Need a new starter. Auto Zone brand okay? Other recommendations?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Need a new starter. Auto Zone brand okay? Other recommendations?
Local mechanic wants $565 to replace the starter on my '69, small block, automatic. I'm going to do it myself, but I could use some advice on which starter to get.
I've done some reading about the newer mini starters but not sure I'm willing to take the risk on something not fitting or having to extra work to make it fit. I've seen prices from $40 to $300 on starters. My car is an evening and weekend cruiser, not hot rodded or driven hard. Thinking I'll just get a remanufactured Duralast starter at Auto Zone for $65 that matches the car's specs.
Also, is there a significant difference between the cast iron tip and the silver tip? I see some starters are only for manual transmissions. If the description doesn't mention 'manual' transmission, I assume that means it will work for an automatic?
Please forgive all the questions. I'm new to this but wanting to learn.
Any tips or suggestions to make the replacement go easy for me would be very much appreciated!
Thanks.
Sean
Last edited by SonOfGaladriel; 10-08-2020 at 11:29 AM.
#2
Autozone starter is fine. Just go with a stock starter for now....I say that from reading your post. Later on, when you get more proficient, then you can start doing mods with mini-starters and whatnot.
ENSURE that you disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting work.
You're going to need to lift the car, ramps or whatnot, make sure you put it in a safe condition prior to getting underneath.
Take a picture of the leads at the starter before disconnecting them.
ENSURE that you disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting work.
You're going to need to lift the car, ramps or whatnot, make sure you put it in a safe condition prior to getting underneath.
Take a picture of the leads at the starter before disconnecting them.
Local mechanic wants $565 to replace the starter on my '69, small block, automatic. I'm going to do it myself, but I could use some advice on which starter to get.
I've done some reading about the newer mini starters but not sure I'm willing to take the risk on something not fitting or having to extra work to make it fit. I've seen prices from $40 to $300 on starters. My car is an evening and weekend cruiser, not hot rodded or driven hard. Thinking I'll just get a remanufactured Duralast starter at Auto Zone for $65 that matches the car's specs.
Also, is there a significant difference between the cast iron tip and the silver tip? Please forgive all the questions. I'm new to this but wanting to learn.
Any tips or suggestions to make the replacement go easy for me would be very much appreciated!
Thanks.
Sean
I've done some reading about the newer mini starters but not sure I'm willing to take the risk on something not fitting or having to extra work to make it fit. I've seen prices from $40 to $300 on starters. My car is an evening and weekend cruiser, not hot rodded or driven hard. Thinking I'll just get a remanufactured Duralast starter at Auto Zone for $65 that matches the car's specs.
Also, is there a significant difference between the cast iron tip and the silver tip? Please forgive all the questions. I'm new to this but wanting to learn.
Any tips or suggestions to make the replacement go easy for me would be very much appreciated!
Thanks.
Sean
Last edited by carriljc; 10-08-2020 at 11:27 AM.
#3
Advanced
Local mechanic wants $565 to replace the starter on my '69, small block, automatic. I'm going to do it myself, but I could use some advice on which starter to get.
I've done some reading about the newer mini starters but not sure I'm willing to take the risk on something not fitting or having to extra work to make it fit. I've seen prices from $40 to $300 on starters. My car is an evening and weekend cruiser, not hot rodded or driven hard. Thinking I'll just get a remanufactured Duralast starter at Auto Zone for $65 that matches the car's specs.
Also, is there a significant difference between the cast iron tip and the silver tip? Please forgive all the questions. I'm new to this but wanting to learn.
Any tips or suggestions to make the replacement go easy for me would be very much appreciated!
Thanks.
Sean
I've done some reading about the newer mini starters but not sure I'm willing to take the risk on something not fitting or having to extra work to make it fit. I've seen prices from $40 to $300 on starters. My car is an evening and weekend cruiser, not hot rodded or driven hard. Thinking I'll just get a remanufactured Duralast starter at Auto Zone for $65 that matches the car's specs.
Also, is there a significant difference between the cast iron tip and the silver tip? Please forgive all the questions. I'm new to this but wanting to learn.
Any tips or suggestions to make the replacement go easy for me would be very much appreciated!
Thanks.
Sean
#4
I bought a $50 "ministarter" and the separately required 10mm shank bolts and it went right in. SDR0031-L. This is the unit GM has been using as OEM since the 90's. No issues with fitment or installation.
#5
Pro
Or for the price of a new set of brushes, a bit of emery cloth to clean the commutator, and a new bendix you could rebuild your own. And also replace the solenoid. If you just are going to replace the starter and solenoid and not in a big hurry check Rock Auto
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Autozone starter is fine. Just go with a stock starter for now....I say that from reading your post. Later on, when you get more proficient, then you can start doing mods with mini-starters and whatnot.
ENSURE that you disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting work.
You're going to need to lift the car, ramps or whatnot, make sure you put it in a safe condition prior to getting underneath.
Take a picture of the leads at the starter before disconnecting them.
ENSURE that you disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting work.
You're going to need to lift the car, ramps or whatnot, make sure you put it in a safe condition prior to getting underneath.
Take a picture of the leads at the starter before disconnecting them.
#7
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2016
Location: Dutchess county New York
Posts: 750
Received 295 Likes
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Local mechanic wants $565 to replace the starter on my '69, small block, automatic. I'm going to do it myself, but I could use some advice on which starter to get.
I've done some reading about the newer mini starters but not sure I'm willing to take the risk on something not fitting or having to extra work to make it fit. I've seen prices from $40 to $300 on starters. My car is an evening and weekend cruiser, not hot rodded or driven hard. Thinking I'll just get a remanufactured Duralast starter at Auto Zone for $65 that matches the car's specs.
Also, is there a significant difference between the cast iron tip and the silver tip? I see some starters are only for manual transmissions. If the description doesn't mention 'manual' transmission, I assume that means it will work for an automatic?
Please forgive all the questions. I'm new to this but wanting to learn.
Any tips or suggestions to make the replacement go easy for me would be very much appreciated!
Thanks.
Sean
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip, but rebuild is more than I have time to tackle right now. I'm hoping for a simple swap, old for new.
#10
Is this the right one?
https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical.../dp/B0081S9L1C
https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical.../dp/B0081S9L1C
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...031-L&_sacat=0
I see the amazon unit comes with the bolts so price is about the same as the bolts purchased separately are about $8.
Notice the unit pictured has the staggered mounting holes. You need to verify that your block has strait or staggered and buy appropriately. Your engine should also have the 168 tooth flywheel if OEM but verify before purchase
Last edited by Dynra Rockets; 10-08-2020 at 11:50 AM.
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#11
Racer
Thread Starter
That is the part number I used. I bought on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...031-L&_sacat=0
I see the amazon unit comes with the bolts so price is about the same as the bolts purchased separately are about $8.
Notice the unit pictured has the staggered mounting holes. You need to verify that your block has strait or staggered and buy appropriately. Your engine should also have the 168 tooth flywheel if OEM but verify before purchase
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...031-L&_sacat=0
I see the amazon unit comes with the bolts so price is about the same as the bolts purchased separately are about $8.
Notice the unit pictured has the staggered mounting holes. You need to verify that your block has strait or staggered and buy appropriately. Your engine should also have the 168 tooth flywheel if OEM but verify before purchase
#12
Le Mans Master
I would check if there is a local rebuilder in your area. I have had my starters and alts rebuilt locally. The shop I use replaces the bearings, brushes and solenoids and bead blasts the case for less than $100. The alts are the same price with new electronics as well. Turn around time is same day or next. The stuff from the discount stores may have been refurbished many many times. Most don't replace bearings etc. Jerry
#13
Melting Slicks
Hey SonofGaladriel: beautiful car!!!
Some good advice here. I would add one thought......... When you pull the old starter, there is a chance that it might be the original. If it is, I would suggest that you keep it and just pay the core charge. If it's the original, you might want to rebuild it when you have time. Check the solenoid too.........
Have fun! Paul
Some good advice here. I would add one thought......... When you pull the old starter, there is a chance that it might be the original. If it is, I would suggest that you keep it and just pay the core charge. If it's the original, you might want to rebuild it when you have time. Check the solenoid too.........
Have fun! Paul
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I would check if there is a local rebuilder in your area. I have had my starters and alts rebuilt locally. The shop I use replaces the bearings, brushes and solenoids and bead blasts the case for less than $100. The alts are the same price with new electronics as well. Turn around time is same day or next. The stuff from the discount stores may have been refurbished many many times. Most don't replace bearings etc. Jerry
#17
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
Posts: 6,922
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1,642 Posts
If you go through Summit, there is no core charge and free shpg. I just swapped mine out this summer. Went with a Power Master, for about $120. Gobs of torque and came with the high heat ceramic, solenoid terminal cap. Those can handle more exhaust heat than the cheap black units.
Tag your wires with masking tape and a Sharpie for location purposes later.
You may not have enough "hand" room to disconnect the wire harness before dropping the starter. So, have all your sockets, nut drivers ready to unhook the wires while still holding on to a unbolted starter.
I agree with others that if its a old GM Delco to hang on to it for future rebuild someday.
Tag your wires with masking tape and a Sharpie for location purposes later.
You may not have enough "hand" room to disconnect the wire harness before dropping the starter. So, have all your sockets, nut drivers ready to unhook the wires while still holding on to a unbolted starter.
I agree with others that if its a old GM Delco to hang on to it for future rebuild someday.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
If you go through Summit, there is no core charge and free shpg. I just swapped mine out this summer. Went with a Power Master, for about $120. Gobs of torque and came with the high heat ceramic, solenoid terminal cap. Those can handle more exhaust heat than the cheap black units.
Tag your wires with masking tape and a Sharpie for location purposes later.
You may not have enough "hand" room to disconnect the wire harness before dropping the starter. So, have all your sockets, nut drivers ready to unhook the wires while still holding on to a unbolted starter.
I agree with others that if its a old GM Delco to hang on to it for future rebuild someday.
Tag your wires with masking tape and a Sharpie for location purposes later.
You may not have enough "hand" room to disconnect the wire harness before dropping the starter. So, have all your sockets, nut drivers ready to unhook the wires while still holding on to a unbolted starter.
I agree with others that if its a old GM Delco to hang on to it for future rebuild someday.
#20