Serpentine, R4 to Sanden, anyone done it?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Serpentine, R4 to Sanden, anyone done it?
The attached pics are my serpentine conversion (disregard temporary fuel lines and electric lines, this is setup only, I'll clean/add hard lines, etc later)
The serpentine setup is from 1989 or 1990 Caprice. (this is important detail...its NOT a serp kit from an s10/Blazer/truck) I don't know if the serpentine setup is the same as an F-body serpentine kit from the same era.
I'm almost to the point of finishing VintageAir install.
Here's my question: Has anyone that HAS done the serpentine conversion AND successfully converted from an R4 AC compressor to a Sanden compressor?
I suspect given the serpentine brackets I have (from the Caprice mentioned above) that the conversion isn't possible due to clearance with the valve cover. I'd rather use a Sanden, but if i have to I'll use an R4 until some later date where i can change out serpentine brackets. For now, I'm curious if anyone was able to use brackets (such Dirty Dingo) to adapt Sanden compressor to serp kit.
The serpentine setup is from 1989 or 1990 Caprice. (this is important detail...its NOT a serp kit from an s10/Blazer/truck) I don't know if the serpentine setup is the same as an F-body serpentine kit from the same era.
I'm almost to the point of finishing VintageAir install.
Here's my question: Has anyone that HAS done the serpentine conversion AND successfully converted from an R4 AC compressor to a Sanden compressor?
I suspect given the serpentine brackets I have (from the Caprice mentioned above) that the conversion isn't possible due to clearance with the valve cover. I'd rather use a Sanden, but if i have to I'll use an R4 until some later date where i can change out serpentine brackets. For now, I'm curious if anyone was able to use brackets (such Dirty Dingo) to adapt Sanden compressor to serp kit.
#2
Team Owner
Are you buying a conversion kit from a vendor or are you considering just swapping out the Sanden compressor for the old R-4 unit? The Sanden compressor is designed for R-134a refrigerant; the R-4 is designed for R-12 refrigerant. There are several ISSUES related to which compressor you are using and with what refrigerant.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you @7T1vette , I'm installing a brand new VintageAir system and using R134a. I have removed all the original hvac stuff from my 1974 coupe (stock AC car) I'm hoping to use a Sanden 4711 (SD 7 H15) compressor. I'm trying to avoid the pancake (radial) R4 compressor if i can. I've researched a bracket conversion kit that Dirty Dingo sells that enables converting an sbc serpentine set up to be able to use a Sanden compressor. Let me know if you forsee any issue with this set up in terms of refrigerant.
#4
Melting Slicks
I'm in the process of an engine/transmission swap in my '73. As part of the project, I installed a GM serpentine kit - this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...make/chevrolet
I chose the kit without the AC compressor as I already had a Sanden compressor with my VA installation and wanted to keep it. I bought the Dirty Dingo bracket kit to convert to the Sanden. I ended up buying a new Sanden compressor because it was about the same cost as trying to convert mine from a v-belt pulley/clutch to a serpentine pulley/clutch (6 groove pulley/clutch assemblies are hard to find and pricey). I had to buy a compressor with a 7 groove pulley. I couldn't find one with a 6 groove pulley. Vintage Air told me the 7 groove pulley would work as 6 of the grooves would line up properly with the rest of the serpentine drive system. They were right.
When mounting the compressor, I discovered a major issue. I couldn't mount the compressor in any orientation to avoid interference of some kind with the side mounted ports. Turned one way and they interfered with the valve cover. Turned the other way and the hood wouldn't close. You can't turn the compressor upside down as the oil fill port has to be above horizontal. I discovered Vintage Air offered a compressor with a 7 groove pulley that had rear exit ports instead of side exit ports. I was going to return my compressor and pick up the rear exit port model but then I found a company that offered a new compressor head to convert my compressor from side ports to rear exit ports. That turned out to be cheaper than paying shipping both ways to return one compressor and buy another.
After all that, the new compressor is installed and lines up properly. I still have to source new hoses once I get the car up and running. I think my setup is going to work but I do have very little clearance to the hood (about 3/8" from the top of the compressor to the hood.
DC
I chose the kit without the AC compressor as I already had a Sanden compressor with my VA installation and wanted to keep it. I bought the Dirty Dingo bracket kit to convert to the Sanden. I ended up buying a new Sanden compressor because it was about the same cost as trying to convert mine from a v-belt pulley/clutch to a serpentine pulley/clutch (6 groove pulley/clutch assemblies are hard to find and pricey). I had to buy a compressor with a 7 groove pulley. I couldn't find one with a 6 groove pulley. Vintage Air told me the 7 groove pulley would work as 6 of the grooves would line up properly with the rest of the serpentine drive system. They were right.
When mounting the compressor, I discovered a major issue. I couldn't mount the compressor in any orientation to avoid interference of some kind with the side mounted ports. Turned one way and they interfered with the valve cover. Turned the other way and the hood wouldn't close. You can't turn the compressor upside down as the oil fill port has to be above horizontal. I discovered Vintage Air offered a compressor with a 7 groove pulley that had rear exit ports instead of side exit ports. I was going to return my compressor and pick up the rear exit port model but then I found a company that offered a new compressor head to convert my compressor from side ports to rear exit ports. That turned out to be cheaper than paying shipping both ways to return one compressor and buy another.
After all that, the new compressor is installed and lines up properly. I still have to source new hoses once I get the car up and running. I think my setup is going to work but I do have very little clearance to the hood (about 3/8" from the top of the compressor to the hood.
DC
Last edited by DC3; 07-29-2020 at 03:15 PM.
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Cool bean (07-29-2020)
#5
Melting Slicks
OP, Nice work!
Per the 89 Caprice, parts, mind expanding in greater detail what parts you needed to swap over, besides the obvious brackets and idlers? existing water pump Ok?, what fan clutch did you use? Other parts you weren't expecting would/wouldn't fit?
Thanks!
.
Per the 89 Caprice, parts, mind expanding in greater detail what parts you needed to swap over, besides the obvious brackets and idlers? existing water pump Ok?, what fan clutch did you use? Other parts you weren't expecting would/wouldn't fit?
Thanks!
.
Last edited by Mark G; 07-29-2020 at 03:18 PM.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you @DC3 , this is super helpful! If you had it to do over, do you know what precise compressor part number you would get? Short of any guidance on NOT to do so, i plan to proceed with a Sanden 4711 (SD7 H15). It has ports on TOP of the compressor that the hoses from the VintageAir kit will connect directly to. But I did not do any test fitting yet. (Dirty Dingo brackets are ordered.)
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
@Mark G There are other serpentine conversion threads that go into more detail. But here's the short version: (If you want more info I suggest starting another thread so we don't go too far off topic)
- need reverse rotation water pump. Not only that, need one that has boss to attach heater hose to.
- If stock heads, make sure heads are drilled for accessories. If aluminum aftermarket, they're most likely already drilled.
- I did Borgeson conversion: need ps pump that has low pressure line tuned UP, not down. (Stock Caprice pump works for this.) If doing hydraboost, get pump that has two return lines.
- No clutch fan for serp conversion; need to convert to electric fans.
- AC serp bracket needs a little shaving to fit
- No smog pump, just deleted it.
- Alternator needs disassembly to reclock so stud does not short against valve cover. Also need to convert to single wire alt. (In my case, I changed interior gauges to Autometer gauges and went with a volt meter, so didn't need anmeter wiring.
- upper radiator hose is custom.
- lower radiator hose is stock, but trimmed to fit.
Last edited by Cool bean; 07-29-2020 at 08:40 PM.
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Mark G (07-31-2020)
#8
Melting Slicks
Thank you @DC3 , this is super helpful! If you had it to do over, do you know what precise compressor part number you would get? Short of any guidance on NOT to do so, i plan to proceed with a Sanden 4711 (SD7 H15). It has ports on TOP of the compressor that the hoses from the VintageAir kit will connect directly to. But I did not do any test fitting yet. (Dirty Dingo brackets are ordered.)
This is the compressor I bought originally that would not work with the side mounted ports due to clearance issues: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-04808-vma
This is the head I bought to convert it to rear exit ports: https://nostalgicac.com/compressors/...head-back.html
This is the compressor Vintage Air recommended with the rear exit ports:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-047002-mur
I researched using a 7 series compressor and decided it either wouldn't work or was too much trouble - can't remember. I think the 7 series is larger. Unless your hood or serpentine AC bracket is much different from mine, I'm not sure how you can run side ports and keep the compressor in the correct orientation. Maybe the 7 series doesn't have the same limitations.
You might have to discuss using a 7 series compressor with VA's tech support. They were very helpful with my situation.
By the way, Powermaster sells an alternator with a side mounted stud so you don't have to clock it. I went that route as it allowed me to use the brace that goes from the back of the alternator to the exhaust header bolt.
DC
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Cool bean (07-29-2020)
#9
Team Owner
I chose to go with a conversion kit from ClassicAutoAir. Kept everything in the stock A/C system except the compressor (new Sanden), hoses, VIR (replacement tube and switch), filter/drier, and new mounting hardware for the compressor. The kit is complete your your C3 by specific year and engine. Empty system of R-12, clean/purge mineral oil with spray cleaner, assemble new components, vacuum it down and charge with 134a. Done. And the stock system works exactly as it did before the change. Also about 1/2 the cost of the total VA system (and a LOT less grief).
If you are no longer going to use any of the original system, you don't need to do any cleaning/purging. But, the new R-134a system will use PAG oil, instead of mineral oil. Follow all the directions provided by VA. I just put a complete VA system in a '65 Pontiac Grand Prix...but it was not an A/C car from the factory. Still a LOT of work and you need to CAREFULLY follow all the requirements for installation.
Good luck.
If you are no longer going to use any of the original system, you don't need to do any cleaning/purging. But, the new R-134a system will use PAG oil, instead of mineral oil. Follow all the directions provided by VA. I just put a complete VA system in a '65 Pontiac Grand Prix...but it was not an A/C car from the factory. Still a LOT of work and you need to CAREFULLY follow all the requirements for installation.
Good luck.
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Cool bean (07-29-2020)
#10
Burning Brakes
I've done it and can be done on the cheap actually. You didn't say what type of Sanden but I'm running a SD7B10. You can get a kit from kwikperf. You can use the truck serp brackets with an adapter from vintage air or you can use F-body and make an adapter. Mine is a hybrid of F-body and kwikperf brackets,
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Cool bean (02-09-2021)
#11
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '09
I purchased my bracket from VA about 6 years ago!! And yes, that's the temperature blowing thru the vent back then in 2016 and thats the same temp it blows thru now in 2020! Cant go wrong with VA!! ...IMO
#12
The attached pics are my serpentine conversion (disregard temporary fuel lines and electric lines, this is setup only, I'll clean/add hard lines, etc later)
The serpentine setup is from 1989 or 1990 Caprice. (this is important detail...its NOT a serp kit from an s10/Blazer/truck) I don't know if the serpentine setup is the same as an F-body serpentine kit from the same era.
I'm almost to the point of finishing VintageAir install.
Here's my question: Has anyone that HAS done the serpentine conversion AND successfully converted from an R4 AC compressor to a Sanden compressor?
I suspect given the serpentine brackets I have (from the Caprice mentioned above) that the conversion isn't possible due to clearance with the valve cover. I'd rather use a Sanden, but if i have to I'll use an R4 until some later date where i can change out serpentine brackets. For now, I'm curious if anyone was able to use brackets (such Dirty Dingo) to adapt Sanden compressor to serp kit.
The serpentine setup is from 1989 or 1990 Caprice. (this is important detail...its NOT a serp kit from an s10/Blazer/truck) I don't know if the serpentine setup is the same as an F-body serpentine kit from the same era.
I'm almost to the point of finishing VintageAir install.
Here's my question: Has anyone that HAS done the serpentine conversion AND successfully converted from an R4 AC compressor to a Sanden compressor?
I suspect given the serpentine brackets I have (from the Caprice mentioned above) that the conversion isn't possible due to clearance with the valve cover. I'd rather use a Sanden, but if i have to I'll use an R4 until some later date where i can change out serpentine brackets. For now, I'm curious if anyone was able to use brackets (such Dirty Dingo) to adapt Sanden compressor to serp kit.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
#14
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St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Here's my setup, all off a F body, 91 Z-28 I believe. Anyway ordered the water pump for the Z but the alt & PS pump are from a 2004 GMC 2500 Sierra. Dirty Dingo supplied the AC mount mods
Last edited by ratflinger; 06-11-2021 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Corrected year model for future reference
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Cool bean (07-30-2020)
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
@redcruz1120 and @ratflinger ! I can't tell from the pictures, but would the rear ports clear tall valve covers?
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Cool bean (07-31-2020)
#19
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St. Jude Donor '11, '17
@redcruz1120 and @ratflinger ! I can't tell from the pictures, but would the rear ports clear tall valve covers?
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Cool bean (08-01-2020)
#20
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St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Does not matter, alternator does not care about the engine, neither does the PS pump. The alt puts out enough juice to weld with and the PS pump has 2 returns since a 2500 has a hydrobooster and so does my 79. Best thing is that they both came setup for serpentine.