
Thanks! . . . and yes, I have to limit myself to the radiator/cooling elements for now.
I do have another question about the fan clutch. I heard or read that they should be kept in the orientation of operation so fluid does not leak out. Is this true? It'll make cleaning it up a pain in the a$$. Also, is there any danger in submerging it or using a cleaning solution on it? I'm not that familiar with the mechanics of a fan clutch so I don't want to screw it up.
Why paint everything black when only the radiator was painted? All fiberglass pieces were bare as produced. All the metal surfaces in the engine compartment were painted with satin black 'blackout' paint.
I do have another question about the fan clutch. I heard or read that they should be kept in the orientation of operation so fluid does not leak out. Is this true?
Yes! Keep it upright
Also, is there any danger in submerging it or using a cleaning solution on it? I'm not that familiar with the mechanics of a fan clutch so I don't want to screw it up.
Be gentle with it like nylon brush, toothbrush but it depends on how much grit must be removed. I would even attempt brake cleaner to avoid heavy brushing and keeping it upright.
Be careful when removing the shroud. There are two metal tabs with sharp corners that are bolted from the shroud to frame extensions. If you have the water pump still installed, it will be tight but the shroud can be removed. I'd put a covering on each tab so you do not hit the fins of the rad and cause any damage. A helper is a good idea to help finesse it out. You can also slide some cardboard between the rad and shroud before you remove the shroud to give some protection to the rad fins when removing and installing the shroud.
Be careful when removing the shroud. There are two metal tabs with sharp corners that are bolted from the shroud to frame extensions. If you have the water pump still installed, it will be tight but the shroud can be removed. I'd put a covering on each tab so you do not hit the fins of the rad and cause any damage. A helper is a good idea to help finesse it out. You can also slide some cardboard between the rad and shroud before you remove the shroud to give some protection to the rad fins when removing and installing the shroud.
Good luck
Thanks,
The cardboard is a good tip! I'd hate to cause damage when I'm just trying to spruce things up. Water pump and belts are still installed. Do the belts need to be removed for clearance?
Thanks,
The cardboard is a good tip! I'd hate to cause damage when I'm just trying to spruce things up. Water pump and belts are still installed. Do the belts need to be removed for clearance?
Yes remove belts. Will give you more room to move shroud back and finesse it out. The bottom of the shroud as you know protrudes forward quite a bit. You will need the room.
On my 73, 350, 4 speed, no a/c, no power steering, no power breaks I changed my radiator and to this day I'll say it was the worst radiator replacement I've ever done and I've done many. The issue is the shroud is not simple to remove or even move back toward the engine with the radiator in place. The shroud on the both sides is right up against the upper control arms. So the shroud can't move forward as the radiator is in the way and it won't move backwards as the upper control arms are in the way. In addition the lower portion of the shroud is against the cross member. That coupled with both of the radiator inlets, the upper and lower being on the right side further complicates things. I see you are aware of the need to protect the radiator fins with cardboard, advice, protect both sides, not just the engine side. I didn't need to remove my hood. I removed the fan, belt, and water pump pulley. I also did remove the the upper and middle radiator support bracket bolts, both sides and loosened the lower bolts. This allows the radiator support bracket to tilt toward the front of the car and provided just enough additional room to work the radiator out, at least that worked for me and allowed me to get the radiator out. Once I worked the radiator out I was able to remove the shroud. Again, just giving my experience, hopefully you will have a much easier job than I did but as I said, mine was not an easy job. One final word of caution, pay very close attention to how you tilt / twist / move the radiator to get it out because basically it goes in the same way it came out, you will need to tilt / twist and move it the same way only in reverse of removal. Good luck, Russ
Last edited by rberman999; 10-16-2020 at 10:46 PM.
On my 73, 350, 4 speed, no a/c, no power steering, no power breaks I changed my radiator and to this day I'll say it was the worst radiator replacement I've ever done and I've done many. The issue is the shroud is not simple to remove or even move back toward the engine with the radiator in place. The shroud on the both sides is right up against the upper control arms. So the shroud can't move forward as the radiator is in the way and it won't move backwards as the upper control arms are in the way. In addition the lower portion of the shroud is against the cross member. That coupled with both of the radiator inlets, the upper and lower being on the right side further complicates things. I see you are aware of the need to protect the radiator fins with cardboard, advice, protect both sides, not just the engine side. I didn't need to remove my hood. I removed the fan, belt, and water pump pulley. I also did remove the the upper and middle radiator support bracket bolts, both sides and loosened the lower bolts. This allows the radiator support bracket to tilt toward the front of the car and provided just enough additional room to work the radiator out, at least that worked for me and allowed me to get the radiator out. Once I worked the radiator out I was able to remove the shroud. Again, just giving my experience, hopefully you will have a much easier job than I did but as I said, mine was not an easy job. One final word of caution, pay very close attention to how you tilt / twist / move the radiator to get it out because basically it goes in the same way it came out, you will need to tilt / twist and move it the same way only in reverse of removal. Good luck, Russ
Yes, the plastic shroud is FAR more difficult to remove.
OP states he has the metal shroud which is very simple to remove - unbolt/disconnect the fittings, rotate the shroud 180 degrees and lift it out.
Good point earlier about the sharp edges at the bottom.
Well, I'm digging in and getting this started. Can't say that I'm not nervous about damaging something and getting things back in place where they belong. Just taking my time.
Looks nice...touch up the crossmember with flat black to satin to approximate the original finish. Did you use a beadblaster on the metal parts? Finish looks smooth
Looks nice...touch up the crossmember with flat black to satin to approximate the original finish. Did you use a beadblaster on the metal parts? Finish looks smooth
Thanks. No bead blasting, I'm just sanding everything smooth since nothing is badly pitted. I may take a wire wheel to the shroud.
Hey fastimes, sorry I didn't reply sooner - been gone for a bit.
Some good advice, as usual. I completely redid our '68 cooling system during the early spring. Here are some things that may help (and you probably know them anyway, but............):
* Looks like you already are, but use the fact that you've got all that stuff removed to spruce it up.
* The advice to put cardboard on your radiator is spot on. When you reinstall it, I recommend getting heavy cardboard (or double up normal cardboard box thickness), cutting it to completely cover your radiator (front and back!), use good painters tape (green) to hold it on, and use two people to put it back in place.
* You haven't removed your water pump. I suggest removing it before you reinstall the radiator for a couple of reasons. How old is the current pump? If it's pretty old (or unknown), you should consider rebuilding or replacing it. That way you don't go to all the work and leave a potentially weak link. And having the pump removed makes it much, much easier to fit it all back together. It's an easy thing to do, and gives much more room.
* Make sure you replace all hoses (including heater hoses) and belts. When you cut (don't try to 'pull' a heater hose off the heater core - the inlet/outlet are just brazed to the core. Slit the heater hose and easily work it off) the heater hoses off, check the inlet/outlet for ANY wiggle. If the core is old, you could have a small leak and never know it until it gets larger.
Have fun and show us some pics when it's done! Paul
Hey fastimes, sorry I didn't reply sooner - been gone for a bit.
Some good advice, as usual. I completely redid our '68 cooling system during the early spring. Here are some things that may help (and you probably know them anyway, but............):
* Looks like you already are, but use the fact that you've got all that stuff removed to spruce it up.
* The advice to put cardboard on your radiator is spot on. When you reinstall it, I recommend getting heavy cardboard (or double up normal cardboard box thickness), cutting it to completely cover your radiator (front and back!), use good painters tape (green) to hold it on, and use two people to put it back in place.
* You haven't removed your water pump. I suggest removing it before you reinstall the radiator for a couple of reasons. How old is the current pump? If it's pretty old (or unknown), you should consider rebuilding or replacing it. That way you don't go to all the work and leave a potentially weak link. And having the pump removed makes it much, much easier to fit it all back together. It's an easy thing to do, and gives much more room.
* Make sure you replace all hoses (including heater hoses) and belts. When you cut (don't try to 'pull' a heater hose off the heater core - the inlet/outlet are just brazed to the core. Slit the heater hose and easily work it off) the heater hoses off, check the inlet/outlet for ANY wiggle. If the core is old, you could have a small leak and never know it until it gets larger.
Have fun and show us some pics when it's done! Paul
Paul,
Thank you for the helpful advice. I really appreciate it. Especially with regard to the heater core hose connections. I didn't even think of that!
Just taking my time and learning as I go.
Cheers!
One man can do it,, its just easier with a friend helping,, Remember, when you do it, one thing leads to another, and befor you know it, the whole engine bay is out for detailing,, Enjoy,,
I see how one thing can lead to another! Things are coming along bit by bit. Now that things are out of the way, I would love to clean up/paint the crankshaft pulley and power steering pulley, but I think removal of those would be a task. I'm also afraid of pulley alignment issues should I not get them back where they are now.
A couple of months ago my grandson and I pulled the radiator and shroud to facilitate a cam change. We took the hood off to make things easier and it was the WORST radiator and fan shroud pull I've ever done considering the first radiator pull was on a 36 Ford 5 window coupe in 1965. Getting the shroud out was a PITA to say the least and putting it back in wasn't any easier. Mine is plastic and I ended up notching it to clear the upper hose and the water pump. Runs fine now if I can only keep the brake calipers from leaking. This coming spring I'm going Wilwood all the way around.
10-15-2020, 08:22 AM
Fan - Shroud - Radiator Removal/Reinstallation
Enjoy,, 
Things are coming along bit by bit. Now that things are out of the way, I would love to clean up/paint the crankshaft pulley and power steering pulley, but I think removal of those would be a task. I'm also afraid of pulley alignment issues should I not get them back where they are now.
